greg gomersall

Most all of the old stamping tools are iron that was never plated and they don't discolor the leather. They are just making contact with the leather long enough to make an impression , not sleeping next to it. USe the cleaner methods mentioned earlier in this thread then use the tools. Get rid of the ones that you don't like the impression results of and enjoy the rest. Greg

The 6" osborne splitter is sold as well. Randall Krebs pattern still available. Thanks Greg

Bruce Keith is at Worthing S.D. PM me your email and I will send photos of my crimper. If you know a good machinist we might even be able to let you borrow mine to copy as long as he would do it in a week or so as I do use it quite a bit. Greg

Here are a couple photos of the 6" splitter. Greg

Bruce you had me thinking half the night. A person might be able to make a crimper using two rounders as the basis for the unit. Those cheap rounders Weavers sell might work for this as they arn't much good for anything else. If you are interested I will take some photos of my crimper for you. Greg

Bruce I don't know where you could find a crimper for sure. Either Bob Douglas or Keith Pommer may have one. I bought mine a few years back from an Amish family that was living up near Spokane Wash. but they moved back east. They sure don't come up for sale very often and it's tough to do a nice job with out one. I rebuilt an old Bohlin headstall for a client a couple years ago and all the ferrales were drilled and pinned on it. Greg

Here are two headstalls i just finished. They are sterling and gold mounted with the silver coming from Schaezlein silversmiths. The rounds are all hand sewn, and styled in classic california tradition. Not a lot of fun to make, but they sure do look pretty on a horse. Greg

Dear Rod and Denise on a tree laced with rawhide it should not be an issue because even if a lace is compromised, it is still rigid and basicly folded so it should not continue to pop or slide like a tree laced with nylon would. As for trying to avoid the seams when drilling for the front strings I don't think it could be done on a consistant basis unless most of the tree makers started lacing the trees differently to avoid having a seam in this area. I don't think this is practical either so we live with as is. Greg

The 8" twist handle #84 is sold. Thanks Greg

I do mine like "C". Front of the skirts at the butt of the hide with the pad area along the denser wool of the spine. Reason being wool grows pointing back on a sheep and this placement helps hold blankets better. Run your hand on a sheepskin back and forth from front to back and decide for yourself. This placement is probably the one that requires the largest hide of the ones shown though. Greg

Major; wish I could of kept it for a while but UPS came today and its on its way to the lady that ordered it. Greg

Weaver leather carries a medocre one or call Bob Douglas or Keith Pommer for a top notch old one. Greg

Steve you have showed me this photo before and I have always wondered why if your great-grandfather could build enough to keep an inventory stocked full do you not do the same, shouldn't take more than a day or two. Greg

Darcy I've already got a 3 heart King border stamp just like the one I got you so if you want my 4 heart your gonna have to come to my estate auction (don't book any flights yet). Bruce in between the geometric stamps is a flower center I got from Don King 5 or 6 years ago. It was a prototype for an idea he had and as far as I know it is the only one he made. Don made the geometric I used on this saddle as well. The breast collar dee and rope strap buckle tab are the same piece of leather. The rope strap buckle just has a hook on the back like a belt buckle. The weight of your rope keeps it tight and you just have to pull down on the tail of the strap to undo it. Works real slick. Greg

Latest saddle I just finished. It is a 15 " Taylor with a wood post horn. Glenn Christman made the tree and Dave Alderson made the Sterling concho's, rope strap buckle, and sterling and gold frog. The inlaid seat and bucking rolls are alligator. Greg P.S. Denise thanks for the posting instructions and thank you to my wife Cyndi for figuring out how to follow them.

Mike you are correct the keystone is the model 84. If you click on my name it will take you to my profile where you can click on and send me a PM. I can then email you pictures. Sounds like our computer skills are on the same level Greg

Bruce; Recieved an interesting Email today from Earl Bascom's son. He had googled his dad's name and came accross the post on this thread where I had mentioned his dad as being the first to cut his horn off. He says it was 1922 that his dad did this. As a side note Earl was one of the true inventive genuises in the rodeo business as he is also the man who came up with the side delivery bucking chute and the first leather bareback rigging as well, as to that point the bareback horses were rode with a rope instead. No wonder the man is in the Hall Of Fame. Greg

Pete if you give me your email I can email photos to you but I ain't figured out how to post a photo to the web. It looks like any other #86 osborne splitter if that helps any. Greg

The Krebs pattern splitter blade has a cutting edge just over 9" wide so it would be refered to as a 9" splitter. They are a pull type with a calibrated dial and adjusting handle on the front bottom edge of the frame. They are considered my most craftsman as the top of the line in bench splitters. Greg

I have just acquired two splitters which are original, clean and nice. I have sharpened both and they are ready to go. 1) 8" Twist handle keystone splitter $375.00 2) 6" thumb screw style with Disston blade $275.00. Both blades are good full blades and frames are very clean and honest. Also have a Randal Krebs pattern with 2 blades $650.00. Greg

combine post 7 drawing with post 9 drawing and you have it your stitching thru the top layer should go thru the stingray as well while the plug keeps the exposed ray up flush with the surface of the top layer

Do like bruce sugested and use the piece you cut out of the center to raise your ray up flush with the surface. If you have a splitter you could take a thickness equal to the ray off of the plug and have a real nice fit. Greg

Bruce I've had no problem sewing it. With the skirting being on top of the ray the needle has lots of support to help prevent deflection by the time it hits the ray. I am using a high densisty quick recovery foam in the inlay 1/4" thick that I get from MacMaster-Carr. I can get you the part # and contact info for you if you need it. Greg Gearsmithy I think you want the edges cut at a 90 on your type of inlay the countersinking I was refering to was for a saddle seat. Greg

Bruce I've done a dozen or more inlaid saddle seats using stingray and have not had one complaint of the stingray wearing anyones jeans out and some of these rigs are being used by guys riding hard all day every day. In fact i just started a rig today for a customer who this will be his second stingray inlay from me. I know thats the first thing people say when they look at the stingray but I have yet to meet anyone who has one that says this and I know Steve Mason has done several as well. If you know anyone with a different experince firsthand I would like to know. The most important thing with an inlay is that besides being inlaid the leather has to countersunk as well or it won't be much fun to ride. Greg

Waddy just you you can turn 18 shades of red we will let you know Ashley is a Guy. Greg