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stanly

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Posts posted by stanly

  1. Posted · Report reply

    While I like the idea that I may NOT have to pull the connecting rod out to polish out the galling that I probably caused, little suspicious of ""miricle in a can" claims. Of course, I'm not right next to a truck stop so it's little more than run over and see if they carry it.

    Is this the product U recomend -

    Motorkote MK-30301-12 Spray Lubricant - 12 oz.

    MotorKote Multi Purpose Spray Lubricant with MotorKote hyper lubricant added.

    or this - Motorkote MK-HL10-06 10oz Hyper Lubricant

    MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant additive is a premium synthetic heavy-duty formulation that bonds to metal surfaces on contact.

    Don't suppose Motorcote said "satisfaction guranteed" on the can?

    Before I tell you what I have used I want to inform the many professional sewing machine people that I have tried this and in two weeks I see no buildup of dirt etc.

    There is a product called "Motor Kote". It was formulated for use in Semi Tractors and most anything that turns or has a motor. I put it in everything I own PU truck, cars, sliding table saw carriage, etc.

    They now have the product in a spray can. The feet on my machine began "Hanging Up" when I pushed on the knee lift. Determined it might be the foot lift rod. I oiled it regularly with little result, lightly sprayed it with Motor-Kote, it has been working perfectly ever since.

    BTW: The product is available at Meijer's if you have one and a number of truck stops. They have a web site: https://www.motorkote.com/ with free shipping.

    ferg

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I'll admit that I didn't stop right away and oil when I first heard this (1-2 ft guessing).

    When I oil the cam & follower it stops for 5-10 stitches, 2 or 3 times that if I use grease on it.

    SO, why won't it stay quiet, have I completely ruined one or other or both?

    Also admit that I'm not using this machine regularly and getting the cover off to oil needs special wrench so it's pretty much my fault anyway you look at it.

  3. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    Okay, thanks. I'm just loathing to have to buy all new tools and snaps again, but it looks like that's what I'm gonna have to do. Thanks for all your help!

    I'll admit to being FAR from most experienced -

    I'm using this Tandy set for my Segma snaps and rapid rivets.

    I put couple pieces of paper on anvil because I was worried about marking.

    After the Tandy snaps were set I needed to breakin by using pliers to close first time.

    There is a onsite T vid of some old guy named Hurst demoing :specool:

    Item #8105-00

    This is the best universal snap and rivet setter offered anywhere. Sets Multi Purpose Segma Type Fasteners #1250, Line 20 Fasteners #1261, Line 24 Fasteners #1263, Rapid Rivets and Double Cap Rivets.

    Smashtoad:

    My best guess is that you have to set them on a surface with roughly the resistance of another planet. Any bounce or give in the setting process will foil you. This includes the bounce provided by a dish towel between the setting surface and a kitchen table. Seriously...I cannot figure these things out. Thinking about trying Snapsource prong snaps? Pearl might be nice.

    Well yes, I did have best results when I used a concrete block sitting idrectly on floor, but T employee showed me how to set double caps using the anvil on cutting table (admit she had to give couple wacks).

    PS: NOT affiliated in anyway w/ Tandy

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I wouldn't let insects attack it.Your skin might get damaged.I haven't tried it without the acetone but I expect it might work, don't know just doing what the taxidermist said.Dave

    Insect idea seemed questionable after I thought.... went out last night and scraped and washed w/ dishwash soap.

    I've heard about removing the membrane....how can I tell if the scraping did this/ what does it look like?

    Do I Scrape/ wash&brush until I can see pattern from inside?

    OK, now have 2 home recipies/methods:

    FWIW: the site that formerly sold a snake tanning kit - rittlesupplies.net - is now a VAMPIRE site.

