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JLSleather

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Posts posted by JLSleather

  3. Posted · Report reply

    you'll want to spread the difference over 3 er 4 stitches, so you don' t have 1 or 2 real short, very obvious ones.  It's worse at a corner.

    Generally, for soemthing like what you have in the pic, I would mark with an overstitch wheel starting from the point working backwards, so that the TURN comes out correct.  You can "fudge' a few stitches before getting to the corner, and you'l be fine.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/14/2024 at 7:26 AM, bladegrinder said:

    It’s ok to add these straps without the spring steel isn’t it? I’m not doing liners on my holsters yet.

    You CAN, but the spring makes it nicer to use.  Gives the thing something firm to push on.  A guy could use an additional piece of cowhide in the shape of the metal too.  And put on the outside, wouldnt' really need to be lined.  I LIKE 'em lined, because i can recess the snap into the lining, helping it clear the pistol better.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I generally and usually and normally and routinely and consistently (and prolly some other ly's) advise NOT to use ant-streak on leather.  But on "figure carving" I DEFINITELY WARN against it.  Just don't belong on 'figures' at all.

    That said, I think you could benefit greatly from seeing Stohlman's book on figure carving, specifically look at 'matting" and double beveling.  Still, your knife cuts look good n smooth :thumbsup:

    Maybe this helps? Figures here also from "craftaid" templates.
    b.jpge.jpg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    2 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

    Yeah I got a lot to learn on this beast. I've watched a few vids where they say the stirrup plate is good for sewing gussets on a 90° corner. For bags & such. 

    yeah, prolly work there, long as the land is wide enough.  Mostly on chrome-tanned bags, I would think. Assuming we're talking about the same type of bag, a 90° on a veg-tanned edge would likely cause a "booger" (wrinkle) I would find unacceptable.

    Still, it may be of use for like gussets on notebooks/binders?

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/13/2024 at 7:30 PM, DieselTech said:

    What's your thoughts on bonded nylon over bonded polyester for machine sewing.

    Is 1 thread more forgiving than the other? 

    Do you like 1 over the other thread? 

    Thanks. 

    One is a six, the other seem more like half a dozen.  I've had customers ask, and I tell 'em by the time either wears out, send it back and I'll replace the stitchin' in it - you just pay the shippin'.

    They DO sew a bit different, barely, if I'm tellin' the story.  EITHER is fine - but you might notice when switching from one to the other you might adjust the tension just a tad, even with the same weight of thread.

    Again, I have and use both, so ...

    Originally, I used nylon for no other reason than that's what I had on hand.  I "tried" poly thread because it was available in a color I wanted and the nylon was not, at least with my regular supply stores.  The difference in use is minimal... almost none .. and I dont know there's much difference in the wear of it either.  Somebody said that somebody said poly might be a bit more UV-resistant... but that same 'they' also tell you that tooled leather needs ant-streak and theyz WMD in Iraq ...

  8. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, LiftPig said:

    Hold the phone!  Are those holster plates WITH feed dogs?!?  

    I didn't find I use the "holster" or "stirrup" plates nearly as much as I thought I would. With just a little thought, the standard plate does prett much all of that.  I suppose if you were trying to sew next to a metal clip.... :dunno:

  9. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/14/2024 at 7:26 PM, bladegrinder said:

    They may be good for purchasing in store but they've been taken off my list for mail order, as far as leather goes.

    Correct.  I've got a few decent pieces from there, but they were the exception.  I would call and complain, they would apologize for the "mistake", send me a different piece.  But I was spending SO much time on the phone with them, it just  became not worth it.  They didn't seem to understand that I KNOW what H.O. A and B grade looks like - usually that's what I would order and use SLC for the ocassional odd weight.  Like as in I don't use a lot of 5/6, so instead of buying multiple sides from H.O., I would order 7/8 at H.O. and use SLC for the ocassional 5/6 or 4/5.  I got one side of 5/6  I could stretch a 1.5" wide strap by hand.

    ANYWAY....

    Wickett/Craig has good leather, I've made a lot of holsters from their skirting leathers.  That in mind, I have had a few issues with W/C as well, though not nearly as often.  More than once I called to remind them that I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium.

