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stanly

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Posts posted by stanly

  1. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    harnessman user_popup.png

    Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:27 AM

    snapback.pngStocksuspension, on 28 August 2010 - 11:05 PM, said:were did you buy that pulley?

    "Hi

    It is a Hubless weld on stamped steel pulley used around here in Wisconsin on farm equipment. I bought the pulley at Mills Fleet Farm, the local farm supply store. You can also find them at any farm implement dealer. If you do not have a farm implement store handy you can probably find them on line at TSC (tractor supply co.)"

    You know I liked this idea too, so I went down to my local farm supply store and found th aisle with these.

    First problem was 3/8" belt is not most common, but even though my Monster Pulley is a 4/8" because they made it wo/ a bottom a 3/8" belt rides lower in grove, but works (means I may not have to change my motor pully to 4/8" after all).

    Now the question is: how slow is too slow? (I will have a 2 1/2" motor pulley driving 11" when this is over)

    a 11" instead of 10" because of the low grove thing + cheaper to switch the smaller motor pulleys

    Trox: I'm still working out details like spacer and belt sizes, mostly due to stocking level zero of some items at farm store.

  2. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    I got some backs and interiors from Springfield and I'd like to know if anyone grooves and overstitch marks the interiors?

    If not, what's the best method of keeping things straight?

    God Bless, Ray

    So u have prestitched interiors?

    I'll go ahead and say the stitching is more imprortant on the outside. Some just let the back side stitching fall where it may, but some CREASE back side and kind of "feel" for the needle point just before it comes through, then adjust acordingly. Usually these are heavier wt., simpler items than wallet interiors.

    I emphasize the crease part because some interiors are thin enough that any grooving would prob. go 1/2 way through.

    hope this helps

  3. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    YOU SHOULD LOOK JUST A LITTLE CLOSER, THEY ARE NOTTT DRAWER PULLS!!!!

    SHOULD REALLY DO A LTTLE MORE RESEARCH BEFORE MAKING A COMMENT LIKE THIS ESPECIALLY AS YOUR FIRST POST, WELCOME BY THE WAY.

    U know even it he is wrong - your custom hardware looks very similar to this, and this is much more available:

    (guess I need the how to post pic tutorial)

    31001_080310.jpg

    http://www.build.com...pgr_1400966=

  4. Posted · Report reply

    this has all been helpful.....so, what about Rice where they have a letter size:

    Rice Polyamide Silamide Thread Spools Size - F / 140 yards:

    $4.50

    Rice / N.B.T. Brand Silamide Waxed Thread Skeins Size - A / 675 yards:

    $6.50

    I'm guessing this is a thinner thread?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Neat idea Anne. Essentially a wedge when going backwards.

    Back to the op topic: The reason it is not a simple retrofit is the thread fed by the needle must be fully wrapped around the bobbin. This would require a much longer travel for the takeup bar (or whatever the arm is called that pulls the needle thread tight after the bulk of it is pulled around the bobbin) to account for all the extra thread that would have to be fed to get around a full spool. The thread fed by the needle must move from one side of the bobbin thread to the other and the only way to get there is to make the trip around the bobbin.

    A chain-stitch machine grabs the thread from the needle and holds onto it as the needle makes its up-stroke. During the next down-stroke the loop that is being held onto is positioned so that the needle falls within the loop and the next loop is grabbed from the needle before it makes its up-stroke creating a series of interlocking loops. This is a common way of stroring extension cords that are too short to need a spool but too long to have just lay around.

    Thanks for getting back to this:

    para 1- I'm having a tough time visualizing this - don't suppose u have an illustration handy?

    pars 2- U know the chainstitch I am talking about is 2 thread, NOT daisychain?

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I'll put up the Utube links of machines that seem be doing this:

    This looks like a machine doing exactly what I'm talking about.... and showing the bobbin case (in about .22), but I can't see how it's routed.

    http://www.youtube.c...feature=related

    Sorry I confused everyone else be telling how I arrived at asking such an odd question (seemed to me).

    The Union Lockstitch machine is the closest I have seen with the big bobbin that holds around 100-150 yards of thread. There was one set of drawings I have seen that used a tube for the hookshaft and ran the thread through that. If anything ever comes to fruition, it will set the prewound bobbin industry on it's ear. It is just hard to imagine that American, English, and German ingenuity would not have developed something to replace the bobbin.

