bitone40

Very nice, I love that look, love the two tone color and I love the tricky look of no back stitching , it looks like one continuous thread, maybe it is, how do you get that look, unless its all on the back, anyways looks awesome

X I stand corrected, I did not use brillo pads, they were the fine 0000 gauge , and one course 00 steel wool pads, I made sure not to use the one with soap, which my wife uses around the house , sorry for the confusion Ben

Man, thank you very much twinoaks, this is what I have been looking for this whole time, and I think you found my problem, I didn't let it age long enough and didn't use enough metal, I used three full brillo pads to one gallon and as soon as it dissolved, I dipped them, it was about two weeks total wait time, I will add some more pads when I get home, I think that may take the smell away and after some aging. Twinoaks do you think you can write alittle more on the process after the roon'ing like the baking soda bath etc. and make it a sticky, I tried so hard to find out and research what you said and I think it could benefit others. Thanks again for your expertise on the subject Ben

hey particle, did you mold right after you dipped in roon or did you roon' it and the BS bath it and freshwater bath then let dry and then after its all dry did you rewet with fresh water and then mold it ? in all my research i read that everyone was moulding right after the roon'ing process , thats what I did but I did let it dry for about 15-20 min just like I do on a regular holster getting ready to mould , I had no promlems moulding at all , it was just like it had water in it , and for the smell I also read the BS bath is supposed to kill the smell , if I remember right the smell is the roon' still activating on the leather and it is supposed to go away in a couple of days , uh the smell is there on my holsters after two weeks so I dont know whats going on . I still have to mess around with it and figure this stuff out . hope any of this helps or makes sense ben

good call on that , that may be what happened because the one that didnt have spots on it was just a quick dip into to bath and i thought it needed more time soaking , i guess i was wrong and the 20 min to sit was meaning to sit out and dry to be moulded it was just rinsed under the faucet to get all the stuff off , sorry i should have clarified thanks for your help ben

Cool, so thats basically what you are doing in ur video, I was doing the same thing until I tried using beeswax after the dying and and before the final finish until I used it on my businesses card holder and my new carry rig and saw it cracking and peeling off, I should have known,so I wouldn't recommended using it if until you test it out, I do have some half and half of pariffin and beeswax that I have to try also, so I may go back o the gum if I can't get the new way going. Thanks again Ben

Thanks , yea after the second coat of neets oil, they went away on there own, I ran a bunch of test strips of leather in the roon and never applied a clear wash water to any of them and never had any problems , well the one that I did a fresh water bath after the baking soda is the one that has the white spots, the work flow I did on the good one was assemble and and stitch, dip in roon for one minute two times and came out solid black, went straight into baking soda dip for about two to three minutes and pull out and what ever didn't get soaked in in two minutes I just wiped it with a paper towel and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes then mould, I let it air dry for about 15 hrs and oiled, it took that oil in so fast but that's all I put and then about 10hrs later put the second coat and let it sit and dry, on this holster I put a light coat of tan kote and it is looking good so far , but going to put a second coat on it later today and see if its any good to use in the future, the out come so far is good but ill see what it does. Hey Eric I got some questions for you if you don't mind, I saw your new pics and the edgeing is looking awesome now, what are you doing now to them, I have been buying all the supplies to try the same technique as hidepounder and got the rest of them all last night , thanks again Ben

Thanks LW, no more white spots after second coat of oil, I guess we will never know what it was, or at least I wont

Hello and good morning folks, I have some questions on a batch of 'roon that I made up a couple of weeks ago and let me tell you the process I used I made two holsters and diped them on different days, the first one got diped and then BS bath followed and allowed to dry for 10-15 min and then proceeded with the molding and it came out great, then let air dry for about 15 hrs, well while reading here while I was at work and holster was drying, I read that I forgot to give it a fresh water bath after the BS bath and it could cause burning so when I got home it was completely dry and applied two light coats of oil and it is sitting as is, it looks great and have no complaints about it, now the other one is a different story, I rooned it ,BS bath for about 5 min and fresh water bath this time and let sit for 20 min and then molded and let dry and then oiled, now here is my problem, between the two coats of oil, white spots started to form on both sides and on the insides, I put another layer of oil and they dissappered so now I'm waiting to see results , what are the white spots and why are they only on the holster that I added water to? Is it mold or is it oils seeping out or what, is the holster ruined? These are my 1st two dippings of roon besides all the test pieces that came out looking good, the only thing I can think of is that the problem holster was done the day after the first one and I used the same soda solution and it was probably a lot weeker the next day, and the swhite spots do not rub out or buff out Thanks for all he help and sorry so long to read BenBen

That's funny you say that because I did a xd40 and a g22 today and thought the same exact thing, I usually do not to a lot of boning on my larger IWB's except at the trigger guard, but I did on these but did not overdo it, just did the trigger guard nicely and the the slide lines, it came out nice and simple and I just hope the v'roon comes out ok , I did it because it could possibly land me a nice setup with a PD who my cousin is a sheriff for and him and all the guys are looking for off duty holsters and waiting on these two examples Ben

