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WinterBear

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Posts posted by WinterBear


  1. Sorry, WinterBear, I was being factious. Having imported this "russet" in good faith the supplier is now stuck with a heap of rotten leather he cant sell and the cost of returning it will be horrendous. They are not a big firm so the impact will be significant.

    I thought you might be but couldn't be sure without tone or body language to back it up. What a horrible blow to your supplier.

  2. Um, can't help without some more information. Can you give some more details? Is it colored? Is the finished side smooth, shiny, glossy, dull, patterned? Is the leather more soft and draping like a heavy fabric, or more rigid like cardboard, or something in between, or none of the above? Is the cut edge blueish in the middle, or is the leather the same color all the way through? What happens when you put a drop of water on the finished side--does it soak in, make a mark, sit on the surface?

    Pictures are good too.


  3. So, the leather is pretty much rubbish because it's degraded with red rot?

    Also, "chuffed". I'm a little confused, a little clarification for the dimwit over here. :dunno: I've heard this used to describe someone who was pleased. And also used to describe someone that is annoyed. Will your supplier be chuffed/pleased with the good news that the dust is just leather powder, or chuffed/displeased that the "good" news that the dust is red rot?


  4. Maybe try Shelly. She has some "kids" spur straps among the ones she clicks, for very small kids, and then she also has small mens and ladies clicked blanks as well. Better to email her than try and PM here here, as she doesn't always get all her PMs.

    http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33798

    Her email: shelly AT liggettenterprises DOT com

    Her website: www DOT liggettenterprises DOT com


  5. Well, the general rule of thumb is that the cuts should be 1/2 the thickness of the leather. And I think if you were to "walk" your bevelers a little more, and maybe smooth and round the numbers a bit with a modelling tool, and use the modeler to smooth the beveling a bit too, you'd be surprised with how much definition you'd get. I have a sneaking suspicion that the water content of the leather wasn't quite right, as the tool marks don't look like they've burnished very deeply or darkly. I'd say you're on the right track though.


  6. I have no idea what a rope can is, but I think the work is beautiful! Great tooling and the layout is amazing!

    Think of it as sort of a hat box for rope. You see them most often at a rodeo or for those who are working with stock (working cows for branding, etc). But I most often see them at rodeos for those that "tie down" animals. So someone who competes in goat or calf tying would keep the piggin strings in there, and calf tiers and team ropers will often have a larger can to keep lariats in. Why? Good ropes are expensive, and can be damaged if stepped on or allowed to be damp, so a rope can keeps them safe from having dirt ground into them by a careless boot (dirt is sharp and breaks the individual fibers, which weakens the rope), keeps them dry, and neatly organized.

    Beautiful work Double U. One of these days I'm going to see one of your rope cans, bronc halters, or belts in person, since I'm not all that far away.


  7. Leather paperweights/pattern weights. http://www.southtexassaddlery.com/Leather-Paperweight_p_66.html

    Tom thumb coin purses (usually made with an oval, but rounds will make a slightly shallower purse). http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6469&hl=%2Bceltic+%2Bcoin+%2Bpurse

    Top and/or bottom for jewelry box or closed dice cup: http://rodneykindlund.com/fine-art-craft/leather-art/olympus-digital-camera-24/#main

    Also:

    Bottoms for dice/pencil cups, leather tankards.

    Faces of small clocks.

    Jacket patches (see https://www.facebook.com/LowerClassLeather for some examples)

    "Rope can" or "canteen" coin purses/little girl's purse/small belt pouch.


  8. Clever! Love the skeletal fish on this, and the texturing. What finish did you use on the inside of this? Something to slick and seal to keep a damp hook from discoloring the lather?

    I could have used a couple of those when I was helping some kids fish this summer. One came over to watch me put split weights on another's line, and hadn't secured his lure. I didn't see him until he snagged my ear. We had a impromptu refresher lesson on hook safety as soon as I worked the barb free. :blink: Before I go fishing again, I think I'll have a couple of those made up and handy.


  9. Well, I can get some nice leathers there still for a comparable price (just not the veg tan so much), and it's nice to pick out leathers in person--for this, Tandy is my only option, there is nothing else that will deal with a small hobbyist within a 4 hour radius unless I wait until the sellers come in during CFD, at which point I'd pay premium prices for anything from a vendor there. And Tandy, even if the quality has gone down hill from past years, is still a good place to get kids interested in leathercrafting. The simple knife pouch, bracelet or belt made at summer camp or during a workshop is often a kid's prized possession or memento. It may be a Walmart of leather, but sometimes it's what gets people started.

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