    Art

    Thanks Art

    link to 2 thread chainstitch machine - invented 1994

    http://zarif-sewingmachine.blogspot.com/

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I'm wondering if it's possible to adapt a lockstitch flatbed machine to feed the thread from a spool instead of a bobbin?

    I heard from my local sewing machine dealer that this is common for Chainstitch machines and used some kind of tube?

    Guessing for feeding/routing, maybe open on side to make it easier to get thread in?

    Are there clear pictures of this setup somewhere?

    Esp. what happens going into the bobbin case?

    Thanks

    This guy had same question - never got answered

    http://leatherworker...h=1

    And for kicks - here's a link that illustrates some of the different stitching types (being formed)

    http://oldsewingmach...candanex.co.uk/

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Looks like I can't edit, so....

    over wkend-found out 1"x1/2" glue area was way too much unless I wanted to windup lifting 10gal., revised to 1/4"x1".

    (Chart interpolated to reflect)

    I'll continue as soon as I can rig to support/lift 5gal+

    (milk jugs seem to be leaking @ caps)

    glues:

    Gorilla glue (wood)= 74oz

    Tanners Bond = 1 gal+ 50oz

    Strong Stik = 5gal+

    Hotmelt glue = 5gal+

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I decided to test the 4 glues I found locally (hardware + Tandy).

    While I didn't get all the way through due to hardward fail, I'm going to put up result anyway before wkend.

    I'm also putting up the rig I'm using to test with in hope that others will join in and make this a more comprehensive test - esp like to hear from the green Weldwood, Masters, any homebrew that people use.

    1.- 2" wide strip of TV dinner box folded in half and glued with shiny side out.

    2.- use test glue to glue 2 of these strips (now 1" wide) toghther in a lap jount at end so there is 1/2" overlap.

    3.- You should now should have 2 strips glued end to end by a 1/2" lap joint

    4.- reinforce one of non glue test ends of strip by by glueing a 2" doubled strip around the end - this is end weight hangs from. (I punched hole and hung weight from nail/shoelace)

    5.- attach weight system of choice (I'm went with fluid oz) and pick up slowly to avoid shock load.

    glues: Gorilla glue (wood) Tanners Bond Strong Stik Hotmelt glue

    fail: 1 gal + 20oz hardware hardward

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I've found that sometimes the Tanners Bond #C-1339 from Tandy just doesn't stick as well as I'd like.

    Anyone tried this:

    saw a "new" product from DAP at lumber store (daygo orange package, abut a 6 or 8 oz tube), claims to have 10 min set time.

    http://www.dap.com/p...=76&SubcatID=10

    01310.jpg

    :whatdoyouthink:

    reading the MSDS doesn't seem all that friendly until u read the info on other products.

  18. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    I've got a couple of these (singer 111 - 211) for sale semi-local to me, so is there a list that gives the various options by model no.? (a 11w?)

    Is reverse one of those model options or could have been added later?

    will I see a big bar for this if they send me a pic?

    OK, found this, think some of my questions still apply though.

    only first link is giving specs for example.

    211a -------http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/211a.htm

    211w,g,gx: http://www.industria...ingers/211w.htm

    211u----http://www.industria...ingers/211u.htm

    411u----http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/411u.htm

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Is there a preferance for this reason? Wondering because some of members here refer to their finished projects as "bricks". It would seem to be contrary for something that you are going to be sitting on for perhaps hours at a time to value thickness. My latest wallet (biker) measures out at the binding as 3/8" and if I'd wanted to use liner material for the inner partitions it could have been less. Am I just shooting myself in foot by going this way (in terms to selling product)?

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Ohio Travel Bags has a good selection of this stuff

    in a 300pg cat. search found Skull conchos and belt buckles

    ta2:

    Try jpcycles.com, I've seen them in the catalog they send me

    I see belts and buckles - some wouldn't be caught dead in.

    (I know, should have bought some 3yrs ago when this was current)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    It might be able to hem Plonge leather garments (cuffs, hems), but is really meant for cloth.

    If you are asking if this machine will "sew" leather, as in wallets, vests, belts, holsters, absolutely NOT. It is a tailoring machine, used for hems and cuffs on shirts, pants and dresses.

    thanks: kind of what I deduced from Sewmum last reply, but always good to get it in definite terms.

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