larry1096

I tried a foam roller (it was the same material as the cheap foam brushes I use for dye-lots of bubbles. Because you drag the brush along, but the roller 'picks up' on the finish continually, it seems to form bubbles more easily. Actually created a bit of froth when done quickly. That said, I don't know if this was a 'high-density' foam, it was just a cheap disposable roller from a craft store. Larry

Been awhile since I did anything in black; it certainly seems 'easier' than natural at my (low) skill level. Larry

I've done this so many times, I've taken to writing 'Grain' and 'Suede' on my patterns. If the name doesn't match, it's upside-down. Of course, this doesn't help with printing 'Grain' or 'Suede' on the wrong side to begin with... Larry

Dwight, that's a very helpful diagram, and sums up the issue nicely. The problem, at least with the EMP, is that the slide is shorter (top to bottom) than a standard 1911, and with an extended safety, placing the snap on 'top' of the safety as shown throws it *way* out away from the pistol. That's why my last attempt moved the snap forward (toward the muzzle) a bit, but was too far from the thumbreak to operate correctly. <sigh> If I do this photo right, it might show how little real estate there seems to be for the snap, or at least a 'normal' snap: Again, thanks for the suggestions; I'm still trying to formulate a pattern that might work- Larry

Thanks for the replies. I've tried moving it up on the slide, but there's not enough room to feel comfortable the strap is securing the weapon in the holster properly-it can 'pop' over the top of the slide. I tried moving it downward below the safety, with an extra long thumb paddle and reinforcement, but it lost too much leverage at the snap. At the rate I'm going through prototypes, we're all going to to have to eat a couple extra cheeseburgers to avoid a leather shortage.... Larry

Hello, I seldom make holsters with thumbreaks, but as I've been working on designs for a few shoulder holsters, have had to incorporate them in those designs. For most striker fired guns, it's not a problem, but for a 1911 (and in particular, a Springfield EMP) it's been difficult; I find the snap mounted to the thumbreak (the part the thumb actuates, as opposed to the strap side which wraps around the gun) is landing right *on* the safety lever. This causes snapping the break in place to occasionally push the safety to the 'off' position, which is obviously not acceptable. I"m wondering if anyone would be able to share where the snap side of their breaks (especially in shoulder holsters) is generally placed, and a photo would be most appreciated, if anyone has one handy. Thanks, Larry

A quick check of youtube can show what dangers a soft, floppy holster poses. I'd reject it in those grounds alone, to be honest. Larry

One of my other hobbies is luthiery; I've been building electric guitars, from scratch, for about ten years. I needed a burnisher, and since I've got a nice supply of exotic woods, and my son has a couple nice lathes in our garage from his pen-making days, I figured I'd whip one up. So...couple hours later, I threw that one away and tried again. Couple hours later...threw another one away. Finally got one that *almost* worked, after FIVE attempts; then bought one made by a pro. If I'd seen these first, I'd have HAPPILY paid the asking price for one. If we price things based on the cost of raw materials and time, and exclude skill and experience, nobody here would ever sell a holster for more than $30, would they? Larry

Just got a Euro bend (right before the sale, of course...derp) and, after selecting through the stack available, found a VERY clean piece. Compared directly to some A HO that I had on hand, it's paler, cleaner and has a better suede side. Larry

I got one of Nick's maker stamps a couple weeks back, and it was very cleanly made and precise. Got it in under a week, also. Larry

Hi, I've noticed most holster makers mount their snaps with screws, presumably with tee nuts beneath or behind them. It seems a good idea, as it allows for snap replacement where the backing is covered, and would otherwise be inaccessible. Anyone know where to buy the components for those, and perhaps some measurements? I'm having trouble with a source and sizing. Thanks, Larry

Thanks for all the good suggestions! I'm planning to use all of them- I will add an idea my mad googling turned up, although I'm afraid I can't find the link and give proper credit to the author- Hold the workpiece upside down, and glue from the bottom-any strings or drips will fall AWAY from the leather, and the strings can usually be pulled away without getting any cement on the work. Between all these ideas, I will just have to blame myself for sloppiness if this happens again, I think! Larry

Is there a specific technique I can use to avoid getting the (seemingly) unavoidable strings and drips of Barge cement all over my work piece? I always manage to get at least one sticky, stringy blob dropped right where it will show. Is there a trick, or a better product? Thanks, Larry