JLSleather
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Posts posted by JLSleather
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A photo of where you're trying to go would help. USED to be, a "bill-fold" was 9 1/4" x 3 3/8" and folded in half, and a "bi-fold" was 7 1/4" x 4 1/2" and folded in half. So it obviously matters which one you're trying to make. These days, I guess folks 'er calling this a "bi-fold". This what you're trying to do?
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Doesn't like to pull the lock stitch into the center. Bottom thread not pulled up far enough. NEW tension assembly didn't really make any difference. New bobbins and bobbin cases ... same thing. Thread size doesn't seem to matter. I'm using it, but the thing is so moody that I have to "organize" a bit much ... as in sew ALL of that type of leather I need sewed in the near future before changing to something else. Just too much trouble to put it back again.
Here's the irritating part... really no money in this thing but I certainly wouldn't trust it to sew a project I have hours of carving/painting in. Then, I've never really minded hand sewing, but after ordering three different awls from three different places - all of which were useless until you regrind them ("sharpen" doesn't cover it) - it just added to the aggravation. I ordered leather from "40 years experience" and got a hide that I wouldn't use for a drop cloth. These and other "new" items were just waste-of-my-time irritations, but I'm unlikely to be so forgiving if I spent $2k on a new machine and got the same "service". A "guarantee" that I can return it is useless to me - just means I killed time twice.
So, I'm done letting it stress me out. I could have spent the wasted time making other projects for the upcoming show and easily made more than I invested in this thing. Pro'lly just throw it in somewhere out of the way in case I ever need parts - or a place to clean some fish. Please don't invest your time in diagnosing the machine - I'm done with it. I'd sell it for what I have in it, but honestly can't be bothered to ship it. All this other stuff was just wondering out loud if anybody else is seeing the same things.
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I got an issue with this 16-188 too (I THINK it's just BEFORE the 111). Killed a day picking it up, another day messing with the tension, another day ordering parts, one more day having it checked out. It works, but I can't seem to keep the tension adjusted.
At this point, the time I lost is worth more to me than the money I have in it. With four days, I could have profited more at the upcoming leather sale than this cost me. Ordered several sewing awls, figured I'd get some done by hand while waiting on the machine. Wouldn't you know it, every one of them dull. What happened to the "old days", when new meant working?
I spent $100 and got some dull metal. I spent several $100 and got a machine that sews OK if you have the patience (and a good bit of the same leather you're using) to set it up repeatedly. All of this has me pretty much gunshy about buying a machine. But, I NEED to have things sewn, so I'm not really sure where to go from here. In the process of calling around to get this machine serviced, I got alot of "we don't do that any more", so I assume it would be the same with the new machine.
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Who carries leather needles for this Singer 16-188?
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FOLD your pattern material, then cut one side of the pattern line, cutting through both layers. When you unfold it, it WILL match.
NOTE: You'll want to measure/mark the INSIDE of your pattern. This will make it fit your item. The thicker the material, the farther off it will be on the outside. Think of it this way... you make a 12" x 12" x 12" box from 1/8" thick masonite. Inside of the box measures 11 7/8 x 11 7/8 x 11 7/8. Make the same size box out of 3/4" lumber, inside the box is now only 11 1/4". Leather the same way. Any type of case that is going to custom fit the item should be made with the INSIDE dimensions in mind.
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Hey, Bill-
If that's an "expensive' lesson, I'd say you must be living right! I can honestly say I don't make MANY mistakes, but when I make one it's usually WAY more than $35. Not that I'm proud of it, just by way of giving you an "attaboy"!
Now that I'm thinking about it, the stitches in my finger are definitely NOT going to be in the $30 range. That was me, failing an idiot test
Note to self: put down any knives BEFORE sorting the stuff on the table ... -
Really irritated that I can't seem to find some plain english information on sewing leather. SO, I'll throw this out once, see what happens.
I used to enjoy hand-sewing leather (no, really). Awl got busted up, so I ordered a new one. Came with dull blades. Too much to do at the moment to sharpen them, so I ordered more blades from a different supplier. Guess -- yeah, dull as... Ordered from yet another supplier -- the blades don't fit the haft. Ordered one of those little stitching pony things from the Tandy store down the road. This thing is ridiculous ... whole thing is so twisted that it only clamps on one corner. English doesn't have words for this situation ... NO way this should be this big a pain.
Got this Singer 16-188 machine, used and [apparently] reasonable. I don't sew with a machine, so I'm assuming I'll destroy some leather, ... fine. A few new parts, under $100, and maybe $100 worth of lightweight leather.
But I'm about frustrated with the whole thing. Recognizing that it's possibly operator problem, I kept trying to adjust this n that. When the thread tension is "buggered" on the bottom, is it the top tension, bobbin tension, needle, thread, ... manual is pathetic, what I could even find.
