earlthegoat2

Thanks Uwe for posting that picture to better clarify what I was describing. When first learning about sewing machines, threading them exactly as instructed is always hammered home. Eventually you learn more about what is going on with the machines and you figure out some tweaks that aren’t exactly taught or recommended but they work better in spite of that. Its an interesting process.

The thread was properly seated in the tensioner and as the sewing commenced it rode up and out of the tensioning discs over time. I duplicated the problem several times. Unfortunately the video does not include the audible "click" as the tensioner discs are freed from the thread. It is obvious from the example material that the problem manifested as the sewing continued. I am interested as to why it happened now and not when I first got the machine. Was the tensioner worn out or damaged? I don't know.

Here is a half arsed video I made documenting the problem. This was a tough one to diagnose because whenever I would get stitch problems I would hit the knee lift and that would end up letting the thread back into the tensioner and thus allowing the problem to occur with at least predictable frequency. I was stymied for a bit by the fact that I could remove the material and restart the sewing process and the problem would essentially reset. Tricky.

Ok, I think I have it figured out. Im going to give it a good test to make sure yet and I will get back with the results. Here is an older thread where there was a similar problem with a similar machine. In this instance it was a Juki DNU-241 (non-H). Even though in that thread there were some other things going on with that machine, IMO the problem was never addressed to completion.

Got this machine a few months ago used and it sewed great for about a month. Then this started happening. Sews good then starts making loops on the bottom. Like the take up is not taking up all the way. In the beginning I fiddled with the bobbin tension and switched to better quality thread and that solved the problem temporarily. Now it is doing this constantly and is essentially unusable. I have tried different needles as well as rethreading. I have the manual and I have followed it. I have tried to increase tension and all that basic stuff.

Very cool. The comment he made towards the beginning of the video about the broken pulley being made out of zinc and having been pleased with the service life of it before it broke, made me think maybe he wasn't too pleased since the new one is made from an aluminum billet. That one should last slightly longer than forever.

I was eyeballing that machine too. In the end I decided to pass on it as well before even going to take a look. Too far away unless I knew the price was right but the ad only states to make an offer. Since the pedigree of the machine is in question, I don't know what to ask for it except for my standard starting bid of 100 bucks.

Sorry how long it took but yes this is still for sale

Entire cutting edge of the blade is 6”

HF Osborne Champion Lap Skiver and Splitting Machine. Has an incorrect screw or two but this is a fully functioning splitter. I used it to split down the buckle ends of belts. I’m sure the blade needs some touching up. Quality vintage tool. $200 shipped

I know there are flammable and non flammable varieties of Weldwood. That is one difference in can color. I have tried: Masters, Weldwood (flammable),Old Barge, New Barge, Old Tandy, New Tandy, 3M Scotchweld 4475, The one that worked to my satisfaction was the Old Tandy and Old Barge. The others just work. They work but not like the old ones. The old ones made a permanent bond the second they touched each other. The new ones can be worked around a little. This can be a good thing but I like the confidence that comes with the old style adhesion. I use Masters and occasionally 3M Scotchweld now. The 4475 variety is their product for leather. The Scotchweld line are known as "Plastic Adhesives". Another general note: If it says not for sale in California, then it will work about as good as anything that is available. The 4475 carries that label. It gives new meaning to the term expensive. It costs 20 dollars for 5oz. I only use it sparingly where not a lot of flex will be needed in the finished product. I have no doubt it would work for those areas though. Im going to try Pliobond next. They have a specific product for porous surfaces.

Thanks for the help sir. This worked exactly as explained

So in an effort to see just what my machine could handle....I was making something....I put a full 3/4" of hard rolled horse hide under the foot and proceeded to sew. It really did not want to punch through the leather. I replaced the needle as the one I was using did have a burr in the tip. Still it stalled out about half way through. I completed the project by helping the machine along using my hand on the flywheel. The point is the tensioning system on the speed reducer is not good. I cannot seem to get it tight enough for the very beginning and now it has shown me that I was right all along. When I tried using a pry bar on it it almost wanted to strip the lag screws from the table bottom. Should I drill some holes and through bolt it and then use the pry bar? The motor has a nice positive tensioning system on it with a threaded rod. It would be nice if there was the same for the reducer. The machine is a CB4500 running a 25 needle and 277 lubed thread.

Very cool. Thank you all for the insights.

Uwe, I am not 100% sure what you mean. I am currently using the standard smooth inner presser foot that came with the machine. It is a Cowboy 4500. Are you saying a different foot can help to keep the finished stitches recessed? Also I am currently using an S point, size 25 needle with 277 thread. Maybe I will try going down to a 24 size as well. I suppose that would not help with the stiches being more recessed but right now I think the holes look too big in my finished products.

I have looked at the Schmetz and Groz needle guides and think I like the diamond (DI) type point. I like the idea of the stitches being recessed as much as possible. I already cut a stitch groove but I also use a lot of horse hide. This would serve dual purpose as well for some items I make that are a full 3/4" thick. That is 5 layers of hard rolled horse butt. I can tell it taxes the CB4500 but there have been no issues so far with the triangular point needles I am using now. The DI point claims to be able to penetrate the thicker stacks easier. Primarily it would be used for double thickness gun belts though. What are your suggestions and/or what do you all use?

A trick from the gunsmithing world is to use a penetrant called Kroil. I see you got it out but I am adding this for future searches. Put the Kroil on and then wait overnight. It will be much freer the next day. You can get Kroil from Midway USA and McMaster-Carr.

Those videos just took a great deal of the black magic out of how a sewing machine works. Great job.

What is the underfoot capacity of this machine?

PM at you.

I kind of thought it was a bit high for a unmarked machine. I am in the market for a good machine now and it does not have to be a bottom feeder deal. I just want something I can pick up and not have to pay for shipping. I will be making a trip north through Toledo the week before Thanksgiving and will stop by Bob's on the way through and maybe pick something up then.

Ad says it will sew up to an inch and provided a picture of the foot over 5 layers of 7-8oz veg tanned and a penny on end next to that. So it apparently can sew close to the diameter of a penny. Probably has a 7/8 inch lift in actuality though so it is probably closer to a 3500 than a 3200