TTcustom
-
Content Count
351 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by TTcustom
-
-
Get some 1500grit wet dry paper at the hardware store too and use that. You want that awl sharp, smooth and oh so polished.
-
I don't know if you feller's even thought of something like this. What I would do, (assuming it's set at a good tension at the factory) is immediately put some sort of mark with tape, north south east and west on all the knobs and corresponding marks on the body of the machine... color coded. Then measure the distance from the knob to the body of the machine and note that in the manual. so let's say N is red, W is green, S is brown, E is red. This way you can see at a glance if you've turned it a few degrees or 180*.
I guess I forgot to mention it but yes Sylvia I had marked the know as a reference.
-
My method, and I will be interested to hear Spinners, is to make a note of if I turned a knob in or out and how far i turned it. Half turn, one full turn, cw or ccw, that sort of thing. my notes are arranged by needle, thread and then what tension adjustments i made. I took pictures of everything when it arrived too so that I could document it's as received condition and settings. I need to know I can return the machine to it's last known working state, just like a computer, so I need to know where everything was set when it worked fine. I may have measured somethings with a drop mic and calipers but that might be admitting some OCD tendencies... :D
-
If it comes prethreaded take a picture of it threaded and where everything is set. Number one thing... What everybody said above. Don't get wilda$$ crazy and start spinning tension knobs willynilly.
Also take vacation/sick (koff koff) day on tuesday and have fun!
-
<br /><br /><br /><br />I wonder what the Troop number is for their workers?<br />BWhahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Hey they have to get their badges too!
-
I would advise you to read the tutorials on this thread by Bob Parks on edge finishing and the one below that on Belt making. They will answer a lot of your questions and give you some ideas too.
-
Better would be true marketers!
I found this,
"BillyKirk — the equestrian, old school L.L. Bean, vintage industrial clothing inspired leather goods line, created by brothers Kirkland and Christopher Bray, is quickly making its well deserved mark on all those in the know. Together, brothers Chris and Kirk trained under a third generation leather maker for 3 years, eventually moving out to the east coast where they now work with Amish leather workers who are commissioned to handcraft their gorgeous bags and accessories with antique tools and old-world master-craftsman techniques. The result is a timeless, ruggedly durable, structured design they refer to as "the new vintage" that is sure to stand the test of time in both design and functionality."
Boy howdy if it was made by Amish workers with antique tools than it gosh darn has to be good. Amish sweatshops!?!?!
I don't believe a word of it...
The Emperor has no clothes!
-
Wow! uh just wow! Churn it out is right. With a wink he says right in the wallet description that this is churned out. I don't have near the nerve to ask someone $95 for that. But whatever floats their boat. I also don't have the ability or desire to assemble such a list of retailers that carry my product. If true it is quite impressive.
FWIW
Stockist-
— n
( Brit ) commerce a dealer who undertakes to maintain stocks of a specified product at or above a certain minimum in return for favourable buying terms granted by the manufacturer of the product
Hipsters love to use the arcane.
-
My condolences on your great loss.
-
Brass anneals at roughly 800 to 1300 degrees F. Like copper you can anneal it by heating to a dull red with a torch and then quenching with water. Put some spa ph reducer (HCL) from the pool store in the water to remove the scaling. finish up with some buffing and wax. <br /> Having done repousse work and made a few wildcat cartridges I can tell you this method works well. Brass and copper work different than steels. If you need to handle it right away quench if you don't air cool. There is good info on the Jewelery and repousse websites.
-
Tandy sells rubber sheets ( "pondo boards") and you can get them at industrial supply stores like Grainger and McMaster-Carr. Here is a link to McMaster-Carr medium strength with a 70 or 80 durometer 1/4" thick is what I bought. I covered my whole workbench top with it. That is what I punch into and I got a cutting mat from JoAnn's for cutting out small pieces on. It sure saves my blades.
-
Awesome question and I am looking forward to what the experienced Vinegaroon users have to say.
Thanks for such a thorough and precise description of your process.
-
The " Spanish saddle with the ungainly sole-leather covering with the unspellable name." He was probably referring to a Mochilla covered saddle. that is what I think the unspellable name was.
-
Um Ihnen die Eindrücke tiefer müssen Sie tränken, oder "case", das Leder. Für kleine Projekte und hellem Leder Ich befeuchtete es mit einem Schwamm und ließ es dann auf normale Farbe zurück. Die richtige Menge Wasser contenet in der Leder wird Schleppmesser Schnitte und Stanzen tiefer.
Bob Parks has a great article about casing leather for tooling in the how to section. here is a link to it; Casing leather.
-
Hi Kai!
Welcome, you have come to the right place. There is a lot of experience here to gain some knowledge from. Let us see some pictures of your work when you have a chance.
I lived in Erding for 3 years.
Cheers,
Tim
-
can anyone explain why barry kings swivel knives are 45 with a blade and they are made out of solid brass and tool steel blades.
I have a Barry King and this thread inspired me to order a 3/8 straight blade to go into it. I have to say i am happy with it but I don't do a lot of Sheridan style carving. His blades are really nice though and glide through the leather.
I will have to watch this thread and see what others with more experience have to add.
-
Welcome and Hello.
-
In I think the first book of the three book series by Stohlman on case making it shows how to make these handles and I think suggestions of what leather weight to use. I have used skirting leather and skived it when it needs to be thinner. That has been my method. I used tooling belly on one laptop case handle. It seemed okay and have not heard any negative feedback from it's owner after two semesters of use.
-
Look in the yellow pages for Machinery riggers. They are the guys that move big stuff in factories and shops. if you have the $$ they will do it for you or at least maybe they can give you some helpful advice.
-
I just got mine too and I put a stitch line down with my groover to follow and keep me on a even keel. I will have to try the creaser. I have been using the left presser foot on everything so far as that was what was on the machine when I got it. it is going to take a lot more thread and a lot more scraps to get in the practice I need to be really good.
-
Well that is really awesome. You have really pushing the envelope of what can be decorated with leather. It really is beautiful work and #2 it brings your art into a room of the house that can always use more culture.
-
I have circle templates. Barge cement can size and small rubber cement can size. I have a few drive punches cut in half too. and a strap end cutter. sometimes I have resorted to using my dividers to scribe a line that I cut to.
You are off to a great start!
-
If i won the lottery I would fill up on Barry King Tools! I have a few of his stamps and a swivel knife from him too. Such crisp details and great designs.
-
I have my edges ready to be burnished. I have a few daubers that I have lit afire and burned them down to at least half their original size. This works well for me the burned daubers keep the amount of dye on hand in control and I don't get drips or run over.
Cocobolo Burnishers For Dremel And Drill Press And Bench Grinders
in Old/Sold
Posted · Report reply
Gary passed June 4th.
His Obit in the Santa Fe New Mexican