spur2009

Donnie - There is a book on english saddle and harness making. The title is "Saddlery and Harness Making" by Paul L. Hasluck. This book was originally published in 1904 but is still available (I have a copy). Believe you could locate a copy on the internet say possibly AMAZON. Good luck. I do right much english repair in my shop and I hate it but business is business and a feller has to make a living.

Never - Never use compound. On older saddles will tuen it damn near black in a hurry. That nasty stuff is in compound not pure.

Everyone is pretty much right on. Ain't much I can add. In ref to Wesson oil. It's great and I have used it for yrs. However, you don't have to buy the expensive stuff. You can do the same with generic oil as long as it is 100% veg oil. Also do not use neat lac or other laquer type finishes as them cause way to many problems. Your silver conchos will shine right up with tooth paste. By the way, I really like Black Rock for a final finish on saddles and othe leather grear.

I have Alain's book and can tell you it is excellent. Been doing this for many yrs and am still amazed at some of his work. I have communicated with him numerous times. He is certainly an honorable and trustworthy gentemen. Can assure you that if you do indeed purchase his book it will be money well spent.

The book you mention is excellent and worth twice the money. You can't believe some of the saddles he has brought back. I am fortunate that he sent me a signed copy for free. Sure worth your while. By the way - I have a Tio Myers in excellent shape, been in the family a long time and there ain't enough cash money to buy it. Good luck with yours - give it a try, you sure as hell ain'tgot nothing to loose.

I also clean and condition a heck of a lot of nasty saddles. I sure enough like Murphy's Oil Soap. I sure would recommend that you do not use yellow paste saddlesoap. If you use saddlesoap use bar glycerine or liquid glycerine saddlesoap (fiebings is excellent). Whichever soap you use (dish washing detergent also works well) be sure a rinse off soap prior to applying oil which should be applied in several light coats. Applying first coat of oil while saddle is still damp allows for better oil penetration. Good luck.

I have been building saddles for better than 50 yrs but sorry to say I ain't learned how to build one put of cabbage leaves

I use flat plate riigings (553's) for inskirt rigged sadles all the time. They work perfect

What you have found is a model 1904 miliary saddle. The 1904 was the first to me made in brown color and was made thry 1940. my father rode one like this chasing Poncho Villa around Mexico and during WW1. Weaver Leather carries a complete line of restoration pieces. Good Luck.

Bill - I have been using 10-12 OZ leather on headstalls, both lined and unlined, have have had very good luck with them. In fact the headstall on my personal using saddle is over 20 yrs old and going strong,

Great poem on you dad's old chaps. Reminds me of my grandad's old saddle on the wall in my shop

Howdy Hugh: I also like the old timer high backs and have restored many many over the years as well as doing a right good bit of musem restorations. I have quite a few in my own collection. Becareful however inusing them as the bars are mostly to shot and the gullts are to narrow. Take care and good luck on your latest treasure

The stirrup leather connector on your saddle, two pins and safety type pin was very popular in the 20's. Over they yrs have had a number come in my shop for repair with this type connector. Have a couple of sets in my save it box - I might need them sometime.

Reckon I have to go along in most part with Bruce. IThe majority of the saddles that I make are for working hands that do some heavy roping, both dally and hard and fast. I believe the filller must be a solid piece and nailed down to prevent twisting when saddle is roped from.

Not sure I want to get involved with this one, however, I guess I have to get my 2 cents in. I try not to judge the quality of other folks work but instead judge thequality of my own. I firmly believe that ifwhat you do does not have your name on it then it is not of a quality to leave your shop. I believe to the craftsman is his own best critic and should never settle for second best. Reckon I've spouted off enough on this subject.