loopinluke
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Posts posted by loopinluke
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Looks good Luke. Hope you had fun buidling it. Is this the one on our tree?
Thanks. No I had someone order this one, so I had to skip the one on your tree. I am working on it now, and have the cantle on, the seat in and ready to do the riggin. Your tree sure is a joy to build on so far. I will make sure and post some pictures of it when I get it done.
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Thanks for the comments all. The marks on the seat and fenders are something I darn sure need to work on. Its hard when you leave that much smooth out. I also wish the front part of the skirts hadn't come out so long, or at least that it had been cut differently, along with many other things, but I guess thats what keeps you striving to improve.
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I finally finished my fourth saddle. There are a few things I would change as always but I think its better than my first three. Would love to hear any comments or critiques. Thanks for looking.
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Barry will do a half stamp however you want it. I have two half double rope basket stamps in different sizes and a half of his crazy stamp too. Sure makes it easier on the borders I think.
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I have having some very frustrating problems with my Ferdco machine. It is about 2 years old, and I don't sew nearly as much as most as I don't work with leather for a living. The problem I am having is that the machine will not sew straight. If you put a piece of leather in the machine and just let the machine sew, it will sew in a curve until it runs off the side of the leather. If you hold the leather at an angle so it stitches straight then the needle will get pulled off center until it hits outside the little hole and busts the needle. I get to start over on a breast collar I am building because of this, and I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in advance, Lucas.
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I think you did a fine job !! Only thing i don't care for and i see it lots on saddles now is extra long rope strap. Looks to me like when you undo it it's just hanging in the way unless you take the time to wrap it back up and buckle. One question whats the extra concho on the string for by the seat ?
Maybe I don't understand what concho you mean? The two rawhide covered rings are to carry a piggin string. I made this saddle for my dad, and he and I both untwist old ropes and braid them back with a ring in one end to use as a piggin string. I also wanted to note that I did make a back cinch for this saddle, I just hadn't put it on yet as he wanted to try it without first.
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Here are some pictures of my second saddle. It is built on a Timberline Ray Hunt tree, with a 16" seat, 4 x 3 horn, and a 12 x 5 cantle. I used Herman Oak skirting, and my wife made the mohair cinch. I would sure appreciate any critiques. I'm aware of several things I would change, but I reckon that will have to wait for the next saddle. I have some odds and ends to finish up then I will start on the next one. Thanks for looking.
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My dad has always cowboyed for a living, and got started in leatherwork to make the tack that he couldn't afford. Then he started braiding some reins while working on a large ranch in Southern California. He passed down what he had learned, and cowboying for a living myself, I have continued to learn what I can and have recently started building a few saddles, and just finishing my second.
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I use the parachute cord for romal reins, some bosalitas, and various other things, and I like to take the core out for everything. I find, for me, it helps my braid lay down better. I use the 450 parachute cord and I get it fron Barre Army Surplus store out of VT I believe. I don't think they intend it for braiding necessarily, but it is the cheapest I have found. Their website is: www.vtarmynavy.com or you can just google Barre Army Store and it will come up on top with a subheading for parachute cord. I just looked and 1000 ft of cord is $48.
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So I am hoping some of guys whose saddles I drool over every time you post pictures can help me out here. The problem I am having is this. I cut my seat out after I have cased it and drawn it down on the drawn down stand, and I thought I had been very careful not to cut too low on the fork. I think re-cased the seat, taped the back to help prevent stretch, and then tooled the seat. Now as I am getting ready to put the seat back on the saddle and draw down, I find that the front ears have stretched down, so that my cuts on the fork and very close to being too low. I think I am going to be able to save it, but things are VERY close. How do you folks that do this all the time prevent this from happening. I sure appreciate any help you are willing to give.
Lucas
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Thanks for all the replies. I currently use clear fingernail polish to put the chicago screws in, but still have them come off from time to time. I tried super glue one time, and they damn sure wont come off, but you will twist the head of the screw off before you get it out.....I know this from experience. So I was just kind of looking for some other alternatives. I was also toying with the idea of seeing if a guy could get some conchoes made with two posts in the back and then there would be no way for them to spin, and they might stay tighter to the strap.
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I was wondering if any of you out there had a good way to attach conchoes to dove wing spur straps? The pair I have right now, I used chicago screws, but a person has to be careful or they work loose over time. I'm thinking there should be some really clever way to use loop back conchoes but right now my creative process is taking a break...lol. Anyway...I would sure appreciate any help you all would be willing to give.
