Driften

I am getting better but still have a ways to go, but I am happy with this one for personal user. I need to work on my stitching, boning, and process flow. I think I may need to have made the holster a little wider to give the second belt loop a little more width. I had not decided when I made the pattern if I was going do the second one as a tunnel or go though to the other side like is a little more standard on this style of holster. I liked the look that lobo did on his "Modified Avenger" so I gave it a try. I also reduced the size of the stiffener going around the mouth of the holster from the large one I did last time. I also ran the sweat/body guard so that it slightly protects the rear sight. The holster feels nice on the belt and I can get a full grip on the gun when drawing. How does my design look?

For the past few days I have tried to look at bluegunstore.com and I am getting a redirect to a site suspended page. Anybody else having this issue or know whats up? Thanks

I really like this holster. You did a great job on it.

I got my feet wet on holster making. For my first holster was for my Walther PPK. I followed Particle's video on making an Avenger style of holster. That mostly went well but it was hard keeping track when the video was "upside down" from my view point. I ended up putting the wrong side of the pattern up when I cut the leather so it instantly became a left hand holster. It did help me with my pattern though. I am learning from doing it! Here is that first holster This is a picture on my belt but it was before I finished the belt loop. It does fit really nice even when sitting. My second holster was a pancake holster from the SLC pattern for my Glock 17. I had some issues with using some british spirit dye where it looked really blotchy so I used some of the Italian water based dye that Tandy sells in blue over it. I wanted to see if some other color worked as nice as the black did on the PPK holster. It actually works well. I am currently working on a holster for my Walther PPS.

You can always rent a blue gun it will end up costing about $25 to rent after shipping and such from www.bluegunstore.com. It seems even if you had a pattern you would still want to do some molding to a gun. FYI Tandy sells a vertical shoulder holster pattern set that includes the Beretta 92. Its $2.99 right now for digital download (pdf). https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1721-shoulder-holster-pattern-4416.aspx?

I have read on other sites that people have had issues dealing with Boachtactical, but maybe they have improved in service.

Actually I bet you would really like http://smartflix.com/store/video/2664/Frontier-Holsters Chuck Burrows makes some really nice traditional holsters and has some tips that would have improved yours some. I really enjoyed them. I have not watched the John Bianchi ones. He is an expert in the field also. I have ordered Bianchi's book "Blued Steel and Gun Leather" to read up on his experiences of designing and making holsters.

Great job! I can see why its a popular style of holster. Quick question... where are you getting the black pull the dot snaps? The places I have seen online never seem to have black.

You did a great job on everything! I do really like the last rig. You really nailed the belt loops like you said.

I have had lesser magnets kill a pocket watch. I sure would not want to pass an expensive watch like a Rolex or Omega past one. I was able to help the pocket watch with a demagnitizer but most people would have one.

Love the holster!

Thanks! I will keep that in mind.

Actually found a basic distance for the stitch line based off thickness on the Adams Leatherwork youtube video.... Thanks for the tip to make sure I take the laser into account in that way!

Is there a basic rule of thumb for how far to make the stitch line from the profile of the gun based of thickness?

Go it so stick with around 8-10oz total weight for the body of the holster. When using two 4/5oz bonded do you make that in advance and then treat it like its one piece of leather or do you handle it like you are adding a lining? Or sometimes one way and sometimes the other? Mattsh it looks like you treated it like one piece in your "Holster Design (long)" thread. BTW Thanks for that thread! I sure bookmarked it along with woolfe's IWB thread. Lots of great threads I am still working my way though here. Any tips for holsters for guns with mounted lasers or lights?

I have a few questions about a holster I am thinking of making. This is going to be a pancake or Avengers style holster. Also on my list are some IWB's after tying OWB's. To start with this is just for me as I learn. I have been thinking about doing some holsters for a while and at one point I was going to make a mexican loop holster but its lower on the priority list for right now. I have (and watched ) Chuck Burrows DVD's on Frontier holsters that provided some guidance but this project is more modern that that. This first holster would be for a Walther PPS I have but I want to make it with a small Crimson Trace rail master laser installed. I know if I did it with kydex I would need to provide a channel (like you would do for the front sight) along the trigger guard for it since the laser is slightly wider then the trigger guard. Do you need to do that for leather? Anything else I should plan for to support the laser? I have done some kydex and have a press setup for that, can I use that to mold the leather? What weight veggie tanned leather should I be getting for the project? I know for a western holster people use 10oz and up in order to hold up to match use. If going a "modern" OWB holster with a reenforced mouth am I still using 10oz or is it more 8-9oz. The cowhide Kramer IWB I have measures out at 10oz for the body so is that my answer? Or do IWB's run a little heavy to keep come closing under pressure that a OWB do not have?

I agree amazing work! Thanks so much for sharing the pictures...

One thing to remember is if later you need to mold a holster with a laser or light attached to that rail you will have to dig out the filler or something to make it work.....