Cowboymade

Yeah, that could be worth something. I'll shoot HIGH and therefore we can come down, depending on whether or not his eye starts twitching.......

I like this statement on another thread But I thought I'd still ask. I've been approached in the matter of being commissioned for art work for a bands Album cover. That means I would be tooling out a piece of leather the size of an record album and could be a lot of detail in the Sheridan style with 13 letters hand carved for the bands name and probably the name of the album of which I would prefer stamped letters. I've carved out super detail before but this is for a piece of work that will be seen my many unlike a bag or portfolio. Any idea on prices, its for a friend but have to draw the line on something that takes awhile to do. Much obliged to everyone's reply in advance. This business is becoming my only one!!!! yeah!!

Much obliged for all the nice comments. The buckles are from Tandy but the snaps are from Ace Hardware.

Finishing up a purse made of Tandy's Kodiak oil tanned leather. I've always used the clear finish on veg tan of course but I was wondering if using it on oil tanned leather has any benefit. I'm sure the marble disappearing act with the oil tan will still happen but will the finish ad anything to the look. Tested a small piece an hour ago but that's no indication of the long run. (Marble look= when you fold or rub your fingernail across the leather it lights up but usually goes away.)

I searched for awhile but couldn't find an answer so here's my question. I'm going to attempt my first jacket. If you have seen the movie, Desperado, remake of El Mariachi. Antonio Banderas wears a basic dark brown suede jacket loosely based on the Mariachis jacket of today. I checked Tandy and I believe that was a 4 oz suede leather. There web site will say 2 to 3.5 oz for garment leather. Zack White has that weight priced much less and the quality is usually way better than Tandy. So, if you've had experience with a 2 to 3.5 oz. weight suede leather used as a jacket or similar application please let me know your thoughts. Much obliged to ya.

I was thinking of doing something more in the lines like this. Probably 4 oz premium veg tan

all hand made, stitched etc. she doesn't use it so I will. Great comments from strangers.

All my work has been done by hand, devoid of machinery. I picked up this Singer 31 - 15 from a Custom Boot maker friend with the idea that I was going to start doing the custom design sewing on the boot tops. Since then nothing has materialize, I didn't learn how to sew therefore I'm parting with the unit. Its in great condition. The table top has some warping of the top veneer layer that is not bad. New cord on the motor, overall a very good machine. Because I haven't used it, I can say it was working fine when I picked it up. I've tried a couple times to learn but......I need to move on. Located in Raleigh, NC and I will not ship. $450.00 total. Local store has one for $395 but no motor or table comes with it. Pay Pal or Cash accepted. Much obliged for looking

Much obliged for all the replies. Trying not to make this out to more than it is. I went to the local art supply store and found what they call styrene sheets, small, clear, gold or silver. The best part is it will not get eaten up by glue. And yes I agree not to glue the piece to the guitar.

I just finished a leather tooled Telecaster pick guard, well sort of and that's why I'm here. I found one company that "factory" makes them and they say the leather is backed with vulcanized fiber. After looking around I've found websites with the vulcanized fiber material but their manufactures. Ebay has it but there in small quanities used for making knives. Has anyone ever used or tried this or what are you using to stiffen the leather. The leather I used to make it with is 4/5 oz which doesn't leave much room in thickness as you don't want to raise the pick guard up much and interfere with the strings of the guitar. I'm thinking if I don't back it with something that eventually the leather will warp and stick out from the guitar where the screws are not holding it down. If it was my guitar I'd just glue the leather to the guitar but you can't expect a customer to go with that method. Any help in how to achieve this is much appreciated. Maybe just simple plastic will do but again it may be too flimsy (remember the thickness limit)

http://www.lucchese.com/pages.php?id=12 The above link will give you an idea of what I'm trying to achieve. I work with a custom Cowboy Boot maker and I'm commissioned to do the shafts of the boots. First tooled, many hours but that's the easy part. I checked with the local Tandy Man about the following process. 1. I'm painting in the tooling with Silver. 2. He told me to use Super Sheen to seal it, THREE Coats allowing each coat to dry. 3. Gel Antique Black over the Silver paint ( tooled area ) hoping to get the tooling to POP out. 4. Black Stain the rest of the Shafts, cutting in the tooled area first. 5. Super Sheen the entire Shafts. Does this sound right? I've practiced the steps and it appears to work but I'd like to get any input as to weather or not there is an other step that needs to be done or any hurdles that I should watch out for. All the products are of Tandy. Much obliged for the replies. For the curious the vamps are in Black Sharkskin. I've done some searching on the forum as this is probably here somewhere but less time on the computer is more time to the boots.