tielz

I have 3 pieces of side leather for sale. First is a Muir McDonald tooling side measuring around 8' long and 15" deep. The belly is a separate cut of long pieces by about 4" each. There are also some scraps. $25. plus shipping Next is a Tandy or Hermann Oak (cannot remember!) tooling side which is also about 8' long and 19" deep. This is smooth and lighter natural than the Muir hide. $25. plus shipping Last is a John Whites England bridle butt in Newmarket. It is about 70" long and 17" deep. Bridle weight of 3.5 to 4mm. $90. plus shipping Will sell as a lot for $125. plus shipping. PM if interested. More photos available via email.

Thank you. I put a call in to Toledo and I will go look at the Leather Machine Co. site now. Lori

I am trying to find a machine to use in my home. I am confused as ever on what is out there and what would be best for me. I make English bridles on a small scale, all hand sewn. I use England tanned bridle butts in 8-9oz weight for most items. I would like to be able to sew triple stitched, high quality halters and working dog collars. I would also like to apply the fancy stitching on raised brows and nosebands. Used is fine. Solid and well made is more important than fancy and new. I would love a hand cranked or treadle machine, but I am not set on it. Space in this old home is limited and electrical outlets are even more limited. A table top machine is fine. I need slow. I am not really comfortable with sewing fast. I have no idea which thread to use with a machine. I am used to sewing with 3 cord waxed Irish linen thread. I am not a high production shop, so the investment will not be paying for itself. I want to stay under 1k if possible. I may stretch it to under 2k if I can purchase on credit. I see some nice machines on Ebay, but not really knowing what I need or what the quality is, I have decided not to go the route of auctions or Craigslist. I was burned badly back in the 90s and purchased an expensive rebuilt treadle converted to electric machine that turned out to be not usable so I am very afraid to venture out without help. I am in PA near Wheeling WV if that helps. Thank you in advance. Lori

I am here mostly to learn, but just want to say a quick hello from southwest PA. I grew up in horse country northern VA and most all of my work was done years ago. I have made and repaired both Western and English tack in the past 20 years on a small scale. I began to concentrate on my real passion, English strapgoods, after 2000 thanks to the suppliers on the internet. I had to make several moves after 2006, so most everything stayed packed in boxes until recently. Now I am settled on a dairy and getting ready to begin working again. Lori

Exactly. "Cowboy" itself is the English translation of Vaquero. Your holster is very, very nice! My primary work is making English strap goods. I have pricking irons that vary from 9 to 12 stitches per inch that are angled rather than straight that will give you the start of the holes you will be stitching through. I use the two needle method using waxed linen thread, making sure each stitch starts and ends on the same side of the holes to give a uniform and smooth look. Over shorter areas like when I stitch the ends of the lacing to the reins, I will just use a backstitch.

Thank you for sharing this wonderful tutorial!

Western tack actually does go back much further than post-civil war. Lawrence ClaytonVaqueros in Spanish North America were here centuries long before the Anglos.