Larry

I'd like to make the Traveling Secretary in the A.S. book on Making Cases. Every time I make a project with a lining after glue up and I fold the project, the lining wrinkles and never lays smooths. I know I'm doing something wrong, but I don't know what. I only glue in the areas marked in the illustrations. This project is the first one I will be using a light weight pig shin. The last one was veg tanned 2-21/2 oz. that I got from Springfield. Any help is appreciated and thanks everyone. Larry

Sam, I got the files and want to thank you. I couldn't open most of them for some reason. I know it was a lot of work to get them all together and attach them to send, but if you have a spare minute, would you re-send them? I live in the country and my internet provider is Hughes and I can't receive large files, so if you could break it up into several e-mails, that would be great. I know you are busy and I feel strange asking to be "spoon fed" all this great information, but only if you have time and you feel up to doing it. If not, I do understand and would not blame you a bit. I feel confident with an air brush. I've been doing camo on rifle stocks for some time now and I don't think it was the air brush. I think it was the leather or something on the leather I could not see before I applied the dye. Or, it could have been I just didn't put enough dye on. I'm afraid to get the cartridge loops damp again so I'm going to leave it as is. I thought maybe denatured alcohol or something that would flash off quickly would work and I would try it. It's just going to have to be that way and just a part of the learning curve. Anyway, here is a sample of some of my air brush work. Larry

King's X, it was the dye. It was on a small ammo wallet and it is most visible where the folds are. I did an oak leaf and my initials in a square and dyed the background and my initials dark brown. Then I air brushed a light tan on the ammo wallet so there would be a good contrast. I think I just got it too light and the dye penetrated some places and not others. I've used this dye and leather on a holster and sprayed the dye fairly heavy and the color is darker and no streaks. I just didn't want this ammo wallet to be very dark. I used this same dye on the clutch purse and checkbook cover and they came out great. Very even color and not very dark. The wallet was dyed with Tandy's Range Tan (not the all-in-one) and the leather was Tandy's single shoulder 6-7 oz. The only difference was the clutch purse and checkbook cover were different leather. I got that leather from Springfield. And they told me it was their better quality leather. It was very thin, maybe 3-4 oz. You told me to contact them for the clutch purse insert, so I went ahead and got the better leather at the same time. Kate, thanks for the info. The cartridge loops were wet formed as someone on the holster forum suggested would hold up better. I'm not sure I want to get the project too wet, but I may try just a corner and see what happens. Thank you both. Larry

Thanks, Bill, I wasn't aware of the model spoon or that you were supposed to smooth out the sharp edges. I bet that makes a big difference. I'm sure too that the deco cut "more is less" is the rule of thumb. I can already see my carving is coming along a lot better. This was really thin stuff (3 - 4 oz.) and it wasn't easy to carve. It really looks better than the picture show it to be. Thanks again for the great tips. Larry

I just finished a project and after I put on the Super Sheen, I noticed that the dye job was streaked. I put the dye on with my air brush and it looked good when I finished. I let it dry good (several hours) and then put on two coats of Super Sheen. Is there a way to remove the Super Sheen and re-dye the project? Thanks everyone. Larry

Thanks King's X and Billsotx for the help. Here is the finished product. I had company for a while and had to put things on hold. For my first one, I'm fairly satisfied. I made her a checkbook cover and clutch purse. The main thing is she is very happy with it. She thinks they are perfect. I've seen pictures of King's X stuff and I'm sure Billsotx's stuff is beautiful too. I know that time will make a difference in the quality of my work. I have heard people call this a craft, but I think it is more of an art than a craft. King's X, I used the scroll pattern you sent me. I got the pattern but just had to guess how to tool it. Any way here they are and thanks again guys for the help. You saved me a lot of headaches.

