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leathersmyth

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About leathersmyth

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    Male
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    Calgary,Alberta,Canada

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Pretty much everything and anything over the last 50 + years of leather work..
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  1. Thanks for info! It was the Check spring on the needle bar that was causing the issue... Took about 15 min to pull apart, replace and get back together. Sews like a new machine now... Such a small part, but plays huge role in how thread loops to catch the hook...
  2. Thanks for response. I have been threading patchers for 50 years or so......... so fiqure that should be okay... 29-3 needle system.. Timing is set up how should be, needle right way.. (been over 40 years since put needle in wrong way.. ) Only thing is check spring was totally messed up... and jerry rigged so at least it sort of works how should, but still needs to be replaced.. Wont be an issue replacing spring when it gets here... (have pulled machines apart many times through the years......) Might be all that is stopping from working proper.. But no one around here has so ordered one few days ago, but wont be here for few weeks..... any guess /thought if any other model carrier shuttle carrier would work if try to replace? bobbin race? or is the 29k51 specific to just that model??
  3. I picked up a 29k51 the other day and overall its in good shape. pulled completely apart when got back home...... The person selling didnt know much about it other than it would not sew. So now that it is cleaned up and all back together, the timing is how it should be... But when the hook catches the thread, it pulls it under the shuttle carrier piece instead of just the bobbin, and stops sewing. Any guess or thoughts on why it is looping under the shuttle carrier? I put the needle in that came with machine plus one from my 29k71 and same thing. The check spring was a mess when pulled apart and does need a new one, but i jigged it so at least it will work now instead of being bent like was... The timing is proper, everything is clean and running like should. It catches the thread proper, only thing is the looping under the carrier. Needles the cause, check spring the cause? any guesses would be great! Plus, is the shuttle carrier still available even though from other models (does anyone know?) ? interchangeable?? If so, any guess what model would fit it?
  4. can you contact me at 780 913 7241

    I have questions about those frobana/simplex sole patchers

     

    Thanks,

     

    brent

    20180529_171423.jpg

  5. Those are/were locks that were found on leather gladstone bags.... They were usually brass. They hook into a loop on the opposite side of the bag. Have made lots of cases that used those in te past...
  6. 31-15 is not a walking foot machine, Great machine for sewing light weight materials. But won't sew heavy .. So depends what you are sewing.
  7. These are the feet that are on my machines. They work for pretty much anything need to sew. They don't leave any marks on leather .
  8. Case Goods mostly, Depending what i am making and which machine i decide to play with..... those machines will sew about 3/8 inch material..... They still stitch beautiful....
  9. I have a couple of those machines, The needles i use are 135x17 . they are a size 24. I think ( dont quote me.. but i think i had to adjust the needle bar because they were a different length than they use to use.... I have used 138 and thicker thread on the machine , no problem....
  10. On those types of bags, the lining as put in last and then stitched, The only real way to get in there is to unstitch where the lining is sewn. Which will be the threads where the frame is.... It is going to be a chain stitch so if you open the chain the right way,it will just pull out like a flour sack stitch (if you have ever seen flour sacks that are stitched closed) You pull the thread as much as you need to ,to get your hand in to stitch the areas needed. I have rebuilt 100's of these sorts of bags,and made many of the style, so i know rebuilding will take time. And the thread will be finicky to restitch where you need to restitch.... Sometimes if there are areas of missing stitch with good areas in between,it is easier to pull out the good stitch and replace say 10 inch of thread with new thread rather than 6 inch of one stitch holes needing replacing.....
  11. By the looks of it, there was a "pull tab" at the center lock area. So you would grasp the tab to open. You can see the lighter area of colour on the side leather. The lining used would of been a irish linen material. The thread sewn with would prob of been a 4 cord irish linen thread. Maybe a 5 cord but most times were sewed 4 cord. Barbour irish linen thread was the main supplier/type of thread used back then. What colour is the thread? White or yellow were the main colours used on bags from that era... but back then barbours came in yellow,white,brown,black, were the main colours. But i have balls of thread in yellow,white,cream,brown,black,light blue,green,red,orange,grey,navy..... There is the yellow or tan that prob would of used back then. Needed to be run through a wax pot on machines when being sewed... Hand sewing you need to use beeswax on thread. Depends how far you want to rebuild it. You can pull completely apart, pull all the thread,restiffen leather,resew it all and put back together. Or restitch areas that need to be restitched, Brasso will make the locks shine again if you want that.
  12. I would be interested in the throat plates if you decide that they are taking up too much space...
  13. I would say 2/3 0z would be what you would want. Can use thicker,but will have to skive down on edges bit more,and the spine won't bend as easy. There are a couple ways you could do..... 1) Like the picture so the inside flap is stitched on the three sides.You have three pieces of leather. the outside and the two inside flaps...... 2) Other way, you make leather about 6/7/8 inch wider depending on how mch leather you want on the inside flaps..., you then fold the longer width on to itself, so when you stitch it you will only have stitches on the top and bottom of the cover and not the side edge. Doing that way, the corners would be square instead of following the book corners. You would only use one piece of leather for the entire cover. doing this way,and thickness of leather used,you might need to gauge a line at the fold so you get a nice fold..Biggest thing when making is you will need to have the cover fit when book is closed. If you make it to fit when the book is open,it will be too tight and book will not be able to close.
  14. I have prob 1000 clicker dies that i picked up from a company out of new york at one time when i bought a bunch of stuff when they closed up. There are all styles and sorts of wallet dies in the boxes. Keep thinking i should sell them....
  15. Yup, Those r what my stools look like..... Work Great!
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