Les No6

Same here Barbour's is inconsistent very knotty and has clumps of lint caught in the twist haven't bought it in years haven't come across Scotty before but can't be worse than Barbour's, I would chose Scotty

I'm a third generation harness maker in England my granddad dealt wholly with work gear this equipment spends its time either being worked hard on a very large horse or laying on the stable floor (wasn't the beautiful smell of leather you was greeted with when you entered his workshop most of his work being repairs in this type of work) this harness was hand stitched with hand spun linen thread (most called it hemp but its linen and was cheaper than ready spun thread) waxed with black wax and I've seen sets of harness around 100 YEARs old still in use no sign of thread rotting also seen items where the entire top and bottom of the stitches have completely worn away and it's still holding together as far as I'm concerned that's tried and tested so its linen for me but silk was supposed to be best never used silk don't know anyone that has. I do use braided polyester ready waxed on some jobs like sewing box keepers where their isn't enough room to use needles wouldn't use it to sew anything that will be exposed to sun light though I've seen it rot nylon in acouple of years, polyester is probably same, it do's hold up well to hand sewing. As to the subject of twist I asked my dad this many years ago and he said that thread twist only makes a difference to machines, before the advent of machine's twist wasn't an issue have known him to be wrong on occasion though. I'm right handed and use z twist same as I use on the machine a lot of hand stitching I do is continuing on from machine stitching so needs to match, on occasion that I make a thread I don't pay attention to the direction of twist and I've never noticed a problem I don't slant my stitches though that's an American thing we like ours neat and in line and English is regarded as best;), don't lock every stitch by passing the threads over each other I just do this at the ends or maybe it only shows up on long runs, Ill have to hand stitch a pair of traces and see.

Sorry I'm a third generation harness maker my methods haven't change since the advent of sewing machines, sewing machines use a lock stitch which will run (come undone) if not tied off i.e. stitch back over the thread to lock it off, hand sewing superior to machine will not run and results in a higher quality and much much stronger finish. In fact at one time to tie off on the machine was so unthinkable (let's not mention super glue) that sewing machines for this work didn't include reverse. I don't use round point, No6 needles don't come in that flavour and I'm a craftsman so the extra 5mins to tie off by hand isn't an issue quality is, ask any harness maker, saddler. Not all machines need a heavier needle when using canvas point on leather some don't mind. Fact is fact tying off by hand is best and sewing over existing stitches the needle is passing through a hole filled with material (thread) using a cutting point(leather point) will cut thread the smaller the needle for the gage of thread the tighter the thread is in the hole the more likely the thread will be cut don't know how I can explain any simpler just common sense to me.

Yes tainted only because tying off by hand is the correct practice, leather point needles have a cutting point stitching over existing stitches there's no hole to cut only a hole filled with fabric (thread) a sharp leather point will cut the thread hence the need for canvas point, timing will only reduce the incidence of cutting the thread clean through many times the thread will only be cut part the way through which will result in premature failure. I did come across this many years ago while visiting a factory that produced dog collars and leads they were replacing the aging Singer 45K's with reconditioned Adler 205's with pneumaticmotors and stitch counters auto reverse and foot lift, I had a play with one(pneumatic motor are truly amazing best I've ever come across) and noticed the it had a canvas point needle when I asked about this I was told that the company that supplied the machine said that canvas point must be used on reversing machine's, I knew the company that supplied the machine and questioned them on this fact on my next visit and was told what I say above (obvious really, the term CUTTING point a dead giveaway) and canvas point will sew leather perfectly well have tried it on many different machine's with no problems cant see the Torro being any different you might have to use a larger needle on some make's of machine. Also you shouldn't need to keep tightening anything you may have moved something out of position.

Hi you were very lucky to find the Adler for 100 euro’s and unbelievablylucky to get the No6, even for an old worn out one but yours is a later modelsome are over a hundred years old!, looking at the picture there are a coupleof small parts missing. The wire loop on the thread draw off lever which is essentialfor correct operation hence the words MUST NOT BE TAMPERED WITH in the manualand a small spring on the thread check plate, the wire loop can be easily madefrom a piece of wire and a suitable spring is easy enough to find. I’ll takesome pics of the parts on my machine so you know what parts I refer to. Also checkthe shuttle bobbins by rolling on a flat surface these need to be straight ifthey are bent you need new one’s which you can make or buy from Aaron MartinsCanada these are also a good source for needles (331LR). Follow the set upinstructions in the manual by the letter, oil and go. These machines are calledPearson’s after the original maker Pearson and Benion of Leeds, who merged withsome other companies to form British United Shoe Machinery Co.ltd the name onyour fly wheel. There should plenty of No6’s over there knew a company inWalsall England that shipped every No6 they could get hold of to Holland in the80’s. PS are you willing to sell the No6?

Sounds like he’s wired the starter windings the wrong wayaround you have to just swap these, if you are lucky there will be a wiringdiagram inside the cover somewhere. To identify different winding use a circuittester winding terminals give a circuit and separate winding’s give open circuit,just swap the starter winding’s around and leave the running winding’s alone. Ifyou swap both winding you keep the same direction.

Hi are you using leather point needles? You should be using canvas point if you tie of on the machine. Leather point needles have cutting points like a sharp edged spear and will cut your thread, you can sew leathe rperfectly well with canvas point. Leather point needles are for higher quality items where the thread is tied of by hand.