Les No6

An Adler 205 that’s been little used is worth a lot more and age is no measure, Juki 441 is the same class and same feed mechanism as the 205-370 with a longer arm and will go a little heavier. You’ll be hard pressed to find a second hand Juki 441 over here Adler’s are a lot more popular these are heavy machines for heavy weight materials with heavy thread and high tensions and will make a pigs ear of the lighter stuff. But if the 205 is genuine and little used it’s steal at that price so you can’t lose so find out yourself then sell it make yourself a few bob and buy something like an Adler 69 which will do what you are wanting to do. Be careful the Adler could be a Chinese knock off and worth about a third of the price and about an eighth as good if it is its worth about £1000 personally I won’t touch them they are no better than the rest of the garbage made in China.

Hi The Adler 205 is a very well built machine and an excellent choice for Saddlery you will find loads of Saddlers in Walsall using them usually 205-64s though, alas no good for the light stuff. As far as bags go you could make things like satchels or brief cases but something like a Adler 69 or Pfaff 335 would be better and you could do some Saddlery they will go up to about 7mm and bridle weight leather is 3.5 to 4mm and would do the light stuff. These would do lot more of what you want to do than the 205 and cost half the price I wouldn’t advise running them at full rated speed though on the heavier stuff.

You really don’t want to be using CO2 indoors it very dangerous it’s heavier than air so it sits in your lungs and you’ll suffocate, you can get compressed air tanks which is cheaper I think but still cost you more than a compressor.

Hi I get my linen from Abbey Saddlery (more out of necessity than choice as they have bought out most of my suppliers) and use Somac I stopped using Barbour’s many years ago because it had a lot of knots and lumps, it may have improve since but I haven’t used it in maybe 20 years. And my machine is a Pearson (BUSMC) No6 harness machine. Linen will work in all machines and its good practice to oil the top thread on heavy stitchers you can use any vegetable oil or baby oil.

Yes its cooked pine sap if you are collecting your own by tapping pine trees which I haven’t done you have to cook the sap for quite a long time to drive off all the water and volatiles, also if the land owner catches you hacking lumps out of his trees I don’t think he will be best pleasedJ. The easiest way is to collect the rosin from the trees which oozes out of wounds and dries out, once you get your eye in it easy to spot, you’ll need an old stout knife and a container I take two one for the nice clean rosin for the brown wax and one for the dirtier rosin for the black wax, this need less cooking it needs to be cooked until its hard and brittle when cool, just take a bit out and put it in cold water to check if its ready. You can buy it also which is nice and clean and isn’t expensive. And you want 50, 50 mix Matt describes the process perfectly be sure to use wet hands. Matt; Same process for the black wax equal amounts of pitch (same stuff they tar roofs and roads with its very cheap ask a roofer for a bit) and rosin the amount of oil depends on the ambient temperature when its very warm in summer you don’t need any in Winter the wax would be too hard and brittle, the problem with this is that wax mixed for winter is no good in summer just melts an vise versa, linseed oil is the oil I use but you can use any oil its not critical. If you use bees wax instead of oil use about 5% and the wax is good for all seasons

Hi H Brindley are not still in business the ploughs where new old stock my Father or Grandfather acquired them, sadly they are not with us any more so don’t know any more I found them in a box still packed in grease and paper. Here’s a link to J Adam. http://www.sheffieldknives.co.uk/acatalog/7-121.html We still have quite a large and buoyant Saddlery industry left here sadly most of everything else has gone apart from banking and services. Thanks for the links there is a lot of very interesting stuff on that site. Still haven’t had time to pop into Sheffield, the Wife and Kids are away on holiday next week so I’ll have plenty of free time then J

Matt’s right its bees wax and rosin, here some I made on the left is brown wax, bees wax and rosin, in the middle, harness makers black wax my own recipe, pitch, rosin and a bit of bees wax and on the right harness makers black wax traditional recipe, pitch, rosin and a bit of oil, winter mix. These are the best thread wax’s to use the purpose is to protect the thread and to glue the stitches in place.

