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stanly

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Posts posted by stanly

  4. Posted · Report reply

    A sort of French Seam may give you the best looking results, but it'll take a bit of planning. I think that some of the overlapping material in the junction of the two seams will need to be trimmed out in order to keep there from being too much in the way. If it were me, Id be working with some scraps just to make sure I'd gotten the technique down and it looked the way I wanted it to before going ahead with the real thing, though.

    guess it does kind of seem like a French Seam, w/ a crease in place of the first sew line. (had to look up French Seamhere) http://koumori-no-hi...orial-326817095 Planned on doing trial run w/ squares of cloth even though not quite same as odd angles on cap.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Ques about seam overlaps-

    I'm making a custom cap with earflaps for someone and I had to use standin for the guy's head so I'm giving a double seam allowance (1"), that I'm planning to fold back on itself. This is to me some extra to work with in case an adjustment is needed.

    To make it more interesting this will be outside seamed and I'm planning to machine sew a line about 1/8" above the finishing line of whipstitch.

    My question is since the cap is made of four pieces that join together at the top is there a way of doing this that doesn't give me a really thick bunch of leather in center?

    Of course I'd like to do this with continuous lines of L to Rt and Front to Back stitching if possible.

  10. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    Thanks! I bought it ready to go with a 3/4 servo motor, its at its slowest setting so I'm all good there. I am terrified of adjusting the bobbin tension, heck, I can hardley get the thing back in after. Not accustomed to a horizontal loaded bobbin... OMG the curse words that came out of my mouth my husband was laughing! BUt, if it must be then it must be. :)

    everyone seems to experience this at first = feed dog needs to be moved up (rotate machine), the first couple times I crawled under table to see what the heck... I'll admit to some jealousy about servo, I cheaped out and went Monster wheel route.

    Well Im glad you said that... After again finding it impossible to use my 29-K, I decided to just buy a cylinder arm. But I couldn't deal with the test and sew, rinse repeat. I need something reliable and consistent.

    Sewing fairly thin 2-3oz embossed and other leather. Some lamb if I ever get different feed dogs. May be I was giving it mor ethat it could chew?

    u can put layers of masking tape on dogs to smooth them some, U prob. got a selection so already know there are different walking feet that have no teeth (or could file down for permanent fix of you're fav feet). Flat bed is cheaper, but can be challenge to to sew inside some things. With a table on arm the cylinder can do every thing a flat can.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    guessing you've already tried this or gotten some local advice, but for anyone else who stumbles across this.

    the enclosed motor (and I don't remember rating on mine - 1A maybe) limits how much "needle push through" these home sewing types can generate and the bottom feed means that u may have to assist machine to pull the leather through (even if it's just triple thickness light weight wallet interior).

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I'm timed out, but there should be a online guide to threading yours or similar machine.

    PS: maybe try this ques in SEWING MACHINES subforum

    Make sure the bobbin is unwinding in the right direction and that your top thread enters the correct side of the needle. I've had similar problems when I run the thread through the wrong side after not sewing for a while. All of my machines have different orientations, and I inevitably forget.

  16. Posted · Edited by stanly · Report reply

    Think the answer here is, it depends.... on how smooth u make the flesh side, whether we are talking short or long term, type of dye, etc.

    For max resistance I'd use spirt dye over as smooth as u can get it by sanding, slick it afterward, then put on a sealer followed with a wax of some type.

    U are right-guitar strap would be quite a bit of stitching: did u consider lacing the edges or tacking the lining on then taking to upholstery shop for the sewing?

    Hello everyone! I am currently in the process of making a guitar strap and I have a question. If I leave the strap unlined and dye the back side (flesh side) with Fiebing's leather dye, will the dye rub off on clothing when the strap is used? If so, how do I prevevnt this from happening? I really want to line the strap and I have some beautiful maple colored glazed pig skin to do it with, but I do not have a sewing machine and would have to stitch it by hand which would take a very long time. I haven't completely decided against it, but I am considering my options at this point. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Forum seems very courtious, so wondering if there is unwritten rule about not grilling the poster about their proposed project in the thread.

    Example: topicpreview.png attachicon.gif Replacing My Dad's Belt - now this is an item that u can still buy new and I'm guessing is produced by some kind of process that would be foreign to most of us.

    SO, is he looking for a stronger "look alike", knows all of the above and is willing to Pay for some experimentation, hasn't heard of Ebay...?

    FWIW: I've finished off (as torn apart) a couple of similar belts and it seems like 2 very thin layers of leather (sometimes) bonded/molded around a fiber core that gives the shape and cushioned feel . They seem to fail in same place because of this construction.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Just for comparison (from http://msds.chem.ox.ac.uk), the lowest published lethal dosage (LDlo) in humans (men and women) and lethal dose 50% kill (LD50) for rats for common household acids taken orally (as compared to inhalation or other methods or exposure) are:

    -oxalic acid as oxalic acid dihydride: LDlo of 600 mg/kg in humans for oral ingestion, and for rats, LD50 7,500 mg/kg for oral ingestion

    -acetic acid = LDlo 308 mg/kg in humans (no method of intake was given), and for rats, LD50 of 3,310 mg/kg for oral ingestion

    -boric acid = LDlo of 200 mg/kg and also 429 mg/kg for oral ingestion in humans (woman and man, respectively), and for rats, LD50 2,660 mg/kg for oral ingestion

    -acetylsalicylic acid (asprin) = LDlo of 104 mg/kg and also ~ 400 mg/kg for oral ingestion in humans (child and man, respectively), and for rats, LD50 200 mg/kg for oral ingestion

    -citric acid as citric acid monohydrate: no data given for humans, and for rats, LD50 of 11,700 mg/kg for oral ingestion

    So based on common concentration of these chemicals (excluding citric acid) for oral ingestion only and based on the lowest reported fatal dosage, the order of increasing toxicity for humans is: oxalic acid dihydride < acetic acid < boric acid < acetylsalicylic acid. For a 50% kill rate in rats, the order is farily similar: citric acid < oxalic acid dihydride < acetic acid < boric acid < acetylsalicylic acid.

    All this means of course, that if you ingested a similar concentration of any these acids, the citric acid will generally be the least lethal and acetylsalicytic acid the most. It doesn't mean that they are "safe", but it doesn't mean they are automatically extremely dangerous either. It just means that you need to follow instructions carefully, take reasonable precautions against splashes, accidental ingestion, skin exposure, and inhalation, that you don't mix it with anything else (even another "safe" chemical or solution), and you clean everything up afterwards and dispose of it properly.

    oxalic acid also is used as deck bleach- found at building supply stores iin liquid form.

    AND mostly what I'm getting from the above tables is .... Damn those rats are tough.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    HellfireJack Posted Yesterday, 07:20 PM

    I read somewhere that after you clean them you grasp the tip between the lips and spin it to help maintain the shape.

    Can't saty for sure, but my mother (years ago) used to clean a brush then dip it in egg white, form it, and allow to dry and sit for a day or two. Rinse in warm water and dry before using. Mike

    These both seem like good ideas, maybe I should have mentioned brushes very small and some are shaders (flat).

    Normally answer might be toss them and get new ones, but even some of the new ones seem to be this way.

    Hellfirejack-so what I'm getting is U think it would help if I spun them & spit on brushes.

    (I also heard that story about workers who used to put radium dots on watches - guess that didn't make it seem like recommendation)

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