FHL FERG

Thanks so much Wiz

I am looking for info on a Prosew Model M 120-2 cylinder arm machine. I need to know what it's capable of, foot type, lift, needle and thread sizes, etc... Several google searches turned up nada...... :/

The three most common shapes can be found here: http://media.msanet.com/NA/USA/FireHelmets/Fronts/CairnsFireHelmetFronts/Standard-Fronts.pdf THE 6" fits most traditional helmets wether it's a cairns or a paul conway or some other. But the shapes and sizes do vary based on the helmet and the preference. Make sure whatever you're making him matches the general shape of others he works with, otherwise he may not be able to use it. You might even try to stop by the station when he is off and make a tracing of one of the shields that you can use to make yours A single 12oz leather works well for the thickness you need or two piese of a 5-6 oz sewn together will work. I prefer the single 12 oz when I make them. Helmet styles: http://www.msafire.com/catalog/catalog511.html Also look here for shields: http://www.buildyourbullard.com/Category.mvc/FireAndRescue And here: http://webapps.msanet.com/fronts/ GOOD LUCK! If you need some guidance feel free to message me direct

IS this machine still available?

<-------- helmet shieds can be tedious, But what leather project isn't. There are a wide range of sizes and shapes and they vary depending on the type of helmet they wear and the region they are from. If you know what style shield they need I can send you some good links.....

Thanks for the replies. I will take a look at both HO and WC and see what they have to offer.

Really? No one?

The HDPE appears to be a rigid plastic as well. I am needing a rubber mat. I saw where someone was using a horse stall mat, I may pick one up at tractor supply and see how it works.

Thanks for the info.

Wasn't sure where to ask this one, so I'll start here..... What kind of plastic or rubber is the cutting mat that they sell at tandy? The black rubber kind. I am wanting to make a table for cutting rather than just having a small piece and I need to know what to surf the web for so I can find a 4x4 to 4x8 sheet of it. Thanks! Ferg

Looking to buy a good used Cobra Class 3 or Class 4 machine I am in Dallas, I can cover shipping costs or I will pick it up if you are within 100 miles or so. I HAVE CASH!!! Thanks, Ferg

Sounds to me like you may be trying to center your punch over your mark. This will almost always end up with your holes being off as you site them down the line. Use your mark as the edge of the hole instead of the center of the hole.

I use neat lac on my firefighting equipment without any problems. It's only flamable in a liquid state, once it's applied and dried it doens't seem to have that characteristic. And my stuff has seen a LOT of heat as well.

I'm looking at a Durkopp Adler 267-373. It comes with the table and the motor. The motor specs are: 1.5 hp 220 volt 3 phase 3600rpm variable speed Mitsubishi. From what I have read this model of Adler head is a medium to heavy duty unit. Is that correct? It will be my first and only machine for now. I will mostly use it to sew guitar strap type projects, maybe a holster, wallet or sheath from time to time. It should work for that I believe..... ? Will I be able to slow this motor down enough or will I need to look at swapping it out? if so what could I expect to spend on making the swap? Best I can tell, this should be the manual info for it: http://www.duerkopp-...%2F267%2F It looks just like this one..... Thanks for any guidance.

Like the title says, What's your preferred tooling leather? Why? Where do you buy it from? To date I have only been buying from Tandy, partly because I didn't know there were other options and partly because it was close and convenient. What tannery's veg tanned tooling leather do you prefer? I have heard some good things about Herman Oak leather and I was thinking of ordering some and seeing how I like it. I keep reading how their leather holds a better image whe ntooling etc. Anyone know how or why that is? vs. the stuff tandy has? Thanks FHL FERG

WOW, I hadn't looked at this post in quite a while. It's taken on a life of it's own. Thanks for everyone's thoughts on the matter. And for what it's worth, I didn't want to use the technique on my seats. I have something else in mind that Ithink this would be on point for. I too agree with most of the rants and that a seat should be hand tooled, unique, and one of a kind; just like the person that made it and just like the person riding on it.

The topic description for this forum seem to suit this best: "Don't know where to post? If it's about leatherwork, put it here." I had a lump in my forearm develop over the last two years. At one point about 9 months ago I went to the doc and he didn't seem concerned. Said it looked like muscle tissue, nothing to be concerned of. It's still in the back of my head that it could be something worse, but I haven't followed through with any kind of scan or anything. I was just sitting at the workbench pounding away at a piece of leather and something occured to me. As I'm holding the hammer and pounding, the muscle (right at the lump) was cramping. I'm starting to think that the lump is actually over developed muscle from all the leatherwork I've been doing over the last few years. Anyone else have an obviously developed muscle in the forearm of the hammering arm? Mine is on the top side, closer to the elbow. Just curious.... FERG

The project is mostly salvaged. It was 5 different pieces and I was able to save all but one with the vinegar. Anywhere there was black mold it worked fine, anywhere there was yellow mold it's trash.

Several searches on leatherworker.net turned up similar results. Most people are recomending using vinegar to kill and remove the mold. This, however, was on pieces that were finished and were being restored. I am going to give it a try and see what happens. Cross your fingers....

Wasn't sure where to put this topic so I appologize if I put it in the wrong place. Life got in the way of a project and I made the mistake of storing it in a plastic container. I had cased the leather properly, layed down the image, and cut it with the swivel knife and was ready to tool. Thats where I stopped. I came back to it today after nearly a week and BLACK MOLD was all over the leather with some yellow mold in small areas! D'OH! So that was my Homer moment. How can I fix it? Is it salvagable or is it garbage? Will it affect the dye and sealant process? I rinsed the piece while lightly scrubbing it with a dish brush from the kitchen sink (sorry honey I will replace it) and taht seems to have removed everything that is visible. My concern is that the leather is damaged now and these places will show through the dye or won't accept dye, or that there is mold in the piece at it's core and that will resurface later. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE HELP!! Sincerely, FHL FERG aka Bonehead!

It's not that thick, the picture is a little misleading. I use the ECO Flo because it's flexible, unlike the neat lac which is pretty rigid. I used my air brush to lay down about 4-5 really light coats. So far, so good. Only time will tell for sure.