I don't have the book you refer to, there still a few knife makers left in Sheffield, J Adams makes some leather knifes, shoe knives clip point and broad point and a French patern knife. I have a new old stock H Brindley blade in my plough and its very good it takes an acute edge and slow to dull, it came with a plough I had two still packed in grease and paper didn't like the ploughs though. As soon as I get a free day in the week I shall pop through to Sheffield, it's nice to see people collecting these old tools I collect old harness ornaments and don't have room for any thing else.

The 204 uses the 794-328(214*1) needle system sizes 160-230, in a range of needle points and you can use any machine thread, linen, polyestercoton, polyester, nylon and nylon mixes the choice is yours I prefer linen and polyester-cotton. And here is a link to the manuals; http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/downloads/index.html?action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F204-370/

Im sure they will see me these types are always very nice and eager to chat to anyone with an interest, time permitting of course. The Hale subject dos look a bit dubious Goe Barnsley tools have always been priced below J Dixons, also there was a mention of steel, the old tools and Knives where made with hot forged spring steel nothing special, its the hot forging thats the special bit and expensive these days.

Yes I was just thinking the same would be very interesting, I also have a thing about quality handles these days they are generally poor quality and poorly shaped.

I live just down the road from Sheffield (Barnsley ironically), Geo Barnsleys factory shut down some years ago the company just consists of an office these days so either they outsource the production or licence the name (as singer does). Personally I’ve always been a Dixons man.

Not sure what you mean is it that the foot doesn't hold the work piece down as you are sewing as the needle is coming back up while the foot tension is on full, or the foot is sticking in its up position as its walking. First loosen the foot tension right off and move the foot up and down this should be nice and free and no binding if this is so tighten the foot tension back up and use a larger needle or finer thread. If the foot is stiff, sticking or binding strip the foot bar completely out role it on a flat surface to see if its bent and check for any dents if its bent you'll need a new one you can try and straighten, if there is a dent rub down the edges of the dent give the bar a good clean check the bushes reassemble the foot bar should move freely.

Hi it’s a hole punch, it has guides for strap width and adjustment for hole spacing I see that the auction has ended $100 no bids which is peanuts for the hole punch alone I suggest that you contact the seller and see if they are still available if they were in the UK I would have already beaten you to it. Here is a link to a machine to do the same job http://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/cutting-punching-machine/model-r74-rotary-punching-machine/ they are fantastic machines if you punch a lot of holes.

Hi Highleads are Chinese copy’s they are made in the same factory’s just branded differently, for instance the Highlead GC2698 (PFAFF 335 clone) is the same machine as the Global 9335, the same machines carry many different brand names in the UK the main ones are Highlead Global and Wimsew. The main thing with the Chinese clones is that they need a good looking over and setting up as to after sales this will most probably be return to base so you need to take this into consideration when choosing where you buy. Clones are perfectly capable and will do the same as the originals but will wear out faster and break down more often, dependant on use, very light use in your case so a clone would most probably out last you. Don’t forget the extras needles bobbins thread etc. and haggle.

Hi I largely agree with the above replies my Grandfather had a Pearson #2 essentially the same machine I wouldn’t consider these as viable working machines and doesn’t compare to the much superior Pearson #6 (my machine). I would suggest you give the Adler 205 serious consideration; parts are readily available, gives a better stitch quality than the Landis and Adler’s are very well built. The Landis uses 331 LR needle.

Yes Somac, I must admit I haven’t purchased Barbour thread for a considerable number of years, it was very inconsistent in thickness had a large number of knots and lumps of lint in the twist in all weights of thread. Somac also performs much better in the sewing machines. I do have some very old small bobbins of white and red Barbour thread which is excellent quality made at a time when they earned their reputation. Hemp and linen are different but hemp sewing thread is no longer used (apart from some handmade shoe bottoms) Hemp is a name that stuck for thread that you spin yourself but its actually linen made from flax, at least on this side of the pond http://www.abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/CategoryID/202/Category2ID/109/Level/2/ProductID/68760/Default.aspx . Hemp a course thread was predominantly used for work gear finer linen thread for higher quality items and silk for the highest quality products. Industrial strains of hemp are of no use as a drug unlike marijuana Mexican slang for strains that do. Linen is very resistant to rot and can be considered rot proof considerably more than nylon thread that’s marketed as rot proof but degrades comparatively rapidly in sunlight and acidic environments i.e. veg tan leather. I mostly use harness makers black wax, a pitch and rosin mix.

