TTcustom

Gary passed June 4th. His Obit in the Santa Fe New Mexican

Get some 1500grit wet dry paper at the hardware store too and use that. You want that awl sharp, smooth and oh so polished.

I guess I forgot to mention it but yes Sylvia I had marked the know as a reference.

My method, and I will be interested to hear Spinners, is to make a note of if I turned a knob in or out and how far i turned it. Half turn, one full turn, cw or ccw, that sort of thing. my notes are arranged by needle, thread and then what tension adjustments i made. I took pictures of everything when it arrived too so that I could document it's as received condition and settings. I need to know I can return the machine to it's last known working state, just like a computer, so I need to know where everything was set when it worked fine. I may have measured somethings with a drop mic and calipers but that might be admitting some OCD tendencies... :D

If it comes prethreaded take a picture of it threaded and where everything is set. Number one thing... What everybody said above. Don't get wilda$$ crazy and start spinning tension knobs willynilly. Also take vacation/sick (koff koff) day on tuesday and have fun!

<br /><br /><br />BWhahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! Hey they have to get their badges too!

I would advise you to read the tutorials on this thread by Bob Parks on edge finishing and the one below that on Belt making. They will answer a lot of your questions and give you some ideas too.

Better would be true marketers! I found this, "BillyKirk — the equestrian, old school L.L. Bean, vintage industrial clothing inspired leather goods line, created by brothers Kirkland and Christopher Bray, is quickly making its well deserved mark on all those in the know. Together, brothers Chris and Kirk trained under a third generation leather maker for 3 years, eventually moving out to the east coast where they now work with Amish leather workers who are commissioned to handcraft their gorgeous bags and accessories with antique tools and old-world master-craftsman techniques. The result is a timeless, ruggedly durable, structured design they refer to as "the new vintage" that is sure to stand the test of time in both design and functionality." Boy howdy if it was made by Amish workers with antique tools than it gosh darn has to be good. Amish sweatshops!?!?! I don't believe a word of it... The Emperor has no clothes!

Wow! uh just wow! Churn it out is right. With a wink he says right in the wallet description that this is churned out. I don't have near the nerve to ask someone $95 for that. But whatever floats their boat. I also don't have the ability or desire to assemble such a list of retailers that carry my product. If true it is quite impressive. FWIW Stockist- — n ( Brit ) commerce a dealer who undertakes to maintain stocks of a specified product at or above a certain minimum in return for favourable buying terms granted by the manufacturer of the product Hipsters love to use the arcane.

My condolences on your great loss.

Brass anneals at roughly 800 to 1300 degrees F. Like copper you can anneal it by heating to a dull red with a torch and then quenching with water. Put some spa ph reducer (HCL) from the pool store in the water to remove the scaling. finish up with some buffing and wax. <br /> Having done repousse work and made a few wildcat cartridges I can tell you this method works well. Brass and copper work different than steels. If you need to handle it right away quench if you don't air cool. There is good info on the Jewelery and repousse websites.

Tandy sells rubber sheets ( "pondo boards") and you can get them at industrial supply stores like Grainger and McMaster-Carr. Here is a link to McMaster-Carr medium strength with a 70 or 80 durometer 1/4" thick is what I bought. I covered my whole workbench top with it. That is what I punch into and I got a cutting mat from JoAnn's for cutting out small pieces on. It sure saves my blades.

Awesome question and I am looking forward to what the experienced Vinegaroon users have to say. Thanks for such a thorough and precise description of your process.

The " Spanish saddle with the ungainly sole-leather covering with the unspellable name." He was probably referring to a Mochilla covered saddle. that is what I think the unspellable name was.