    From - Bob Myers at the Albuquerque International Rattlesnake Museum

    (interesting site if u want to learn about Rattlers, also covers skinning)

    http://crotalus.kitt...net/tanning.htm

    From - Tannery.net

    (has simpler recipie)

    http://www.thetanner.../snakeskin.html

    combination of above - has safety tips

    http://www.ehow.com/...snake-skin.html

    Seems all I'm missing is glycerin and bunch of push pins

  6. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    Holly, they are not hard to tan, but a might smelly.There are some commercial kits out there( reptile tanning ), But I contacted a Taxidermist after getting a batch of rattlesnakes and he gave us his formula.First you must determine where to cut the skin(some snakes such as moccasins have prettier bellies than backs), then cut it, I use a razor knife.Clean all meat particles off it and wash with dishwashing soap and water and hang to dry a bit.When dry I layout and pin down onto cardboard.

    I have a roadkill snakeskin and while I don't expect it to ever be good for more than inserts would like to preserve it as much as possible. Partly cleaned and have it in a tub of water right now.

    Just going to bump this thread with my questions:

    wondering if I could set the skin out and let insects do the final cleaning or would they go to work on skin too?

    dry it, THEN pin it down?

    After mixing the formula(1/3 Acetone,1/3 Denatured alcohol, and 1/3 Glycerin) I lberally apply several coats and let dry.Flip over hide and repeat.after airing out and drying

    could I use a soaking solution of alcohol and glycerin instead? (acetone seems harsh)

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I use small single letter hand stamps, and it's very difficult to get them lined up and spaced for a professional look and it's very time consuming.

    Like u at first I struggled with the line up. Then I thought - "What this really needs is a guide" taped down a double thickness of cardboard and bumped raised portion of each stamp aginst it Just before striking.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hello,

    I'm new here. I am a seller, and want to be able to offer personalized belts to people on the fly.

    I am wondering how that would be done. Anyone here who does that now?

    I have done stamping of letters on small bracelets on the fly, and there is the issue

    of moisture, and drying. I have been wondering if some kind of light heat with a

    fan would be good.

    Anyway, if anyone does this now can you tell me about you process?

    -dale

    You know, I've wondered this myself. And subject to hearing from someone who has actually done it OR me going into experimenting mode....would think that a heat box using hair dryer would be the way to go. Of course I'd experiment on some scraps before just sticking a good belt in a shoebox with a hairdryer.

  12. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    my 3 chioces would be

    copy Tandy or just use the measurments

    this thread-Pattern wanted for Wallet and Billfoldsinserts-

    http://leatherworker...?showtopic=3368

    measure old wallet and copy

    u will discover that it's the interiors that make the wallet (and make u crazy), not the craving on the back

    PS to Texas L: the piece of whatever fabric helps keep the wallet thinner I'm sure, think that when u can't see it anything that holds up is ok. As far as linings - look at KK and some of the fancier ones in the wallets&.... subforum.

    Think Tandy has some kind of poly fabric for this purpose.

    PPS: just remember people (maybe even u) may have to sit on their wallet for hours, so thinner is better.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Thank you for the info. You don't sound like an old grump, but I'll take your word for it. I vaguely remember your situation, I quit smoking in 1963. What is vinegaroon? When I was stationed at Ft. Bliss in TX a vinegaroon was a big bug. The dilution factor is 5 parts dye, I part alky, right? You are right about the polish, even after much polishing a little bit still comes off. I will be trying Fiebings oil dyes in the future.

    Sarge

    vinegroon is old time concoction made by disolving iron in vinegar (simple explanation), got search?

    I'll just go ahead and say that w/ 5 parts of dye u probably would not see much diff. between full strength.

    If you're going to continue experimenting.... there are shoe Dyes.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Well.....all gud feedback here.....guess now instead buying

    A new sewing machine soon, I will have to save up

    Money to buy a small metal lace.....boy would that be the trick...

    Making ur own handwheel and hub! Then make small screwak

    And minor parts.....the possibilities are almost endless....haha...

    Just a thought...

    James

    Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel.

    As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.)

    Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here).

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo)

    Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)?

    several trips to outlying farm stores later:

    11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing).

    4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt).

    Speeds table:

    (calculated for a 1750 rpm motor)

    2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys)

    2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel)

    2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11")

    5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?)

    KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match."

    DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore.

    (hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all)

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