Hi yes it’s a back stitch also known as a bridle stitch the side showing is the back side the front looks the same as a regular stitch. The holes are the same as with two needles i.e. //// don’t pull the thread tight every time you pull the needle through only when you complete a stitch. Ill sew a piece later and take some pictures showing the procedure step by step it’ll be easier to explain that way and Ill post it here later.

Here some of my hand stiching at 8SPI.

Hi Strudell I think you are doing well at that speed you will speed up a little in time there is no real short cuts just technique and practice, I do 20mins per foot at 8SPI but I’ve had over 30 years practice. I don’t advocate using a drill (can be useful repairing old tack where the leather is old and hard) it takes longer and produces a poorer weaker stitch. Yes hand stitching commands a premium, one tip I can give you is if you attach a couple of leather loops to you clamp you have a convenient place to put your pricker and a small pair of pliers.

Hi I’m not familiar with Tandy thread but it certainly shouldn’t break while sewing, it’s a common beginner’s mistake to pull stiches in to tight. Not a fan of Barbour thread I prefer Sewmac it’s more consistent. Bees wax and rosin makes a better wax it holds the fibres of the thread together and holds up to the rigour of hand sewing better than bees wax alone, it also glues the stiches in place and gives you more grip on the thread and needles. You want hard rosin (I use pine rosin) mix equal amounts of bees wax and rosin being careful not to overheat pour a little in cold water and squeeze it between your fingers if its brittle add more bees wax if too soft add more rosin when you have the right consistency pour the whole lot into a bucket of water gather together use wet hands when cool enough remove from the bucket and knead and pull the mixture until it floats in water. For black wax use pitch instead of bees wax if you live in a cold climate and have a cold workshop add a little oil to the mix. As to weight of thread linen is available in many weights, have you thought about making your own threads with hemp (actually linen) http://www.abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/CategoryID/202/Category2ID/109/catpageindex/1/Level/2/ProductID/68760/Default.aspx this may be more cost effective for you with a little more labour always handy to have around even if you go the pre spun route.

Yes baby oil is high grade paraffin oil, oil will stain some leathers the thread should be just damped with oil some machines have some form of wiper in the wax pot to remove excess oil, pots without these can have a sponge placed in the bottom and the thread picks up oil from the sponge. White spirit also known as turpentine substitute, mineral spirit, paint thinner, it’s a paraffin distillate (basically paraffin with the oils removed) paraffin can be used in its place however here in the UK paraffin is ridiculously priced and I object to paying more for paraffin than diesel out of the pump which is a higher grade fuel oil and subject to large road fuel duty!! (Rant over). The mixture of paraffin and liquid starch was probably paraffin a mixture popular among corner stitches in the UK was soap flakes soaked overnight then paraffin added; paraffin alone can also be used. I wouldn’t advise the use of mix’s containing solvents on manmade threads.

Hi Edvin I have a 45K wax pot laying around somewhere Ill fish it out and if you send me your address Ill pop it in the post for you. Waxed thread won’t work as to liquid wax and thread lube it is good practice to lubricate the thread on heavy machines light paraffin oil (readily available as baby oil) is an excellent clean thread lube, vegetable oil can also be used but do’s dry in time and needs cleaning, my personal favourite is linseed oil (thread varnish) there’s extra work involved with this the machine needs cleaning twice weekly if you are oiling the shuttle thread this has to be used the same day, and when you use the machine on a new day you need to pull the top thread through and remove the thread with dry oil. And finally liquid wax can be made by dissolving paraffin wax in white spirit with due care. UKfossil is right the thread take up is in the wrong position and most probably creating the problems you are having.

