Larry

Thanks everyone for the great replies. I thought it might be iron oxidation (another name for rust) also and I found the cure for it. It's the brown bottle of rust remover you get at any grocery store. I have provided pictures of the results and it only take a few drop on the wet leather and the black is gone in seconds. It looks like brand new leather. I hope this will help others out there that may have the same problem. Thanks again, Larry MBOGO, as you can probably tell, it is a Tom Threeperson's design and it's for my S&W Mod. 19 and Mod. 66. Both are 6" barrels. I found a photo of what they think was one of his original holsters (who knows??) and I went to PhotoShop and under "Filters" I used the "Find Edges" command and traced the design right off the holster. It may or may not be his holster, but the design is nice I think.

I just started my Tom Threepersons style holster and when I cased the leather, it turned black. Mostly spots on the grain side, but some also on the flesh side. The more it dries the more black gunk it has show up on it. I know with all your experience, you would know what this is. Also, what do I do about it? It's not the top of the line leather as I am new to leather crafting and still honing my skills. It's Tandy's veg. tanned single shoulder 6-7 ounce. Thanks everyone. Larry

Many thanks, Lobo, I sure appreciate the pics. Now I can get started on the holster. I probably won't have a lining. I would like to try the tooling. I'll post pics here when I finish and maybe get some critics to help me learn as I go. Thanks again, Larry

I have looked at a lot of Tom Threepersons holsters and would like to make one for my S&W Mod. 19 and Mod. 66. I don't know how to finish the back of the holster as all the photos just show the front. It is stitched up the side and there is a small line of stitch just below the trigger guard. It goes down and looks like it is about an inch or inch and half long. Can someone tell me what this stitch is for? They all seem to have it and I can’t figure out what it is for. Also, does someone know where I can see the back side of a Tom Threeperson holster? This is new to me. I have made 4 holsters, so I am just learning. Here is a picture with the stitch in the red circle. Thanks everyone, Larry.

I've heard that if you carry concealed (or otherwise) that you will end up with a drawer full of holsters. It's just that difficult to find the exact one that works. Well I took the advice of Randy at bulldogleathercompany, MGOBO, and Jeff at boomstickholsters and my fourth holster hit the jackpot. Not long ago I had to travel out of town for about a 10 hour trip and it was in and out of the truck into stores. I was wearing a belt slide by a major holster maker that I had used for trips into town and thought was a good one. This trip taught me otherwise. After about 8 hours I took my 1911 (3” Kimber Ultra Carry) out and put in my console. We all know that defeats the purpose of conceal carry. So I decided to make my own. I kind of knew what I wanted and started to work. The first couple felt like a weight hanging off my belt. Then these guys took the time to educate me and help a newbie learn what a holster should and should not do. This holster really looks better than the pics show, but it is my prototype. I will re-make this holster and take my time. The dye is the Tandy All-in-one and being a newbie I figured it was best to start with it. The next holster will be dyed with better dye and my airbrush. The throat band goes all the way around and is doubled 6-7 oz. Leather. I doubled it so I could get the smooth side of the leather out for the belt loop. Needless to say the throat will never close up and hinder re-holster the weapon. The wide belt loop the guys told me I needed sure makes a difference. I wore it all day just to see how it would feel and there were times I forgot I had the pistol on my side. It is so comfortable I can’t believe it. And it is snug to my side. The pistol goes in and out of the holster and the holster and belt never moves. I have a full three finger grip on the pistol when it's drawn. I rubbed in 100% glycerin soap inside, and the welt is the same width all the way down so it gives the holster a rock solid feel. Thank you guys, and if you are having problems making your own holster, get in touch with these guys, they know what they are talking about. Thanks again for your help. Larry

Jeff, I took your advise and it turned out very good, I think. You are right the three fingers on the grip sure make a difference when you draw from the holster. I did the wider belt loop as you suggested. It sets real snug to my side and is very concealable (and comfortable). Thanks again guys, for all the help. Larry MBOGO, thanks for the kind words of encouragement. The wood is stabilized red cedar. I made the grips for it and the knife I made from an old sway back butcher knife. I stabilized them in resin. I call the .45 Kimber and the knife "Shock and Awe"

Thanks, Jeff, for the great information. I do value the advise. I like the idea of blocking the other side of the mag release. It's something I think about since I'm a lefty. I also like the idea of a wider loop. I was thinking about making another holster and stopping the top band just past the sight channel and start the loop there. It would be wider and the belt would be higher on the holster which should help it be more stable. Am I making my self clear. I can see how I would like it to be, but not sure I'm explaining it in writing. Maybe I'll get busy and make another one and send a picture of it. You are right, I would like to get more of my hand on the the pistol if I have to get it out of the holster in a hurry (and probably a panic). Thanks again for the advise. Larry

Well, I finished my second holster. I still have a long way to go, especially with the stitching in the thick area that required drilling. I had to make it a little thicker than the normal style for this holster as I wanted the mag release to be covered. So the thickness at the frame is as wide as the frame and not the trigger guard as it usually is. It still draws easy, or will soon when it gets broken in. Right now it is real tight. I soaked it and when almost dry I put my pistol in it and vacuum sealed it and hand massaged a while then used a polished deer antler. I used a bamboo skewer stick in the sight channel and it is the perfect width of the front sight. It sets real snug to my side and is very concealable. I like it except for the stitching. My pistol is a 3" Kimber Ultra Carry and I embossed my initials with the 1/4" alphabet set. The embossing didn't turn out so good.

This is my pattern, you can see that was my thinking too. But I'm new to this and wanted to get it done the correct way. I sure appreciate the help. It's great to learn from folks that have been doing this for a while and know what they are talking about. Thanks, Larry

I'd like to do a holster like the one below, but not sure how the belt loops are done. I didn't know if it would be just one wide slot or would two narrow slots about an inch apart be better? Thanks everyone. Larry

Great ideas. But since I'm a beginner, I really need a plan or a kit. I've only made a couple of knife sheaths. Maybe someone will have a plan or know where i can get a kit. When I get a little more experience, I'll be able to do the things you have recommended. Thanks again. Larry

My wife saw a purse kit at Tandy she liked. It was open top but no way to conceal her little .38 snub nose. Where can I get a kit or a pattern for this type of purse. Thanks everyone. Larry

Thanks, Luke... I'll check out the tutorials. I've read a few so far, just haven't seen one on taking care of the leather before and while carving and stamping. I'm sure I will come across it. This is all new to me and so far I'm lovin' it. Last time I carve or stamped leather was in Boy Scouts. I'm 65 now, so you can see that was some time ago. Thanks again. Larry

Thanks, everyone, I'm going to give it a go. I have one more question. When I draw on my flesh side to create borders or designs, how do I get rid of the impressions it leaves?

I see where Tandy sells a Leather Carving and Stamping Conditioner that is mixed with water and use to case the leather. Being retired and on fixed income, I'm always looking for ways to make my own tools and accessories. Is this something that can be made at home to aid in the carving and stamping of leather? Thanks, everyone. Larry.