chouinardragon

any illustration to show me how to do it?

Hi , I have problem doing the square corner with #10 Vergez Blanchard's pricking iron. The stitch of the square is not good. Please see the attached photo which shows the way I mark the square corner. Any tips? Chris

Thank you, Jax

Hi Trox, Thanks a lot. I already have "the art of hand sewing leather" but the French style tools are kind of different - the stitch pony/saddler's clamp, the round/flat awl haft. I have problem holding the flat awl haft, it's kind of smaller, I use a 38 mm awl. When stitch, should the awl blade be parallel to the saddler's clamp?? Do you flatter your awl blade to drop shape? I flattered my awl blade to be thin, does it affect my stitches? Hi simontuntelder, Thanks a lot. I punch the pricking iron slightly instead of punching it all the way through. I use a #10 pricking iron and the 3/18 is kind of bigger, it makes the stitches look like braid. I don't know why, maybe it is because I flatter the awl blade to be very thin, the holds it pierces is very thin,too. I am working on a new awl blade, I will get some photos when I get my new awl. Thank you, guys. I really appreciate that. Chris

Hello, I've been asking about how to hand stitch perfectly over and over again and I still can't not stitch perfectly. I've been researching and reading many articles about hand stitch techniques. My problems are still not solved. Let's talk about my hand sewing tools first. and they are all from Vergez Blanchard. - sewing awl (small size,38 mm, I filed the awl blade into a tear drop shape and shorten it as long as the cooper barrel) - #10 pricking iron (5 teethes) - saddler's clamp (the shorter one,105 cm) - #6 sewing needle (the smallest needle I can find, from Germany) - 3/35 Barbour Irish linen thread I am 5 feet and 7 inches and sit on a normal chair when I stitch. I have problem holding my sewing awl, I don't know how to hold it correctly, I feel uncomfortable while I stitch. I research this video hundreds of times but still don't know how to hold an awl correctly. When the craftsman place his middle finger on the surface of his clamp, his awl blade tip is almost reaching the leather. When I stitch, the awl blade tip is far away from the leather. Another problem is how to place the sewing hand on the clamp. The problem is quite complicated because it may caused by many reasons, such as the angle / length of the clamp, the height of my chair, the size of my awl .... I stitch everyday for an hour for 8 months ... still have terrible stitches. Please help. My English is poor so that I draw a photo of my problems, maybe that will help you guys to realize where my problems are. Thanks in advanced. Chris

Thanks buddy. I sit on a normal chair while I do stitch, not a stool. Does it make any difference?

thanks steve, and sorry for my poor English, I'm not native speaker. In short, 1) I don't know the correct way to pose the saddler's clamp (angle). 2) I don't know how to pose my right hand on the saddler's clamp (toward the leather? toward the front?). 3) I don't know which way I should push the awl while stab. By the way, I flated the awl blade so it is not diamond shaped, more like eye-shaped. Does it matter?

Hello guys, I have been using saddler's clamp instead of stitching pony for a while. I use Vergez Blanchard's saddler's clamp and their 38mm awl. I have problem with it. I can't stab the awl vertically to the leather because of the direction of the awl in my hand. I also have no ideas of what direction should I push the awl blade while I stab. Should I adjust the way I hold the awl or the way of the saddler's clamp between my legs? Thanks!

Yes, i saw a Hermes bag maker stitching a Kelly bag at Hermes festival des metiers, she did punch the iron all the way through. But, the Hermes saddle maker did NOT punch the iron all the way through, he did use the awl to stab into the leather while stitching. I love the way the saddle maker does.

Hi guys, Recently, I noticed that the leather workers of Italian leather brands use the bronze clicking knife for cutting leather. Anyone has any ideas about this knife? Chris

(> <) my bad. i don't know when i should glue temporarily, when sewing small leather goods, i always glue them permanently. that's why i only have one glue pot Chris

Thanks, Kevin. What's the difference / purpose between rubber and contact cement??? chris

Hi guys, Do you have two glue pots on your workbench? I always see two glue pots in blue and red caps on bag/leather goods craftsman's workbench. I was wondering why they need two kind of glues. Are they water-based glue and rubber cement for different uses? Anyone knows? Chris

3 pricking irons-no.7,8 and 10 for $100 USD. strap pricker for $35 USD. Shipping to the US would be $20 I guess. Chris

Hi, the pricking iron on this video looks like Barnsley, a UK tool maker. By the way, I visited Festival des Metiers Hermes last Week in Taipei. I saw the Kelly bag artisan striking the pricking iron all the way thru leather. I felt she only used the awl to guide the left hand needle. I don't know if the leather matters because the Kelly bag was made of soft print leather. The pricking iron doesn't work well on soft leather. And of course, the pricking irons are used for making marks ... I believe she will only "mark" on box calf instead of going thru. Chris

Hi Stacy, Sorry for the late reply. I did not notice... I can sell you by half price if you're still interested. it's never used because i don't know what it is used for ... I recently located Vergez Blanchard's pricking wheel with 8,10 and 12 wheels. So, I'm planning to sell my JD no.7,8 and 10 pricking irons, of course, by half price. Chris Chris

Hello fivewayswelshcobs, I've been practicing these days... I feel comfortable while stitching. Recently, I found my stitches on the upper don't hold the angle, they are kind of "flat" (see P1). But, stitches on the other side hold the angle (see P2). Do you know why? Pictures as attached. I stitched with 35/3 linen thread, 12 spi, on 3mm leather. Chris

Hi fivewayswelshcobs, Thank you. I've been stitching these days and the stitches are getting better. I try to stitch mechanically and it works, though there are few stitches are irregular. I am still happy with the result. After stitching, I feel numb on my back and left arm... I think my stitch clam is too long to work for me. Chris

Gary, You really help a lot, thank you. I've been stitching these days. I'm doing okay with two layers of 5oz leather but not okay with 8oz leather. What thickness would you recommend to start with for a beginner? Chris

Thanks, buddy. I've been watching this video over and over and over again. It really helps. Thank you. Chris

Gary, Nice diagram, thanks. I probably know how you use stitching clamp. Basically, it's the same as stitching pony,right? Regarding to French clamp, on the end of the French clamp is tappered, that's why they don't sit higher but lower. It's quite uncomfortable in that position but the marks made by the pricking iron are visible. Still figuring out how to stitch perfectly by using French clamp. Maybe all I need is practice and practice and practice ... ... Chris

Gary, You said "The leather is held in the jaws vertically so you have to stab and stitch horizontally left to right (or vice versa)" but my stitch clamp is made to fold. So, the leather is not held in the jaws vertically. The stitch clamp I have is used with the base on the floor and is held between on my left thigh and right let. I'm not a native English speaker, I can't express myself exactly, so please see attached picture. It was taken at Hermes Festival of Crafts, showing a leatherworker who stitched a Kelly bag. It seems that this kind of stitch clamp is not common in the US... I have no idea if anyone here stitches in this way ... but I really need to know how to stitch in this way perfectly. Do you have any idea? Chris

Hi, Anyone uses traditional English stitching clamp? The one like Blanchard sells. Picture attached (picture from a Japan leather tool seller). I can't stab the awl vertically to the leather and it's not laying flat on my left thigh, it's kind of facing toward me. Any tips when using it? Thanks! Chris

Hi Terry, Okay, 5ml of powder and 300ml of spirit. This is what i need. Chris

Hello guys, I recently found that Abbey Saddlery selling dye powders for edge finishing. I don't know what are they used for? Mix it with tallow,wax etc? Any one knows? Chris