Wife called a place about an hour from here, says they "service" these machines. I drove 10 miles PAST this place to pick it up. My fault, I suppose ... had I known that at the time I would have let them service it BEFORE I brought it home.
In the end, I just want to sew small items -- wallets about heavy as it would get. 3/4 oz carving leather, and 3 layers of 2 oz chrome tanned lining. And my wife has purchased some garment hides her and the girls from work want purses made from. Should be simple, right??? By now I've messed with the thing enough that I'm behind on the other stuff. Knowing I could have hand-sewn some stuff with a decent awl blade has got me picturing that hammer in the cabinet.
So I click, click, click through the leather machines site, and get a page that says to call us. Wow.
SO --
1.) anybody can tell me where to get a decent awl haft that comes with sharp blades?
2.) how many machines should it take to sew - say - up to 10 oz leather?
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Anybody ever buy Tandy's "lacing pliers"?
You can get the same thing at harbor freight for .99 cents ... only they call it a needle-nose pliers. Tandy's were just under $10 for a while.Even MORE obnoxious, Ebay is full of people selling Tandy stuff that has been marked up AGAIN! And people are BUYING it ???
If you're making small projects (wallets/checkbooks/clutch) S-T's goat lining just can't be beat for the money. TOUGH, and BEAUTIFUL.
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Bill - I had this problem with these spirit dyes, LONG time ago. They contain a sediment, basically little color "flakes". This is oversimplified, but these "flakes" suspend in the reducer. Some of the particles were either too large or too many to be absorbed. The darker colors are worse than the lighter.
I would suggest that you let them settle out (NOT shaking/mixing it in). Siphon the dye from the bottle without sucking up the plates from the bottom, put it in a different bottle. I still use these dyes, haven't seen that issue in a long time. Saves MOST of the dye.
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I haven't used the W&C, but I have part of a side of 3/4 oz Royal Meadow I'm working on now. Good leather, I picked through a dozen hides, and they were all pretty good looking. But, I paid over $6/foot, and that was the "wholesale" price. Would have liked to pay a little less, but I've mail ordered from some others and didn't like what I got (in fact, one guy I will NOT buy from again - I'd hang up the tools first). Max is right about the Tandy stuff, too... I paid the $6/foot because there was nothing else in the store worth buying, leather wise. And King is right, it's very "blonde" ... but I happen to like that.
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I think you're on to something here. Those of us who work with leather already have most of the tools we need, so our "cost" for a new holster is a chunk of leather, which is likely less than $20 for some really nice cowhide ('course, we buy $125 and cut it out).
If leathercraft is something you're interested in, then there is alot of information and assistance around here. If what you want is one holster, then you probably want to purchase a finished one. I'm not familiar with the ones you displayed. They certainly look good, but I have no idea about the quality. One note from the "odd" guy ... while I LIKE hand-crafted, I will NOT say that hand-made is necessarily better than "commercial". I cut with a knife, "they" cut with a die -- doesn't really matter.
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Here's some stuff, which may give you some insight as to the "why"...
I use 3/4 oz leather for carved bilfolds AND checkbooks. Lined with 1 1/2-2 oz ... goat when I can get it but calf will work. For these small projects (or smaller, like key cases) that I'm going to paint only, I'll step down to a 2/3 oz back and use the same lining. I don't want a wallet that's more than an inch or so thick before I put anything in it. ALSO 3/4 for clutch purses, though I have been known to use a 4/5, since it's not going in somebody's pocket.
I like a belt to be 8-10 oz TOTAL, so if it's lined I'm likely to use a 6/7 with a 2/3 lining. Carving still good and deep, and lining has some substance. There's only a couple of times I could think of for a belt heavier than that ...
ONCE made a belt was about 12 oz total for a guy with a 52" waist. Not that it needed to be that heavy to hold his britches, but a thinner belt wouldn't have looked "natural" on a fella that size (consider the opposite - 9/10 oz leather doesn't make a great looking 3/4" strap).
Weightlifting belts are generally 18 oz total, give or take. I made a double-holster western rig for this big fella with a set of matching .44's that was about 12 oz, with the holsters 9oz with a 2 oz lining and 9/10 oz ranger style billets. Carrying a good bit of weight, but then it's 2 1/2" wide (closer to 4" where the holsters sit).
If you have a truck that needs pulled out of the mud or snow. But then, I have a chain and tow strap, so this is not an issue.
And handbags, I really don't think you can say ONE weight. Smaller bags - say up to about 10-12", I want them to be about 6-8 oz total, including the lining. Very large bags, which you don't see too much any more, MIGHT go 8-9 oz (total) if they're spanning some distance (nothing in between supporting it). Beyond that, might as well make it out of wood, cuz you kin knock on it the same way.
