Lil Doodler

Hi! Most of the skiving machines you'll buy today doesn't have a decent manual, to explain how to use it or maintain it properly. I recently added a post here on Leatherworker.net, giving the url of a great manual, and also showing a trouble shooting chart for skiving machines. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51399&hl=%2Bskiving+%2Bmachine It's at the bottom of that page now. Should be of help to you. That looks like veg tan leather you were skiving, which dulls the knife very fast. Also, with veg tan leather, it is better to take several passes if you want to skive a lot off. Start with a a light cut, and each pass, skive off a little more. Most of the skiving I do, and that I have seen, is done on only the edge of the leather. I skive the edge half the thickness of the material, so that it is easy to fold over. I think that is the main purpose of the skiving machine, just to skive the edge. In almost all cases, I have only seen 1/2" or less of the edge of the material skived on a machine. The edge guide helps keep the cut even and parallel to the edge. Good Luck!

Hi, You might find this manual to be of a lot of help operating, and maintaining your skiver http://www.ou.edu/ao...r Model 10A.pdf On pages 5 & 6, it tells how to sharpen: simutaneously apply the honing stone/rod and the grinding wheel at the same time and be sure to release them both at the same time Also, here is a skiving machine trouble shooting chart should be helpful to all!

Howdy! Have you checked out the "AirSoft" guns? Might be a low cost alternative for a model for making holsters. Most are made to exact specs of the real guns, but much less expensive, even less expensive than the blue guns. And, most of the Airsoft guns are fun! shoots a 6mm round plastic ball. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airsoft_gun Sig p226 airsoft gun review on youtube. I used a Colt 1911 airsoft for a holster with good results. Hope this might help, Good luck to you

Howdy, Most of my projects are smaller, so I print out the picture, drawing, design etc on regular copy paper and put that inexpensive clear packing tape on the backside, so the tape is against the damp leather. If the printed subject is bigger than one strip of tape, I lay down a second, and or third strip. I tried a stylus, pencils, pens, but found using an exacto knife with an intentionally dulled point works best for me. It does crease the paper and tape a bit, but the good thing about using a computer print out, is that it is easy to make another copy. Good luck to you!

Howdy, I've read a lot of your posts about splitting, and skiving. Want to say thanks for all the information you've made available! Recently I've come across another method for skiving used by book binders. They call it Paring. Some of the tools the book binders use are the same as leather workers, but there are a couple different. Have you heard of modifying a wood workers spoke shave for leather? Does anybody here do this? I thought ya'll might find these interesting. HIstory http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/ Modifying a spoke shave for leather http://www.talasonline.com/photos/bookbinding/spokeshavearticle.pdf Some bookbinder knives / tools http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/knife-catalog/

Thanks rk! I found you can use a heat gun like they sell at Harbor Freight and / or a toaster oven. I used both. Used the toaster oven to heat it initially, then fine tuned the shaping with the heat gun. There are different thicknesses, I used the .80" and it seemed perfect. I'm using a small piece of the Kydex for an inside the waistband clip that will go under the outside belt for extra retention. Maybe you've seen some of those from some tactical manufacturers. The Kydex really is hard to break, and once formed keeps it's shape very well. Cheers Lil Doodler

Thanks for the input everyone!! Lil Doodler

Howdy! I thought you might want to see my "Inside Out" holster. This was a project for my Glock 36. Usually this is a concealed carry firearm, but I wanted to make something for carrying it on the belt. I'm still a rank beginner! After cutting the leather for my Glock pistol, I realized that I had cut it with the template upside down. Rather than cut the leather up for something else, I decided to see what it would look like like it was, with the smooth leather inside. For fun, I thought I'd add a muzzle plug. Turned out pretty well. The outside, fleshy side has a kind of rough finish to it. Those who have seen it in person have said they liked it, very unusual. What's your opinion? Cheers! Lil Doodler

Howdy Ya'll Thought I'd share some pictures of a Frankenstein Holster. I call it Frankenstein, because it is a mix between Veg-Tan and Kydex Kydex is pretty cool, heat it up, form it, and it maintains its shape when it cools So I warmed it up, shaped it, cut it out, drilled some holes for rivets, painted it with acrylic paint and gave it a glossy finish. Then just riveted it to a 8 oz back that had a loop sewed already. Whatcha think? Good luck, Lil Doodler

Hi Dave, Wow, That manual has a lot of great information! I especially like the trouble shooting chart at the end. Thanks a lot Dave. It's strange though, that the feed roll lubrication isn't mentioned in that manual. There must be some friction on the feed roll On my machine, there are oiling "ports" On a couple of the parts lists, it looks like there is a "wick" or bit of cotton inside the feed roller shaft (pin), presumably to hold oil. I've attached some pictures of my Feed Roll Shaft : But I'm curious, does anyone lube their feed roll shaft? Have any problems with it? Am I needlessly worrying about something I shouldn't? Thanks in advance for your help Lil Doodler

Howdy! May I ask, how do you lubricate your leather skiving machine? I recently bought a bottom feed skiving machine. There was very little in the way of information about where to lubricate, how often, and what kind of oil, etc should be used. I found an old manual for another brand, discontinued, but very much the same mechanicals. This old manual suggested taking out the main bracket, taking off the feed stone, filling the hollow feed stone pin (shaft) with oil once a week, as well as adjusting the end play of the feed stone when reassembling. Also, there was a reference to the type of lubrication for the worm gear driving the feed stone, it should be a type of gear case lubricant (oil?), and that using grease can lead to breakdown. I checked the gear box on my machine and it was filled with grease. Given, the grease today might have different formulas than 15 years ago, or how ever long ago this manufacturer wrote this manual, I can't help but wonder what other people's experiences might be. For my particular machine, a couple of the oil holes for lubricating shafts are not there, but in the cover, and carrier assembly that holds the feed stone, there is an oil hole for dropping oil into the hollow feed stone shaft without having disassemble anything. A lot of the other adjustments and procedures in the manual look very helpful, from how to properly adjust and sharpen the knife, to suggestions on adjusting the depth, angle, and type of presser foot. The title of the manual is "list of spareparts", but there is a lot of information about setting and running too aoi.ou.edu/images/Leather%20Skiver%20Model%2010A.pdf So, which oil do you use on the feed stone? How often? In the gear box? Is it grease? Have you ever had a problem with breakdown? Thanks for your help, Lil Doodler

Looks Great Andrew! Good work! umm . . . May I ask, what is the name of the tool/device, and the manufacturer?

Howdy! I've been having good luck getting a straight, machine like fold by scoring the thin leather on the backside. I use one of the clear drafting ruler with steel edges and 1/8" grid to measure and use for straight edge. C-thru B85m http://www.amazon.com/C-Thru-Graph-Beveled-Transparent-Rulers/dp/B0027ACJEQ To score, I use an exacto blade intentionally dulled with a file. It's a lot cheaper than $1,000! One more very small thing to consider before folding/laying out the leather might be which way the grain is going. I think the leather does have a grain, and folds easier with the grain than against it Bend the leather a bit to see which way it folds easier before you start, although with thin leathers it doesn't matter as much. Good luck!

Howdy! Don't know if it's too late, but here is a little info . . . I found an operator's manual for the 67 & 167 Adler. It doesn't have timing instructions, but I wonder if the slip clutch mentioned might be part of the difficulties you were describing. this operation manual is in several different languages, so scroll down for the English part. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/167/167.pdf Also, if there are other models close to your Adlers, they might have service manuals at the main manual page: http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/167/167.pdf Good luck to you! Doodler