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I haven't made a lot of taps, but I have made 4 or 5 sets of long taps and a couple pairs of bulldogs, and I think I can explain how they are attached. You use the stirrup bolts to attach the top part of the taps. Then you put two rosettes and some saddle strings side by side on the front of the taps, pretty much in front of the stirrup bar. Those are both pulled in and then run under the stirrup bar and then behind the stirrup and out the side of the tap to another rosette and a bleed knot. When you wet the taps and shape the top of the taps, these are the strings that help hold the shape. Then, farther down the stirrup, I like to do it just on the corner of the tread as this pulls the wings of the taps closer together, you drill two holes through the stirrups on both sides, run saddle strings through the holes and the sides of the taps to another set of rosettes and bleed knots. I hope this helps ya out some.
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You will find that cotton rope is not the same as mulehide. The cotton rope is faster than rubber, but slower than mulehide, especially after the mulehide has slicked up some. If you want to go a little faster than the cotton rope, but slower than the mulehide, try some elk hide. Personally, I don't care for the rubber or cotton rope, as they make it really hard to slide any rope and therefore are harder on the stock. I have worked on some outfits, where you weren't allowed in the branding trap if you had rubber on your horn. Pig hide also works pretty well as a horn wrap, and way outlasts the mulehide. Latigo is another good horn wrap, but if you think mulehide is too fast I wouldn't even try latigo
. Just my opinions from my personal experience. -
I really like that saddle. Your lines are perfect, and its amazing to me that you can have that much untooled leather without a scratch or blemish on it. Your experience shows, and that should make somebody a hell of a nice rig.
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I'm not always a fan of a swell fork saddle, but I sure like the looks of that one. Very nice job on the tooling and attention to detail.
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This is my first saddle that I just finished. There are a few things I would change, but overall I am fairly pleased with it. I used Herman Oak Leather, with all stainless hardware, on a Timberline Wade Tree, and I still have to put the rear billets on. I would appreciate any comments or critiques. Thanks for looking.
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Weaver also has some letters like that.
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I talked to Greg and didnt have any luck with the outfit that he told me to talk to, unless I want to buy a few hundred hides..lol. I have talked to Sheridan Leather before and they said they didnt have it anymore so I dont know. I may just try the chrome elk they have and see how it works. I just liked the pig hide because it outlasted the mulehide and chap leather that I have used before, and stayed wrapped better than when I roped on latigo. Thanks for the help all.
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Does anyone know where a person could find chrome tanned pigskin? I had a hornwrap out the stuff and I really liked it. I would like to buy a hide to cut up into horn wraps but I cant seem to find it anywhere. I sure appreciate any help given.
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I cowboy for a living, currently working for a ranch north of Rock Springs, WY. I grew up on a ranch in Northern Wyoming, then went to college at the University of Wyoming and Colorado State University for a Bachelor's in Range Management, and a Masters in Integrated Resource Management respectively. My folks both work with leather, and I have continued gaining tools when I can and making all my own tack. I just try to do enough leatherwork for other folks to pay for the materials for my own projects. So far I am doin okay I think.
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The first is a pair of slobber straps I made for my wife.
This is a pair of shotguns I made for myself.
A pair of saddle bags I made for my dad for Christmas. The near side pocket has a divider sewn in to keep bottles separate for medicine or water for dogs.
A bronc halter style noseband I sewed on a rope halter for a girl.
I cowboy for a living and work with leather on my weekends and evenings. I am continously striving to attain the level of workmanship and professionalism the craftsmen on here exhibit, but sometimes I feel my time constraints cause me to rush and make mistakes. I would love any critiques and advice. Thanks for looking.
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I have a lady that wants a 2" wide dog collar for her English Mastiff. The problem is finding a 2" buckle in something beside a #999 for a rear cinch. I have called Sheridan Leather and looked in both the Weaver and Siegel catalogs I have and they don't have anything that big. Does anyone have any ideas or am I going to have to tell her I will have to cut it down to 1 1/2?
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Question On Bobbin Mess
in Leather Sewing Machines
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I have a Ferdco 1010, and generally have pretty good luck with it. The issue I am having lately is that whenever I get to the end of a line of stitching which is next to something like a buckle, riggin plate, etc., and turn around and backstitch 3 or 4 stitches, the top side of the stitches are great, but the bottom side turns into a big wadded up mess. It lookes like the thread coming from the top gets a kink in it and so doesn't pull the lock back up in the middle of the leather. Does anyone have any ideas on this? Otherwise the stitches look great. I should mention that most of the time when this happens it is where the leather is a little thicker after having wrapped around a buckle etc. I would sure appreciate any help you could give me.