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Everything posted by Normow
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From the album: stillwater stuff
Made with a liner from Springfield Leather. Finally found Stohlman's Pictorial Carving Finesse, which explained how to do foliage.© © leatherworker.net
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I would wet mold it right on the bench top. Tack it down in the sewing channel. You can use tacks recommended by Stohlman, sprayed with polyurethane to keep them from darkening the wet leather. My 2 cents.
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From the album: stillwater stuff
© © leatherworker.net
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Nope, got a lotta soutwestern cholla, mesquite, cactus in that one, but no archetypal trees that I saw. edit: OK, I see the book you're talking about. I have the figure carving book, that I was referring to. I'll get the How to Carve Leather one, see what's in there. Thanks.
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I have a customer who wants a wallet with a carved tree on it. I don't have much experience with figure carving. When I do a search on "tree" I get a lot on saddle trees. Does anyone have a carving pattern and /or tool and technique ideas for carving and stamping a tree? I plan to put it in an oval window in a basketweave frame.
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Thank you, Luke. I'd rather not leave round holes, but want to make awl slits.
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An interesting improvement to a stitching horse is to replace the metal piece for the strap to slide over with a thread spool or large dowel bored out for an axle. Enlarge the slot to make a hole to fit the spool, bore out and drive an axle thru for the spool to roll on and run the strap over the spool. I also added an old furniture coil spring so the jaws will pop open easier.
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I want to use my "Boss" slot machine stitcher for punching holes for hand stitching. I'd like to make a diamond awl needle for it. Wonder if anyone has tried this or has experience making an awl blade for a stitcher.
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I'm in the garage, too. Built a rack up in the attic. 5 large slatted shelves big enough for a side to lay flat. Covered on all sides with heavy visqueen to keep dust off. I'm concerned that I need to get a couple of vents inthe roof peaks, but so far it seems to work ok. Leather I'm cutting from I keep rolled up in a smaller shelf in the shop area.
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I don't know what it's called, but I've used one for years. It's a section of large pipe (2.5"?) over a threaded pipe that just fits inside. It clamps to the bench. The outer pipe is cut into sections. One at 90 deg, the other at 45 deg. You slip a blade in the cut and tighten the plug on the threaded end. A guide slides back and forth to keep your thong the same width throughout. Someone else probably knows what it's called. Cut your leather into the desired dimension times x. Skive it. Then go to the thong cutter and cut your pieces. Unless you want ot go $2000 for a skiver, this is the best way I know.
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Luke, thank you. This appears to be a good supplier of some unusual chap leathers. Norm
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No, it's kind of an unusual request. Chap leather is usually sold by the side, 20-25 sq ft. I need bigger pieces. The waxy finish is a special request of the customer. There's lots of upholstery leather, but usually with a glossy finish. I have talked to Siegel of California, where I get most of my leather. Weaver- no go. Oregon Leather, apparently no. I'm hoping a shotgun approach might be noticed by a supplier who can help. Thanks for replying.
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OK, a little lighter weight, (5-6 0z) but still dark, not glossy burgundy, 48-50 sq ft. Need two. Anybody got any ideas? OR, big sides, maybe 30+ sq ft?
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I'm looking for some fairly heavy (7-8 oz) chap leather, waxy, dark, dark burgundy. Need double butts, two. Norm stillwatertackshop.com
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I made this saddle as a project in Bob Lane's (Okanagan Saddlery) English saddle making class. I'll start number 2 as soon as I have all the stuff gathered up.
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From the album: English
© © leatherworker.net
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From the album: English
© © leatherworker.net
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Help with black
Normow replied to Knifeknut's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Use Fiebing's Black or USMC Black. Dye it blue first, then black, then buff and oil, and tan kote.