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Depends on how heavy you're looking for. The Leather Guy had some stuff the other day in an "antiqued" or "marbled" brown tones. Nice looking 3 oz or so. They're in the directory.
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I know that feeling ... airbrush seals went out the other day, and "puked" dark brown die all over the project. SOME notice would have been nice ???
Just a man's wallet, so not alot of money invested, but there goes an afternoon. Naturally, it's the one that has to be done by Saturday for the guy's birthday ....
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Got a couple of these, and I don't really want to work with them. 1 Revival Bag, I Pacesetter Bag
All linings and hardware included. I'm not going to make them, and they're in my way. Need to be gone by next week.
$50 each, or $85 for the pair, includes shipping (U.S.).
Yeah, I kin send a photo, but not gonna post pics here unless there's an interest.
Oh, wait ... make that 3 of 'em. There's this "possibles bag" thing, don't know why I have it at all. Brand new, never assembled, buy the other two and you can have it.
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Okay, in the interest of speed, I've thrown this thing at a piece of posterboard.
1.) The first photo will show an outline of the clutch.. The paper is heavy Bristol that I'll paint on until it's filthy and then replace. The rose is a plastic or mylar stencil sheet you can get at about any craft store, and Wild Rose's pattern, somewhere on LW. The movable stencil is half a sheet of paper from the printer where I've drawn and cut 1 ½" half circles. Could have been a little smaller, suggesting finer detail, but too small and it looks "busy". In real time, I would have rubber cemented the clutch to the poster board, since it's getting lined anyway I don't care if it's sticky. Let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it, or you'll be pulling paper with it (so I've heard). Note the pencil mark on the paper stencil.
2.) This is the "negative" of the movable stencil (which from now on will be MS). It's what you get by holding the MS against the board and blast dye straight at it.
3.) Here, I've started the spray. I put the MS roughly square to the project with the pencil mark lining up with one side and just the "tips" on the project. Spray across the bottoms of the circles heavily, and then go back the other way in "arcs", tapering the color towards the top. The amount of color is up to you; just keep it a bit rich in the bottoms. Then move the MS down "some" - again up to you. This is about 3/8", though nothing is measured. Spray again, the same way.
4.) What it starts to look like. Just "eyeball" the spacing (I think it looks better if they're NOT exact). Note I'm gonna start "bleeding" it off to one side. You could run the design straight through, but I think this looks nicer AND less automated. You see the pencil mark no longer in line with the edge.
5.) The DON'T pic. This is what happens if you spray too much color at once. It builds up on the MS and bleeds to your project. Always "sneak up" on the shade you want.
6.) Still bleeding to the right. Note the tips aren't in line, but you can still see it. This is going to cause the "wander" in the design. Also shows the rough step distance I used.
7.) My butt out of the way so you can see how the entire design bleeds to one side. Basketweave stampers, you know what I'm talking about. You want this to be gradual, and if you keep the last run in the sights, it'll be fine. This one bleeds right only because I'm right handed and trying to stay out of the way. Keep in mind where the bottom is, cuz we're gonna try to get back directly under and in line with the top, without any sudden shifts.
8.) About here, I'm gonna start tapering the shade more. Same color in the bottom "tips", less at the top. Doesn't matter at the design, but I'm keeping in mind that the clutch will have its top fold about here, and this will create the illusion of hi-lite.
9.) Here you'll clearly see the hi-lite I'm talking about. Pay no attention to the gray line across the top, that's a bend in the paper.
10.) I've zipped across the rest just to show some other shades. Note that I "bled" back to the LEFT, gradually. I want to end up pretty much with my pencil mark back on the edge. The red lines added show close. Close is good if you're lacing. You want even closer if you're stitching … if you fold the clutch (the way it will be seen MOST of the time) and it doesn't line up, you'll look like you either didn't know what you were doing or didn't care (so I've heard).
11.) Pull the Mylar rose. That "ratty" look won't happen if you let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it.
Full photos here
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Don't follow me TOO far into the ditch, Ron ... you've heard about the blind leading the blind
Oh, kin I git ya to use the "reply" button, instead of the "quote" button? THis will be a bit long-winded, and some of the techies will no doubt appreciate it
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Lots o' folks asking me about the lazy man's clutch wallet. I have a sick little boy today, so I'm gonna split this in chapters of sorts to let 'im sleep, hope that's okay… Call this the preamble…
NEEDED: 3 oz cow 'er calf back (same as "Phoenix" clutch kit, I just don't like their "innards"), mask or stencil of your flower, a piece of paper (steel one from your printer, it'll be fine for one use), The Fiebing's dye was...
"background" -- dark brown (full strength) and
the rose -- red (not dark red) thinned "about" 6:1 with solvent and
the stems/leaves -- mixed "about" 3 parts green, 1 part dark brown, 6 parts solvent.