I do a lot of bersa 380 holsters and I use 8 oz all the time, you can look at my pictures in the link in my signature, there are some different styles for the 380 and they are all 8 oz

A possible good find for some supplies, I was wondering if anyone has heard or used them before for anything and how was the experience? I found some interesting stuff on there I would like to try on my holsters , please let me know any feedback please before I make a purchase, thanks Ben Shoeshineexpress.com

this one was a customer request , he wanted me to make one like a Galco universal between the belt holster but wanted me to enclose the barrel and add a side shield to it , color two tone mahogany with white stiching and finished with white resolene and neutral show polish , it is made for a bersa 380. enjoy and thanks for looking . Ben

Those look nice, is that v'roon on the arrow sheath if so that came out nice, I have been wanting to try some sheaths but just don't have the time right now for them, I do have question though do you guys use anything to protect the thread from the blade when removing and inserting, the reason I ask is because a bunch of years ago I bought a leather sheath for a Buck and in just a few instertions and.removals, it was starting to cut the threads and the thing fell apart after that, I'm just curious to see if there is any protection to that, thanks for the help and great looking sheaths

thanks guys , im going to try a bunch of different ways here over the next couple of days , im going to make small objects that are formed and then apply the different methods, some will be moulding in alcohol and air drying , alcohol and oven drying at a very low temp , and even some watered down elmers or wood glue , but I see that maybe getting brittle and cracking ,or maybe applying the glue after the moulding has been done and right out the oven where it can absorb the mixed glue , and also was reading on using very thinned out fiberglass resin , but i see that staying tacky , if the right amount of MEKP is not mixed in , it will never cure and stay pliable, I am rebuilding the floor in my fourwinns boat right now so I have plenty of that stuff , and also if I can find some gylcerne soap bar , melting that and mixing 50/50 with beeswax and dipping leather into mix right out the oven , and lastly buying a sheet of 4oz leather and cuting in half and cementing the rough sides together to equal a 8oz sheet and after cutting my templates out make a holster out of that , being a total of 4 piece of leather , only problem i see with that is wet moulding , the two sides after being sewen together could be pretty unmoldable being that there is glue in the interior of each sides , but I may try but that could get expensive and now lastly watering down some tandys waterbased leather cement and using that like the elmers glue . let me know if I missed out or could modify any of the methods , thanks for reading and if this passage is hard to read , thank my 3 rd grade teacher , lol , just playing ben ps all methods will be after wet molding in alcohol , I honestly think the alcohol molding and oven drying will yield the best results out of all tries but I have to test them so I will be for certain

A customer of mine gave me a old holster for a gun did not have anymore and it is a old Galco for a 92f , and that thing is OLD OLD , but what amazes me is how stiff the mouth still is , what is being used to make it so stiff with out a reinforcement? after i put a couple of layers of super or satin sheen , that stiffens it up a bit but nothing like this , what gives ? maybe dipping it in a acrylic based sealer ? ben

I have tried to use super sheen and satin sheen with so-so results, I think I am ready to run with the big dogs now , I am looking for a new way and product to seal my holsters and make them come out looking like glass , not wavy glass like I have been getting on all black holsters , all other colors are come out good except for black , when I look at some holsters on here, man they look smooth and I just can not get them like that . I want try maybe dipping them into a sealer or trying a new product or some homemade stuff . I know its out there I just have to find it , help a brother out ps . I do airbrush my holsters , would airbrushing supersheen be a start ben

Thanks for sharing this, would you mind if I gave this IWB idea a try? Lance sure not a problem at all , and thanks for the kind words guys

here is a couple of bersa thunder 380 holsters I made , I call one of them a Double Avenger , you can see what I mean I was pretty tuff to make and took alot of time , but I think it came out ok , hope you guys and gals enjoy bd

the ones for the revolver are a modified black metal clip from tandy and the other one for the baby eagle is the same exact clip unmodifed from tandy also they cost a buck and a half each

here are some that I have made and are completey tuckable I have one more for a bersa that I made for myself and ill get a pic of that up here , I can tuck a with a tee shirt on all three and can even tell , can only see clips ( if your looking ) bd

hello, I am just wondering how to get into the adult section and what I have to do . Thanks BD Name: benjamin deleon UserName: bitone40 IP Address: 97.228.2.47 Email Address: myprelude1@aol.com

works great , thanks alot

dye the inside of your holsters, I have not been doing it and I have seen some that are . I use Eco and Febings and have no problems at all with them running or anything ,I just dont do the inside for the gun protection , if ya'll do it can you let me know what steps are taking to ensure no bleeding on a freshly cleaned oiled gun , and my holsters are umlined if that helps any , thanks for the help . bd

this would never happen to a XD , Quick story, I have a friend who bought is wife a 10mm glock g33 I think and she was using a small of the back holster and the 1st time she carried it LOADED she shot her butt cheeck , she had practiced and 100 times with it unloaded and it worked fine , he tried to sell me the gun but it already had the voodoo's on it so i didnt want it