Indy

So far it seems to wash out with regular water well. I think I will keep washing it till no more sticky residue comes off. What ever remains which does not come off from water, should be fine for outdoor use. I agree with rather not going for acetone or similar as I used several layers of regular Tandy leather dyes. I am all in for all sorts of beeswax balms. I use pecards right know, but I have been very keen on B&E Beeswax Balm. However, I never dared to seal off a floral carving with antique finish on it, if I wanted to have strong contrasts. I am afraid during the cleaning, the antique finish will come off as well and needs to be redone. No more Tan Kote for this project, that's for sure.

thanks for your input. Thats basically the same conclusion I made in the end. Since everything is in there already, I only have the option to put another coat of something on it. Since This should be the very last layer (this time for real), I am considering acrylic resolen by Tandy. Alternatively, I could try to wash out the Tan Kote first. What's your thought to that?

Hi guys, I am on this board since a long time and decided recently to become a bit more active again, as my leather work becomes more frequent again I am working on a larger archery set right now. I work with veg. cow, Tandy leather dyes, neatsfoot oil, 1/2 antique finish 1/2 Tan Kote, Tan Kote, edge kote, leather sheen, acrylic Resolene and pecards. This is the first time I ever worked with Tan Kote, so I believe my problem is routed with this residue mainly. The problem I have mainly emerges at the flesh side of the leather, this has been dyed with black Tandy leather dye, I put on apprx. 4 thick coats of Tan Kote. After that, I added neatsfoot oil (from both sides). As this has been proved to not be enough on the grain side as a water repellant basis, I also added one coat of leather sheen. Now I did the water test, holding it under a gently stream of tabea water. black paint came off immediately , the whole area which has been hoisted with water turned grayish, relieving a sticky, moist residue. personally, I hate surface sealing which are too shiny, but naturally, I can't have it that my customer will be drenched in black leather dye once he enters the rain. My personal next step would be to give another 24 hours of rest to the project and then add acrylic Resolene to the back and the edges to make them waterproof. As such a thing NEVER happened to me before, I believe the problem is routed in the Tan Kote. I would be very happy if someone has an idea of what is the actually problem here and how I can solve the issue.

unfortunaly the belt need to be at least 5cm (2") wide, so tapering the belt won't work. Thank you for the links, that might do the job

I had a few inquirys for broad gunbelts which shall be 5cm (approx. 2") in width. I am especcialy looking for blank, clipped corner buckles. I couldn't find any at tandy nor on ebay or the central European online stores I am familiar with. Anybody of you who knows where to get them? Can't be that hard, I suppose?

Hi there, I got an inquiry for a pair of saddle bags for a continental saddle. The saddle bags are not going to be very fancy in optic, they just need to match the saddle nice. Since it is my first project for western equistrian I could use some tipps and hints from you guys. Here is the saddle back itself: - how should the bags be made to tie them onto the saddle properly? Do I need to unscrew the conchos in the back to install some heavy laces? - the collour should be of the same collour. Do I need to seal the bags in a speccial way or am I fine with a treatment of oilive oil and leather bees wax balm? - what else do I need to consider? Any thoughts of riders or saddle makers would be of great help! thank you

Hi guys, a friend of mine gave me a large piece of beeswax. Since I use a lot of bees wax leather balm and started with carnuba balm aswell, I'd like to make my own stuff for conditioning leather and top coats. Can you recomend any recipe? I made some plaiting soap for bullwhips before, but that stuff isn't quit what I need, though I liked the fat in it. I also just started with olive oil to soften up the leather which turns out great. Is it of any good to mix wax, oil and a little bit of fat aswell?

guys, thank you a lot for all the info, that was quit a bit allready.I will wait now until all my liquids arrive at my doorstep and will play a little arround with the eco flo and my remaining Fiebings antique stain and fool around with your described sealing methods. I let you know how it goes

oops, allready ordered a qrt. gallon Could you describe what happened? Does it work with satin sheen spray aswell?

leather sheen spray sounds good to me, I think I'm going to give it a try. I'm was just looking through tandy's liquids section and realized that they don't sell "antique stain" any longer. I guess eco-flo is more or less the same, isn't it?

allready tried. still too shiny

very nice and lifelike brandwork, even the antlers look grown!

just saw your reply, sorry for answering so late. Right know I'm good with seats, but I might come back to you if I saddle up the next steel horse thank you

I just wanted to place an order at tandy leather UK when I realized that it is stated there that they can't ship me leather dyes to Austria. I really want to order many quarter bottles of collour this time but every retailer here in Austria and in germany is at least 3 times more expensive than ordering straight at tendys. Does anyone of you know how to deal with this issue? thank you, Daniel

Hi guys, I don't know if that has been discussed here before, just couldn't find a post about it. Last month I made more than 40 bags, pouches and large seamans bags. They really needed to look well used and beaten up,so I colloured them all differently, edge shaded them and some of them I antiqued with both "Fiebings Antique finish" and "Fiebings antique stains". I know these products look both great once there on the project, but do require 2 coats of resoleene that they will really stay on and be water repellent. Resoleene is mostly way to shiny for my taste and often washes away the antique stains while applyed (which is why I'm thinking of doing that by spraying it onto it, is that any good?) So, here is the actuall question: Is there a way to get antique stains and finish water resistant AND matt, no matter if the project is carved or not? Products I tried that didn't passed the water test: Fiebings antique finish without anything (looked quit matt, but wasn't water resistant at all) Fiebings antique finish with bees wax dressing (looked not bad, but didn't last) Fiebings antique finish with leather oil (left a waxy surface) Fiebings antique stain without anything (looked very nice, even and matt, but didn't stayed on) Fiebings antique stain with leather oil (brilliant looking surface, a little waxy, collour doesn't stays on properly) Fiebings antique stain with bees wax dressing (allmost the same result as with antique finish and bees wax dressing) Products I tried that passed the water test: Fiebings antique finish with resoleene (after 2 coats the project antique collour stays on and the product is water repellent, but extremly shiny) Fiebings antique stain with resoleene (see above) I'd love to read how you do your antique jobs and if somebody nows a good method/product that might work for me or even got a good reciep for making your own antique stains that will stay matt and are water resistant