jetech

Ryan The tree looks to be in good shape. I don't mind putting a few hundred dollars into it replacing leather but I have no idea what that would actually cost. I think the previous owner had it stored in a damp place. whithead I did take it apart some and cleaned it the best I could with alcohol and Lysol. I don't know what else I should try. Some of the leather is dry and cracked especially one of the fenders.

Don I just got back from training and was able to read your reply. Thanks for the info I will have to try that dye.

Thanks Don. They are great inspiration. How did you finish the scabbard? I finished a holster with the Tandy one step stuff and don't like how it looks. I am looking for a golden to rust colored finish for a shoulder holster that I am working on.

I have an older saddle that I picked up from a shop, when it gets humid out the saddle has a mold like smell. I have tried several things to clean it up but nothing works long term. I am a beginner at leather work but was wondering if it would be reasonable to remove all the leather pieces from the tree and use them as patterns to cut new leather and re-assemble the saddle. This is a plain saddle with no carving, probably not worth the time but it fits my horse well and I hate to throw away a saddle. Is this a project for someone relatively new to leather work or do you think I am getting involved in a project that will be harder than I think? Everything would be hand stitched. The parts that have me a little worried are the horn and seat. The seat is suede and I am not sure how to replace that yet. Thanks for any advice or comments

BOOMSTICKHolsters Thanks, I will look for those products. paris32000 Pictures may take a while, I have to work through the weekend and won't have time to finish the holster this week.

Jason I followed your steps for the .22 cal and things came out pretty close. Once the wet molded top (or front) dried I was able to reduce the bottom some. I molded a reinforcement for the mouth of the holster that also strengthens the belt holes. When I get time I will glue the reinforcement to the top then start stitching. Anyone have a recommended dye or other finish? I am thinking about a light brown finish, Maybe an olive oil or something that gives that color. I have heard good and bad about olive oil, I have never used it. Thanks again

I want to try two pancake holsters but I have a question. One will be a concealment holster for a .45 single action revolver and the other is for a .22 semi-auto. How much extra leather if any do I allow for the top piece to form around the gun? I assume I cut the front and back out, stitch the two together, cut out the belt holes, and then wet form the top around the gun. Is this correct? Sorry for my ignorance on this but I hate to waste leather. These will be my first holsters and I need a good starting point and welcome any help. Thanks

Welcome I am just 8 miles south of Des Moines.

I have a new oiled leather saddle bag that is medium brown, is it possible to make it a darker brown?

Thanks Don I like your 1873 also. I will probably make on similar in shape only without the carving, perfect stitching, and no mistakes :biggrin: Thanks again for the pictures.

Don Do you have any 1800's scabbard patterns or pictures? I have a 1892 20" EMF saddle ring that I want to hang on my horse. I found a picture of one that I like but I would like to see other options. Thanks

Thanks Jim Don Thanks for the help. Nice looking work, a real encouragement for me to get better at the craft.

Don Thanks, that looks like something I might be able to do. Does the leather piece end at the top of the sheath rather than wrap over the top? Do you have on-line pictures of your holsters.

Your products look great. I especially like the spur straps.

Looks good Jim.

Don I didn't know what year they started using the boot. I want to make something similar mainly for trail riding. I can probably use something else to hold the boot open. I have seen the slings and rings, I was thinking about making a sling but they can be purchased at a reasonable price. If I do make one it will be because I want it brown.

Thanks Bruce.

Hi Ken I don't actually have a plate yet, I was planning on using a fairly thick piece of brass sheet. I don't need to make an exact copy just something close. My 1892 replica is a little thinner than the original carbines so I will have to change the size to fit the gun.

Ashley Where did you go?

Any ideas?.... Anyone. I was initially thinking soldered studs on the back of the plate but now maybe some type of rivet with a partial liner covering the rivet where it could contact the gun. I wonder how a stitch groove with holes cut in the metal and the plate sewn on would work.

I would like to make a civil war era carbine boot like this one. How can I attach the brass plate so its fasteners won't scratch the gun. I wasn't planning on a liner.

Hi Ashley I was thinking about using leather with a seam laced up the middle. I appreciate the help. Gary

I just finished my first project. They aren't perfect but I learned several things about leather working.

Is there any on-line info on wrapping stirrup's or can anyone give a good explanation on how to do this. Thanks

Thanks Art