talon

I didn't think about that. I'll have to give it a shot! The offer still remains if any one has one available. Thanks, Clay

I think you made the right choice, I had a problem with a customer about a year ago. He emailed me detailed drawings of what he wanted, then he actually told me that since he had shown me the drawings, if I ever produced it on a larger scale he expected royalties! Seriously? The best part is that his "unique" design had been on the market years prior, and while produced by a number of custom holster shops, never succeeded because of comfort issues..... I didn't even charge the guy a fair price because I was new and looking to get any bit of business I could. I would certainly stay clear of people like this. A customer who really values what you do will understand that you know a lot about holsters and will seek your advice and judgement. Good Luck!

I'm looking to compile a list of gun molds that a lot of us need. Duncans once told me that if they had 6 people request a single gun, they would make the mold for it. Please post a list of all of the gun molds that you would like and I will start compiling them into an order sheet we can give to Duncans. Thanks

I'm really in need of a Duncans Taurus PT145 mold. Will pay $70.00 for it. Does anyone have one? Thanks! Clay

Duncans Kel-Tec P3AT aluminum mold for sale! $35.00 Payment via Paypal. Contact me if interested. Thanks! Clay

I'm interested in the following, Please let m know if they are available. Taurus PT140 Beretta Tomcat Beretta 21A Keltec P3AT Thanks, Clay

Also interested in the PT 138

Looking for a PT 145 and PT 132 gun mold. Any one have one available? Thanks! Clay

Email sent Would like the following Colt Mustang .380 Colt Government .380 Colt Pony .380 Taurus TCP 738 SIG P238 w/SIG laser Magnum Research Micro D.E. .380 H&K P7PSP

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83243TF8-ZBT-Nut, Straight Barrel, 3 Prong, 1/2"Flange,8-32 Steel/Zinc Black Bought these for a project but never needed them. 500 pcs (plus or minus 10) Great for leather an kydex. <br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> Make me an offer.

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I have a ton of small leather belt loops for IWB holsters that need to be dyed, has anyone ever tried submerging leather fully into the dye? What should I be concerned about if I do this? Thanks

I have 900 (plus or minus 10) zinc plated 3 prong steel t-nuts with the following specifications. Thread size: 8-32 Flange Diameter: 23/32" Barrel Height: 1/4" Make me an offer

Thanks for that. I like the table and fence that you put in there. Do you find that when you use a tool with a smaller diameter that it stays stable? Thanks, Clay

Thanks Tom, I've seen that its fairly common for people to use arbor presses for this use. It makes a lot of sense. Thats actually what I've done to mine as well, although my top dies just press in instead of using a set screw. I also had another problem, my drill press is only a bench model and didn't have the height to drill the end of the ram. I had to stretch to get it to work and it cause me to drill the hole at a slight angle. This makes it a bit harder to set snaps well as it tends to roll one side more than the other. This route will take out that need. (my only other option to correct it is to take it to a machine shop because I don't think I could drill it accurately by hand). The other advantage of this, for me atleast, is that it allows me to create a new insert cheaply if I need to use it for another type of die that requires a different hole size. Excellent idea for the bottom die. That would be a very firm way of holding the die. -Clay Thanks for the news. I think that would be a great option, the only problem for me is that I can't set rivets with it.

I suppose that method might work for some. There are a few reasons why I think the press would be a better option. 1. Strength. A drill press's rack and pinion system is not designed to withstand the level of force that the press can generate. Often with a dill press you will find the head is held in place with only a single set screw on the column, not exactly built for rigidity. 2. Wear of a precision machine. Since a drill press is not meant for such use, I would be concerned about the wear that will take place on your rack and pinion system. We take for granted the accuracy you can get out of even a low cost drill press, and that accuracy and repeatability can easily be ruined. 3. Cost, I know that previously I suggested that it would require a drill press, but in reality it only requires a drill. Generally speaking, a drill press will be more expensive than an arbor press. Just my opinion of course.

OK, here is the first batch of drawings. I haven't made one yet but I hope to get to it next week. Really it can be built using just a hack saw, drill, and appropriate taps. (obviously other tools could simplify the process). The sleeve (a piece of 11 guage 1" x 1.5" rectangular steel tubing) mounts to the ram of the press using set screws and two spacers (made of .5 x .25" flat stock) then the a steel insert is placed in the sleeve that has a hole drilled in it to accept a modified (shortened) hand setting tool from Tandy. OpenPress.zip

OK, I posted about this earlier but now have a better direction and figured it warranted a new, more focused thread. Background I've wanted to get into a press for setting rivets and snaps for quite some time. Now I finally have the financial means to do it, but really see the value in a low cost option for setting hardware. Even the cheapest routes put you around $200 for a cheap hand press and single set of dies. I know that for some small guys thats way to much to spend on such an item. Concept The idea is to create a cheap and simple design for a press based around the inexpensive arbor presses found at Harbor Freight Tools. I think that one could build an effective press for various harware using basic tools (drill press, hack saw, tap) and modify inexpensive hand setting tools and punches for dies ($15 bucks per die set instead of $60). Here, I want to present my ideas and open it up to others can offer some valuable input. Estimated Cost Arbor Press - $34.99 Metal - $24.29 Shipped Set Screws - $3.00 Tandy Snap-All/Rivet Setter Set $18.00 Total Price: $80.28 If you are interested, Please let me know on here! I hope this work will be beneficial for someone. I'm just putting the finishing touches on my drawings and I'll post them up with the material specs in the next day or two. Thanks Clay

I realize this post is pretty dang old, but I was just wondering if you still had the item. Thanks, Clay

So, the only problem with a machine that uses constant pressure is that it seems like it would struggle with setting some types of rivets. Do you think it would be feasible to use a pneumatic air chisel to set a copper rivet? Thanks

So, I've been doing a bit of research on various presses for rivets and snaps. I've tried to look on here but haven't found much information about the topic. I did find what seems to be a good price on a press at Ohio Travel Bag supply with their European economy model hand press. The problem is I don't know much about hand presses of foot presses for that matter! So hear is the plan, I've seen others do a similar thing but I want to make mine a bit easier to use. Basically it will be a "bolt on" kit that works with any 1-2 ton arbor press to allow it to accept either European dies or American dies. The idea is that a user won't have to machine their own arbor press but instead just bolt on this little attachment. I'd like to maybe recover my costs by selling a few of them or maybe even giving the plans away on here once I get the drawings done. So what do you think? Would you guys be interested in something like that? Thanks

I'm wondering if you guys know where I could find Black double cap rivets. At a number of leather suppliers you can find a steel rivet http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1373-13.aspx that isn't very dark and typically the black finish is quickly rubbed off. I've seen them before on leather goods but have no idea where to find them. They almost look like they had a black oxide finish or black phosphate. Thanks!

I'll take the KT P3at Kel Tec PM9 (do you mean PF9? or Kahr PM9?) HK P7