FHL FERG

GOOD CALL! I kept trying to figure out where I was getting off on my alignment. I bet that's it. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks! I used eco flo clear coat applied with an air brush.

I use pans from TEACH from the Jockey Journal Here is his site... http://www.baasmetalcraft.com/

Your headed in the right direction for sure. My two pennies on the twisted lace; To avoid it on mine I do 2-4 partial pulls of the lace making sure there are no twists. So basically (depending on the lacing pattern or style I am using) there will be 2-3 loops of lace sticking up from my project. And I stick the needle into the next location making sure it's straight as well with no twist. Then I back track and pull the rest of the excess lace through each section at a time. This seems to work really well for me and I usually only have to stop a few times during a project to straighten something out. Getting rid of the twists will really clean up the look and consistency of your finished product. I hope my process makes sense.... Good Luck ! FHL FERG

I like the contrast. Seeing someone elses hands covered in dye made me feel better about my lack of finnesse.

Ya, I LOVE Christian's stuff. I have been a JJ head for years and I thought my wirk was decent until I saw his and my jaw hit the floor, the guy is a true artist.

This is my latest seat. It's going to a guy in Australia for his 1966 Triumph project. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. I learned a lot of lessons from this one though. Every phase of the build had obstacles to try and over come. Fortunately leatherworker.net had all the answers and experience to lend a hand! It was the fist time using this geometric that I used on the bottom plate. It offered some real challenges keeping it straight and consistent, there are several flubs that drive me crazy. The dye on the bottom isn't as consistent as I would like either, but it's not terrible. As for the top, I'm pleased with the texturing I did; it really seems to add to the look and feel of the piece. At the time I was happy with the scorpion, in retro spect Iwish I did more to try and bring him to life, he feels really flat to my eye, no life. (Any thoughts on how to do that would be appreciated.) Let me know what you think, I'm very open to constructive criticism. Thanks, Craig

WELCOME, from North Texas. Nice tool box!

Welcome! This site is a wealth of information with a LOT of seasoned veterans. You won't be dissapointed. Craig

PM SENT

Do you still have this?

I just realized I said post machine in my previous post, I meant to say cylinder machine. 1. Two pieces of 8-10oz , so roughly 1/4" to 5/16" on the seats 2. one piece of 9-10oz for the fire gear plus a liner of 1-2 oz so again roughly 1/4" or less 3. Right now I'm hand sewing with the waxed thread off the shelf at tandy, I want to use a thick thread in the machine for a nice bold look. 4. Tooth marks on the bottom side of the suspenders no problem. on the seats big problem but really it just depends how bad 5. The seat pan is 13" at it's longest point but thats on the short side at the nose so it could go through at an angle if I had to 6. I wanted to stay under 500 but could go 800 for the right machine. I kknow im' all over the place on these projects and needs, I really appreciate your input wiz. Ofcourse if Icould run the seat in the machine on the left side of the needle then it doesn't really matter and I would never need more than 6 inches or so for my other stuff on the right side

Ok, here's the deal. I make all sorts of things, like most of us do. I want to be able to do more guitar and rifle straps along with thr occasional holster or sheath. Most of what I do is leather suspenders er firefighting gear. My motorcycle seats to this point have been hand laced. I use a steel pan with foam and I want to be able to mate a top piece and a bottom piece and machine sew over the foam and pan so the whole pan is covered. Is there a style of machine that can effectively do both the seats, sheaths, and straps? A post style machine seems to make more sense for the seats, I couldnt figure out how I could get the seat pan with foam and leather in a flatbed machine. Will the post machine work ok for straps and such?

Thanks Wiz. I apprecaite you two taking the time to help me out. I have a efeling it won't be the last as I venture down the sewing machine road. I hope this one works out, I have been chasing sewing machines for the last two months trying to find the right features and price.

Thanks again for your help. Assuming it does what I need and is in working order is $500 a decent price for the singer unit? Will I need to change the motor or pulley to slow it down or just leave it as is?

What about a Juki DDL 552? Would that be capable, I know it's a walking foot machine but thats all I know on it so far and they are asking $600 on the table, head, and motor. Or a Singer 211G165? Again , it's a walking foot but thats all I know so far and they are asking $500

OK, so I talked to the folks at Bogle-Greenwell that refurbished it some years back. It's a 68 class Tack machine like you guys said. Only good for garment grade leather or draperies and the like. It really wont fit my needs overall, so back to the hunt for a walking foot compound feed that Ican afford, if there is such a mythical beast..........

Thanks for the feedback. It still might suit some other needs I have. What's something like this worth in this condition? I don't want to overpay.... Also, what should I expect to have to pay to have it cleaned up and serviced?

More pics...

I am looking at buying this machine from a guy localy. It was refurbsihed several years ago by a compnay localy called Bogle-Greenwell that apparently specializes in leather working machinery. The machine, supposedly, was refurbished then when the curent owner bought it he used it a handful of times and it has sat dormant since about 1998. Everything appears to be in working order, by that I mean everything turns freely and it powers on and the motor works. I couldn't find anything specific about it through the web link above to their site, can anyone fill me in on this type of machine? What would be a fair price on it? The reciept he has says that he paid $1800 for it in 1996. Will it work for motorcycle seats? Thanks for your input, FERG

Thank Bill, I will look there and see what I find....