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Thank you Corvus. Well, I used about a 1/4 inch veg tan insole and as I understand it, it will mold to the foot over time. A leather insole and the 12 iron (1/4 inch) rubber out sole I used makes them very comfortable to walk in. As far as extra arch support I suppose you could "cheat" and buy an arch support insert, but one method in handmade shoes is called "insole up in waist". It involves molding the insole up into the waist of the last so that when the shoe is complete that leather nestles up in the waist of the foot to help provide support. I'm still new to this so hopefully I made some sense, and haven't led you astray with misinformation. If you're wanting to make shoes, I can send you a PM with all the places I've found information over the last couple of years. Casey...

Thanks for all the positive feedback! alb, they're very light and quite comfy. Only thing is that i didn't put any topline tape in, so I can tell the topline will stretch pretty quickly making them a bit loose. Which is OK since they'll probably be put on the shelf for safe keeping as my first pair anyway. Casey...

Here is my first pair of handmade footwear. The uppers are cheap chrome from the scrap bin at Springfield Leather. They have a full, handsewn welt and a cemented rubber outsole. Definitely have the shoe bug now! Casey...

That would be great Bob, thank you. Casey...

Long story short, I bought a Singer 153w103 online that unbeknownst to me, had been modified to run as a fixed foot machine. At some point, somebody removed some of the parts that made the machine a walking foot. Now I can't seem to get ahold of the sellers to resolve the issue (and yes, I learned a VERY valuable lesson) and now it looks like I'll be stuck with the machine. Does anybody have a good source for parts to this machine? I know which parts I need and have found some of them online, others, no such luck. I appreciate any and all info. Thanks! Casey...

Wow, very cool! I love the idea of a latch/closure that's not "off-the-shelf ". Thanks for sharing. Casey

I would think in order to use a pair of dividers to mark a spiral would be very challenging. You would have to be able to slowly bring the dividers together while at the same time turning in a circular motion, pivoting on one point. Alternatively, I think you can pick up a strap and lace cutter for a reasonable price. Casey

Thanks for your input as well Art! Casey

Thank you Sewmun! That is just the reply I was hoping for. And I still have a few hours left on the auction:yes: Thanks again, Casey

I've found a Singer 236G120 on a popular auction site and was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with this old post machine. The seller says it works and is from an old shoe factory. Any thoughts on what would be a good price (head being sold only) for it ? I am sure parts could be "tricky" to come by and am taking that into consideration as well. Thanks all! Casey

Just pull an arm span worth of thread and sew with that. It's easier to handle and you can always pull your stitches tight without letting go of your needles. Casey...

There's nothing wrong with simple, especially for the first few projects. They look pretty good. Might want to do some kind of edge finish, it'll make them look more professional. Keep it up! Casey...

Great idea, thanks. I think this is the way i'll go. Casey...

I'm making a brief case where the inside divider (which is chrome tanned) will be sandwhiched between the gusset, and front pannel (both are veg tan). I've read of the difficulty in burnishing chrome tan leather and was wondering what my options are for finishing this type of edge. Thanks. Casey...

You'll most likely get a better response if you move this to the appropriate area. Good luck!

That gas tank is ridiculous man! Very nice.