NOTES ON DYES:
I say "about" because the stuff is alcohol, and some will no doubt evaporate when the jar is open. Color (sediment/pigment) stays, solvent evaporates, so the more it's open the darker it gets. Couple of hours isn't gonna show alot of change. Maybe if you use the mix a dozen times... and, the browns will come out slower than the lighter colors, and WAY slower than the solvent, so when it changes, it'll be DARKER (and maybe just a little THICKER).
I sprayed this, so if you're using a brush, might wanna thin it a bit further.
Fiebing's dark brown shows a distinctively reddish tint; more obvious the more it's thinned. I really like this type of effect done in chocolate – which is more brown – but I used the dark brown because I was going to paint red stuff, and I hoped it would "flow" a little better with the overall look. Just a "whatif"… like "whatif" I was gonna do the rose yellow, I mighta used the chocolate …
Not all leather is tanned the same, even two hides you ordered from the same place at the same time. Word to the wise, no excuse for not testing your color on a piece of scrap FROM THE HIDE your project is cut from -- might match, might not. In this case, it's a FLOWER and and EFFECT, neither of which was a critical shade.
For all these reasons and some others, I only mix about an ounce at a time.
Some folks have been asking me if this was done "freehand". Yes and no. I "freehanded" inside the rose, but only after masking the rose and painting the background effect. For some reason, folks get the idea that "good" painters "freehand". Here's the truth … you will NOT get that hard edge by "freehand". Period. For more information on colors/hard edges, I'm gonna refer you to Kate, who is clearly better 'n' me, and who I may have a shot at appeasing with a relatively inexpensive consolation prize
Kate …? Kate …?
More when Junior is awake and Mom is back, so I kin turn on the compressor. One disclaimer … a quick proofread of this has got me thinkin' the fella what wrote this sounds a bit sensitive, and if'n I met 'im, I ain't sure I'd hang out with 'im …
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Hard to vote, since I never buy more than a couple hides at a time. Just don't have the room to store a bunch of stuff.
And, I've yet to try the herman oak, though with the reviews it gets around here I intend to (same issue, no point buying more JUST yet).
And, I never buy a "C" or "D" (though I have ordered a "B" and GOT a "D"). For the difference in cost, it's just not worth it. A side of low grade stuff, when for an extra $20-30 I coulda got some better stuff, just don't work fer me.
But I checked the site, LOVE the holsters. Nice color, nice sheen, purdy stitchin' ...
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Clean tension disks, replace bobbin case. Got it. THANKS, everybody!
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Found an ID plate, says 16-188
Maybe you can see from the photos, the top side looks like it was OK (if it was done by a child). Back side is good for a biti, then out of nowhere leaves these goofy "loops". Weird, it doesn't do it all the time. Included photo of end of machine, odd chance I threaded wrong.
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Wow. Fella kaint say that aint raised ... only way it gets more embossed is you leave the hide on the cow and hit him with bevelers
Nice color, too!
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Picked up a dinosaur today, well, older than me, anyway. Old singer machine.
I got it to the house, plugged it in, fine. Messed with it for a while and got it to stop breaking the top thread every so often. "Tuned" (meaning I poke-n-hoped) 'til I got a decent stitch on both side of the stuff, lockstitch.
BUT, maybe it's normal, and maybe I have one or more worn parts. I stitch, adjust needle tension, and it's fine. I stop. When I start again, maybe it's fine, and maybe it's not. GUESSING that my tension adjustment hadn't worked it's way out yet?
Question is, where do I start to troubleshoot? I'm not totally ignorant of machine stitching ... most of my shirts have some. And there was that class in high school (30 years ago) where I managed to get into a class with me and 30 girls (not conducive to sewing lessons for a teenage boy).
I ain't sure of the model, told it's a Singer series 16. I know the thread is a 69 (which MIGHT be correct for wallet/clutch liners). And, if somebody around here knows stuff, I'll take a photo of the stitching if that helps. Oh, yeah ... one of those runs across some 4 oz veggie leather, it wanted to curl UPWARD. Is this (guessing again) INsuffcient tension at needle, EXcessive tension at bobbin ... something else?????
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Used to be a book around, think it was like "Projects and Designs" or something like that. Might have been volume 2. Had a handbag in there they called Leisure Times. Paypal same day if anyone has it.
Billfold Wallet Inserts.
in Patterns and Templates
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All the older patterns, including craftaids, assumed that style was 9 1/4" x 3 3/8" and used 3/4 oz leather backing (I think the 4/5 oz is considerably too thick for a wallet). Anyway, the liner was then made from 1 1/2 - 2 oz chrome tanned, usually calf or goat. No notches. The sides were made 6" x 4" and then folded in half to 3" x 4", leaving an inch between them. The 1/4" shorter made the wallet bow slightly, which keeps it from "bunching". Tough to sew on a flatbed machine, but otherwise works well.