Hi chimera Single phase (domestic electrical supply) Clutch motors forsewing machines come in 2 pole and 4 pole high and low speed, the 4 pole hashalf the speed and twice the torque (shaft power=speed x torque), same withgearing you can trade speed for torque minus losses of course and you can gethigher gear ratios by using a counter shaft but at the expense of greaterlosses. Would a 1/2hp motor give you more control no, firstly your control inputis the clutch (torque converter) so your control depends on this component notthe motor, secondly, the motors are constant speed motors the torque orstrength as you see it is load dependant greater load greater the torque untilmaximum load at which point the motor stalls and torque falls to startingtorque (very little). Thirdly a 1/2 hp Chinese manufactured motor is more like a1/4hp motor from a quality manufacture like Brook Compton. As you can see youare not going to get more torque and may get a lower power motor. Clutch motorsare old simple technology efficient reliable, and dos everything a servo canwith a little skill, like everything, the main difference between clutch motorsis quality of manufacture, and quality cost but operates correctly last longer depreciatesless and much cheaper in the long run. Don’t worry about energy use when notusing the machine, as stated earlier torque is load dependant and the load onthe motor is just friction in the bearings heat losses are minimal as theresnot much current running through the windings so the motor draws little power(power=speedxtorque), they have high start up currents though so don’t turn offand on a lot. A servo motor or more accurately servo controlled motor isan electronically controlled motor using feedback the purpose is to replacelarge heavy expensive motors with cheapersmaller lighter alternatives, increase efficiency by carrying out torque conversions electronically, eliminating mechanicaltorque converters i.e. gears pulleys counter shafts and torque smoothing flywheels with their associated losses. The servo controller is the importantclever bit NOT the motor, there are many cheap imports that claim to be servomotors but they are not (lack of feedback controller) these can beeasily identified by the use of oversized motors and gearing and or countershafts these are merely dc motors supplied via a variable current regulator sincetorque of a dc motor is directly proportional to input current its nothing morethan an electronic clutch and will not perform any better than a mechanicalclutch but at reduced efficiency. See attached video note the smaller cheepmotor outperforming the large motor which has a gear box incorporated, (don’t listento what the guys saying hes selling something!) Guess which is a real servo. With the benefit ofa university education in engineering I find the claims made by sellers of theseChinese so called servos highly dubious! As to the maximum speed of your machine a google search shouldget you the manual and it will be in there you don’t want to go more than ¾ ofthat. The problem with your machine sounds like a tension problemthe twist in the thread is usually caused by the tension being too tight itpushes the twist farther up the thread until it forms a knot. Start with theshuttle tension pull the thread from the shuttle it should pull out easy and smoothif it tends to judder the problems the bobbin, the tension in the shuttleshould be quite light. The problem couldalso be due to you trying to sew material too heavy for your machine foot liftis no measure of how heavy the machine will sew, to check the maximum weight itcan handle turn the fly wheel until the needle reaches its lowest point look atthe thread groove on the needle the top of this groove to needle plate is the absolutemaximum thickness it will handle, also check the needle size it may be toosmall for the gage of thread . Its good practice to oil all moving parts on asewing machine and the thread is a moving part use a light mineral oil, (babyoil is high grade mineral oil) it also keeps your needle and shuttle welloiled. Also check for burs on the shuttle and needle plate. Nylon not nicethread, try linen or polyester cotton.

Hi Sandy my mistake I can see the parts I referred to in the second picture as to the little spring in the shuttle it's not essential, you could make one using the steel from an old tape measure, or you could buy one from Aaron Martins. A common mistake people make is set up the No6 dosnt have a top thread tension, tension is set by the shuttle, its important to read the setup instructions in the manual and follow to the letter for the machine to work correctly. I would strongly advise you not to run the machine with the needle setup you have in the picture especially with the motor you are likely to bust the machine and, or injure yourself machine needles are hard and brittle if caught up in the shuttle could cause a lot of damage. It's also not a good idea to run the machine on the motor until you are fully familiar with it they do require some skill to use, the No6 isn't well balanced at all and shouldn't be ran at high speed, sit at the machine unthread it and turn it by hand as fast as you can this is about as fast as it should be run, my No6 is run via a counter shaft this also gives higher torque. The No6 is a fantastic machine my personal favourite heavy stitcher, produces a very high quality strong stitch, very easy on the thread, equally adept at fine light work as it is with heavy no adjustment needed just change needle and rethread, sounds amazing too, a true craftsman's tool.