    If you want to go with H.O. but don't want to buy minimum 10 sides, I always recommend Goliger Leather.  It's a bit higher cost than some places, but they have ALWAYS sent me great leather.  NEVER ONCE a piece I wasn't happy with.

    http://www.goligerleather.us/

     

  11. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    On 3/14/2024 at 5:22 PM, DieselTech said:

    Thanks JLS, Is the LL point a diamond shaped needle or is it a triangle pointed needle?

    I think I will get some LR needles for bags & such, just for the decorative stitch. 

    I think for holsters & sheaths the LL needle would be better suited for them. 

    Thanks.

    yup. LL is a diamond hole.  I don't much like the "D" of "S" needles, as they make a hole I think is not as strong in teh direction of sewing, and I don't like the way it leaves "space" between stitches.

    EDIT TO ADD:  I like a #24 needle, 277 thread on the "top" and 207 on the bottom MOST of the time (I have been known to sew 207/207).  The pics above were #24 needles.

    22 hours ago, DieselTech said:

    I've heard their customer service & support is good. I'm hoping I never need it thou. 

    yes, you certainly are.  I found the service at LMC more hype than reality.  I remember a post about it disappearing, prompting me to ask if advertisers here can get that done for them.  Meh - perhaps it's better now, it's  been a good while since I dealt with them. :dunno:

  12. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Hildebrand said:

    @DieselTech try this link,https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Organ-7X4NW-DYX3LL-794LL-Leather-Point-Sewing-Machine-Needles-Singer-Consew/400730390609?var=670274800836,  this is where I have been getting them, I think I use 24 for 277 thread.

    Todd

    exactly what i use - LL  point, #24

    pics show close up of the difference in a couple styles.  the LL and LR points are the SAME needle size, same thread size, and same stitch length.  The LR is kinda lacy and girlie, doesn't pull as deep, and makes the stitch LOOK longer (it isnt)

    teh LL pulls in deep, results in a very straight and tight stitch, with a hole geometry unlikey to tear.

    lll.jpgUntitled-3.jpg

  14. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    21 hours ago, bladegrinder said:

     do you use "pull the dot" snaps on those? and do you use those round plastic protectors on the inside of the snap?

    Yes, and yes. ;)

    USUALLY, a 'regular' line 24 snap, a piece of spring steel and a rivet, give the thing some substance to push on. This one on the back of a 686 / Python holster.

    DSC00264.jpg

     

    22 hours ago, Mablung said:

    That might be part of my issue. It’s 6/7 oz Tandy either Economy or Craftsman single shoulder. Appreciate you checking!

    Busy again, but stil meaning to get back to this conversation. PM sent...

  15. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, Yellowhousejake said:

    ... concerned about the antique getting into the stitching ...want to do that same holster for a ... basketweave the holster body.

    DAve

    I wouldn't antique a basket stamped leather anything.  But then, I don't antique anything (save about twice where somebody threatened me with money if I would do that to the project, against my recommendation).

    If the moisture content of the leather is right, the burnish of the leather negates the need for ant-streak ;)

    That said, IF a guy was insistent on that goop, considering that type of holster, I would then grudgingly recommend ...

    • Cut out leather
    • Stamp
    • Line (if used)
    • Sew
    • Wet form
    • Allow to dry completely.
    • Oil if desired
    • Ant-streak, using a fingertip
    • TanKote or other top finish (I use resolene sometimes, sparingly)

     

     

     

  21. Posted · Report reply

    uh... I'm gonna guess at maybe I understood that.  Starting with.. 80/20 is a number I threw out there a few years back... it's not actually "calculated" to those numbers - just "about" that. Varies with the gun model, at least for me.  And yeah - the leading edge stitch line will often be RIGHT AT the edge of the pistol (probably most obvious with Glocks and other "square" pistols).  The trailing stitch line varies a bit depending on thickness of the gun, whether there are accessories mounted on it, etc.

    Gk26_P0.jpg

    This is the same Glock holster shown above ,you can see about how much break is in it.  It's not "flat" in the back, it actually curves beyond just flat to contour to the hip. Little harder to see since the pic was taken with a metal "dummy" that messed with the camera a bit.

     

    Free-Transform.jpgThis little Sig P238 right hand (green dummy gun) might show the difference with these smaller pistols, and the pic of the other is a P320 Compact (blue dummy) just to show that they are not all done "just" the same.