Bill, I'm on this forum to learn, and if youwere taught that securing the back was SOP while carving/tooling, that's goodenough for me. As a matter of fact, it is probably a goodhabit to form, whether you are using pre-cut pieces from a kit or just a pieceof leather. Once you have established that everything gets secured on the back regardless, then there is no questions. I like the idea of the packingtape. I did do a checkbook kit for my wife not long ago and I usedcardboard, like the instructions said, and it was mushy when I use my mallet for tooling. The packing tape sounds like a great idea. I wasn't looking forward to trying to tool on top of cardboard again. Thanks again for the great tips. Betweenyou and King's X, I have learned some important steps that I would not havethought of on my own. Thank you both for shortening my learning curve and saving me time, frustration and leather. Hopefully, I'll have pictures of the finished product soon (and probably more questions). Larry

Thanks, Billsotx, I did not get a kit. I ordered the insert from Springfield Leather and got about 3 sq. ft. of leather to do the tooling on. In this case, am I correct in thinking, I can tool the pattern on a piece larger that the insert and when finished with tooling and the leather is dry, then cut it to size for the clutch purse? Thanks, Larry

PM sent King's X, thanks...

Great tips, I sure appreciate it. I would never have thought about the magnet placement. Exactly how do I install these? Do I just bend the prongs over on the metal plate? I like the pattern, I'll print it out and trace it. It will look great. Thanks again King's X. Larry

Thanks King's X, I got the same insert. It is a Chaylor-Fennell and I got it from Springfield. I don't know what kind of leather it is, Kevin was out and I talked to Carol and she picked it out for me. I think it looks great and like you said I don't want to take a chance by just jumping in. It just does not have a place for a checkbook with a register. I marked in red where I thought I could glue and stitch one in that I can make out of 2-3 oz. leather. There are instruction for it in the "How to make Leather Cases" book . Any instructions you may have I sure would appreciate it. If you think the instructions you have are not relevant (since I have the insert), then I would just need to know if I use the Barge Contact Cement and glue this together after I tool the outside. Springfield sent me some 2-3 oz premium veg tanned leather for the outside and the checkbook cover. That's some beautiful work on the tooling on your clutch purse. I'm just not at that level so my tooling will be a little simpler. I would not even be able to cut that kind of design. I'm going to use a simple flower and scroll out of the "How to Carver Leather" book. She wants it stitched so there will be less bulk and it's easier for me to stitch than it is to lace. Carol sent me some low profile magnet closers. They have a metal plate on them and two prongs. Not real sure how to attach these, but I guess I can figure it out, shouldn't be that complicated. Thanks again King's X . Larry

I went on the "Where to Find It" part of this forum to find the insides for a clutch purse/checkbook wallet formy wife. I was told Springfieldwould have it and they did. It's the C-F insert and looks well made. They were very helpful. Only, it doesnot have a checkbook and register position. I have my book "The Artof Making Leather Cases" by A.S. and I can make one and add it to theinsides. I'm new to this craft and not really sure of what to lookout for when I put this all together. SL sent me some 3-4 oz veg. tanned leatherbecause my wife wanted a tooled cover. I can make the checkbook cover outof it also and glue and stitch it to the insert. I want to stitch it all rather than laceit. Here are my questions: Do I need to cut the leather after I toolit due to stretching (that makes sense) but do I need to cut it exactly the dimensionof the insert or do I make it 1/8" larger. Do I use my Barge Contact Cement on thepaper like insert and the leather just like putting two pieces of leathertogether? I ordered the NRC Checkbook insert and not sure how itgoes into the checkbook slot. It looks to be a tri-fold. I can seethat one of the tri-fold needs to be out for the check that being written, onepart of the tri-fold would be under the slot for the checkbook, but what aboutthe third part of the tri-fold. Please let me know what else I need to look outfor. I can't afford to mess up this$26.00 insert (retired/fixed income dilemma) Thanks everyone for the help. And, thanks for helping me learn this greatcraft. Larry

Thanks, Kate,King's X and Johanna, I'll get with Kevin and get what I need to get started. I appreciate the response and all the great help I've received on the forum. Larry

My wife has asked me to make her a checkbook wallet. She wants a place for credit cards, currency and a checkbook with register. She wants a snap closure. Probably a short tab with a snap. I don't want the kits I've seen as I want to sew the parts and not lace them. Where is the best place to find the insides for a checkbook wallet? I've seen a roper wallet with a checkbook, would something like that work? Thanks everyone, Larry

Very nice work, Monk. Leather crafts are new to me also. I can see each holster I make is a little better than the last. Keep it up and congratulations again on a nice looking holster. Larry

Thanks Okie44 I'll check it out. It's sure worth looking in to. Lobo, thanks for the tip. Wet forming the loops will also help when I go to stitching them in place. Also, thanks for the compliment on the holster. Coming from you means a lot.

