TomG

I would never undercoat with anything but pure NFO. Resolene is an acrylic sealer, closely related to floor wax. You might want to try dip dying for even coats.

I use the one from Weaver. Pricey, but worth it. Be sure to order a few spare rubber 'faces' for the jaws. They will wear out over time. I used to make specialty leashes that had about 8 Chicago screws holding things together. I used a small drill with a Phillips bit to set them. I also used the blue Harbor Freight version of Loc-Tite. Worked great.

Yes. . See previous comments on the subject. But. Don't dilute it too much. As with all dye, you can always add, but can not subtract color in most cases. The only issue with the paste is if you use too much, it can flack out after it dries.

There should be a hole in the table behind the machine. The peg fits in there. You tilt the machine up and back and it rests on that post.

I don't use Tan-Kote, but I've used LB/AW for 15 years. I primarily make dog collars and leashes. I apply it liberally, front and back. I give it a couple of minutes to set and then pull the item over a round, wood rod, front and back, while keeping tension. This breaks the fibers from getting stiff with the dip dye process. Then, a good buffing and I'm done. I have used Resolene and still do periodically. I found that if you don't dilute it 50/50 with water, it can crack. Even diluted, I've seen it do that.

Well, I can tell you that it is NOT a bleed knot. I used to know the name of it, but old age has erased that knowledge. I've made a couple of items using it years ago, and I use a short version to secure the ends of my dog leashes. Try this. Take 2 straps of leather, around 5/6 or so as it's easier to play with, about 3/4" wide Maybe 1". remember that you're experimenting and can adjust things after you figure out the technique.. Cut 2, 1" slits in each one, about 1/2" apart. Lay 1 on top of the other, with the slits on top of each other. I THINK I put the rough sides together, but not 100% sure. From the back side, pull both straps through the first slit, pull tight. Take the same ends and pull them through slit 2 from the back. Repeat for the length of the strap. I slapped together a quick demo photo. Sloppy, but you can get the idea. This is 1oz leather. Couple of points. Thicker leather tends to look better and hold together better. Make the slits twice the width of the leather strap. I use 1-1/2 for 3/4" wide 10/12 straps. Also, the leather thickness can affect the slit length. You will need to experiment with the spacing between the slits Good luck

You can buy pre-dyed VegTan, And yes, you can wet it and stamp it. Just make sure that they have not pre-sealed it with anything. I dip dye almost all of my VT leathers. In general, I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dilute 50/50 with 90% alcohol. That works well, in general. Blues, Greens, Reds, etc, I usually have to so test dips whenever I buy a new bottle. I have had to dilute up to 80% for some colors like a Pink. The problem with that is that it gets too transparent and the leather shade comes through. I found a fix for that color by using Angelus Rise, cut 50/50. I don't use NFO, like Dwight mentioned, solely because I have never been able to apply it evenly enough to NOT make it blotchy <g>. You do NOT want me to ice your birthday cake, LOL. But, maybe if I had the time and patience to try it more and a few times, I'd develop a 'touch. But, yeah.. Try Dwight's method. I know a lot of the masters use it for their work with great success. Oh, Use PURE NFO, not the neatsfoot compound.

Sew them into a square pouch and use it as a light weight sandbag. Hold down tracings, prop up edges, etc.

I dip dye 95% of my VT leather and can tell you what works for me. I use Fiebings Pro dye and most of it I dilute 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol (90%). I use Rubbermaid plastic tubs that are about 10" x 4" or so (don't remember the exact size). I drag the straps through slowly, so that every inch is submerged for about 5 seconds. In general, I get good, even color, with adequate penetration of the dye. Now, I have actually seen these kinds of marks the few times that I tried rolling the straps up and soaking them in the dye for a minute or 2 and then unrolling them as I pull them from the tank. The dye can't get to the inner rolled portions. But even those were not dyed really deeply, even on the outer portions of the roll. You could try to zig-zag them n the tank and move them around a bit. Next, Oxacilic acid is not used to dilute anything. You wipe in on the strap to bleach it and let it dry, then dye. Finally, You might have a very fatty side of leather. I personally have never been able to dye through and through. I think tanners do something different to get it all the way through. Try the long plastic tank and just drag it through slowly. Usually the slower the pull the darker the color. Let us know how that works.

Well, I found the book, However, it's from 1893 or so, and uses chemicals common from that era to make the stuff in it. Not readily available these days. I also did a quick search and all found was to boil acorns to make a brown dye. I still think your best bet is maybe an art store and how about a paint store. They have dyes for wood that may be perfect for you. Good luck

I think your profile said Israel. Do you not have art supply stores? How about beauty supplies? Maybe liquid hair dye could be used. I did a search for Dyestuffs, which leather dyes are made from, but didn't find any unless you wanted to buy it by the ton. Somewhere, I have a digital copy of an old leather craft book. I'll see if I can find it. I seem to recall it had a section on making dyes from natural ingredients.

If you I have a fabric or sewing store, or a Walmart, etc., look for Ritz dye packs. You mix with water. Many grocery stores used to carry them as well. I've heard that they work well in many cases.

I mainly make straps of various sorts. I almost never use NFO as I never mastered putting it on thin enough to not get blotchy. I case, stamp and dry. Then Dye. I use Fiebings Pro dyes and dip dye 99% of my stuff. Once dry, I buff either by hand or, in the case of black or dark brown, with a buffing wheel in a bench mounted buffer. I then apply Leather Balm with Atom Wax to the back, liberally, and then to the front. I avoid waxing any lettering or places that I'll paint. I use a Q-Tip or small rag to apply it to the outline of the letters or design. After the front, I put the strap over a round bar in a "U" shape, and pull tight and pull it back and forth a few times, front and back. This breaks up the fibers a bit and in most cases, make the strap limp and limber. If there looks to be any gloss, I may hit the letter surfaces with a piece of sandpaper or scratch it lightly with an Exacto blade. I then apply the acrylic paint using little disposable 5ml, needle tip bottles (Amazon). I try to use Angelus paints now. I used to use the $2/bottle ones from Hobby Lobby/Michaels. I found that I usually had to mix a little Liquitex PouringMedium in (not too much) to make is flow properly. I do the smae on the Angelus. if needed. But, they produce virtually no brush marks. Another product I've used is Ready-To-Pour acrylic paint. Those need no additives. Have fun!

I have a large 'side' of shearling that I've had stored and now has a bit of a musty smell. Can wash this and if how, what is the best way.

I have a long-time customer whom I am no longer going to be able to service. Worsening arthritis in my hands is making it harder to make them, without too many 'oops' errors during sewing. (All I have in a cylinder arm machine.) She orders what are called Tag Leads for dogs. She places 1-3 orders per year, in quantities of 35 to 50, as a rule. If you are interested in taking it on, shoot me an email and I'll send you more details and her contact info. Tom