    P320_compact_P0.jpg

  22. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Mablung said:

    to remake an AIWB holster I made a while back, in part because I think it stretched around the stitch lines too much.

    i didnt' really follow this bit :head_hurts_kr:

    2 hours ago, Mablung said:

    some of which will come from improving my boning technique,

    not sure i'm addressing your issue here, either, but I'll say this.  I've seen SO many holsters where not much attention was given to the stitching placement, obviously.  Then they seemed to rely on "boning" to create the tension they wanted.  This will fairly quickly relax in and you end up with far less retention than desired.  ONLY time I have a stitch line not meticulously placed is either 1) Im' making a traditional 'western' holster and want to keep the look, or 2) I'm using tension screws w/ grommets.  In all other cases, I want that stitch EXACTLY where it belongs.

    This was another issue I had with adams' patterns - stitch lines weren't particularly thought out.  When I attempted - more than once - to discuss that with the guy who made them, I was met with an excessively defensive response.  Meh.  I dont care WHO lays it out - I don't want holsters with a stitch line 1/4" or more from the weapon. :rolleyes2:

    Sharpen.jpgThis one went to CA a long time ago, but I use the pics for discussion. This was for a Glock 27 (or was it a  26... I'd have to check records).  The customer asked for TOOLED, MONCHROME, THUMB SAFETY STRAP, and that '80/20' design style.

    These pics show the 80/20 shape, but also the tooling shows i knew exactly where the stitching would land before making it.  Note the liner was NOT dyed.

    The bottom corner shows "craftool" numbers - somewher along the line somebody wanted to know which tools I used on this.

    AND THERE is a bit of the issue with making these other patterns available.  What to put out, and in what way, and for how much?  Include the tooling pattern, or no?  A guy could get SO detailed as to come with a formula - or 'recipe" - for that shade of brown and the thread used to match :head_hurts_kr:

    WHO was it recently... asked about a P320 mag pattern off cutesy.  Apparently I laid that one out to go with the 80/20 holster, so I din't realize that folks might want the 50/50 version of that.  I do like to make the more stout mag carriers on a curve... like this P320, many of the Glocks, .. whereas a flatter mag like most 1911's isn't necessary.

    9 hours ago, wayner said:

    I have patterns from both

    :mad:

  23. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, remotelarry said:

    Jeff, I disagree

    okay ;)

    14 hours ago, remotelarry said:

    the gripe I have with his patterns is they are 50/50 pancakes

    as are many of mine :whistle:  I do make them NOT that and have had multiple requests to offer them.  SOME of them are in PDF form now, still working ...

    MY point in them was the value of the user learning to design their OWN, and these "50/50" models do that very well (did I invent that term? maybe...).  WHERE IS them pdf's....

    Oh, here we go.. might help with the original question.  I do need to get these files all combined into one... so theyz tgether and in order.... For now, I recommend the order here for understanableness... ;)

    Holster_Theory.pdf

    PancakeLayout.pdf

    IWBa.pdf

    AvengerLayout.pdf

    • Theory
    • Pancake
    • IWB
    • Avenger

     

  24. Posted · Edited by JLSleather · Report reply

    On 3/3/2024 at 10:46 PM, Hags said:

    Adams leatherwork has a lot of good videos on holster making ...

    I disagree.  This guy is gabby, and the intent of the video seems aimed more at keeping you on the site than actually discussing holsters.  Take forever to "explain" the most basic act, appears to intentionally drag out the simplest idea.  Gabby.

    On 3/4/2024 at 11:06 AM, tsunkasapa said:

    Al Stohlman's book shows ow to design them from scratch.

    Image result for how to make holsters by al stohlman

    The STohlman book is VERY good. Even if you're not making teh holsters shown, the PRINCIPLES are still valid.

    ANd check out the "tutorial" on holsters in the holster section - PDF by Jim Simmons ... good stuff in there as well.

    And SOMEWHERE around here are some PDF's I wrote a while back about LAYING OUT your own holster, and why it works.  They're free, so if somebody beats me to it and provides them that's fine. ;)

     

    On 3/3/2024 at 7:58 PM, JLopez38 said:

    compact semi-auto, designed for owb CC,

    which one?

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