Thanks, Marc and Dave for the help. After a couple of days and a lot of trial and error, I think I finally got it. I went with Marc's method because it worked out a little better for me. But Dave's method is good too. I have a cowboy rig done by Bill Weaver from Oklahoma (Leather, Guns & Etc.) and he used slots for the loops on my rig. He did a great job, as anyone who knows Bill will agree. I actually worked out measurements for the location of the stitching holes and cut my pieces then punched the holes with a 4 pronged diamond hole punch. Put it in my stitching horse and when I pulled the stitches tight the loops came right into position. The cartridges are real snug. I used the welt, folded over and glued. This is my first one and since its still new to me, my stitches are a little sloppy. My name is not centered and there are other things, but I just wanted to get one completed so I would know what to expect. I plan to make a good one and will take more time with it now that I know how it all goes together. Thanks again. Larry

I tried to make a pattern out of paper for a 6 cartridge belt slide for .357 mag and not having any luck. I tried making one out of scraps just to see how it might be done. I didn’t realize it was such a technique to it. Can someone help me out with some instructions or a source for how to do one? I’ve seen some pictures on the forum of some beautiful rigs with holster, belt and a slide that matches. Thanks everyone, this is all still very new to me. I’ve made the holster. Thanks again. Larry

See what I mean Pete, you can't help but learn on this forum. Lobo, I do remember now seeing that it was S.D. Myres who originally did his holsters. The "1920" that El Paso Saddlery does is the Threeperson and then they do a "1930" that was contributed to either Elmer Keith or Ed McGivern but I can't remember which. In any event the history behind these holster make them that much more interesting when I plan to make one (even though I've only made five). Thanks Lobo, for the information and the help you have given me as I try to learn holster making. Larry

particle, I can't give you any advice since I just finished my fifth holster myself. I would like to say that you sure have done wonders for just your fifth holster. It looks like you have found your calling. Great work, keep it up, it's good to see pictures of fine holsters. Larry

MBOGO, that is one beautiful holster. A real work of art. I plan on staying with it and get plenty of practice and do some more holsters. Where did you connect the other end of the strap on the back side of the holster. If you look at my layout, the only place I have to put the snap in the back is on the belt loop. Lobo, suggested going a little in front of the belt loop. I would have to do that on my next holster. I did make a mistake and didn't do the forward cant. I didn't notice until too late. I like the strap and will plan better for it on the next holster. I'm don't know what a toeplug is, but I used a welt all the way down. Three pieces thick and the barrel still pushes out a little.

Pete, an Indian by the name of Tom Threepersons, born in Oklahoma in 1889, became a lawman in the 1920's. He designed this holster and El Paso Saddelry made it for him. They still make it to this day and it is called "The 1920". You can see it on their web page. It became the standard for most of law enforcement for many years including some of the Texas Ranges. That's the short story, but it is interesting to me. I like the history behind the holster. When I said in my original post that most everything I know about leather work I learned right here, well, that goes for the Tom Threepersons story too. I learn about him and his holster from the guys on this forum. Google "Tom Threepersons" and you can see one of his original holsters.

I finished my Tom Threeperson design holster and have pictures with my S&W Mod. 19 and my Mod. 66 in it. I always felt that each handgun should have its own holster, so I guess I'll get started on Tom Threeperson number 2. This is my fifth holster and my first one with tooling. Some of my lines are not smooth and flowing like I know I can make them, but there is a learning curve involved as we all know so well. I used up a bunch of leather practicing and still need a bunch more. Every time I make a holster, I learn something, and it is usually from you guys. I want to thank you all for the help. Larry

Thanks, Lobo, for taking the time to educate a newbie. It sure takes the peak out of the learning curve (and saves a lot of leather). Thanks again, Larry.

Lobo, I would like to put a strap with snaps on my holster and I can see by the pictures where the snap goes on the front, but where did you put it on the back. I was thinking on the belt loop maybe, but not sure. Thanks, Larry