Leather Guru
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Posts posted by Leather Guru
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Hi Trox ! I think i Still have all that stuff from my old 345 . I'll have a look today and let you know .
Ralph
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Yes,it can be done real easy by lowering the needlebar,but you won't be able sew over 1/2" thick or your needlebar will hit the foot.
Bob
Hi Bob , Thanks for your quick answer . Actually I already changed when I asked the question BUT . I had to lower the needle bar too much so the hook would pass at the right moment . I suppose that the timing is not correct ? ? Which leads me to my next question . I suppose that the timing is adjusted at the base of the machine after removing the cover plate ? Is the timing adjusted with the bobbin case against the top stop or bottom stop on the arm which propels the shuttle ? Do you see what I mean ? I got some experience so you don't have to be too gentle . Also the needle should rise how many millimeters when the hook arrives ?
Thanks in advance for your help .
Ralph
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Is it possible to change from needle system 794 to 328 on my 441 clone ?
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This is the kind of work that U can earn money with . The chair is a project I designed and covered in leather . The bed head was made for a five star hotel in Suisse Which I have the good luck to have as a client !
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If I were me I'd get the Adler
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Hello Hellfirejack . . . Why not contribute 50 bucks to Lw .net instead of getting all your info free ?
Right on Sylvia ! I could sure use a chica like you doing all my computer work ! You have given some useful info like making those thumbnails bigger . Thanks
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Why not try , using a needle with a big eye , to hide Ur thread ends inside Ur work Well I'm not explaining clearly perhaps
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I think ur looking for a good contact glue like Pattex or something similar . Don't forget to try the glue on some scraps ! I'm sure U can find something in a DIY store that would be suitable
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44 views and no replies
Is it too basic a question to be bothered with? Have I not worded it to make it a clear question?
Maybe this'll help - Say I put a stitching groove down the edge and around the point of a belt - I then stitch all down the edge alllmost to the point but I know the next stitch will fall outside the groove - how to I shorten up the stitch when coming to the point so I can make the turn and keep "colouring inside the lines" so to speak ;0)
Brand new to the machine thing folks - hepp a nooby out ;0)
Good question ! Sew on a piece of scrap leather (after setting your machine to the desired stitch length) Take a compass and measure 4 stitches or less and make a point at the place you want to stop and a point 4 stitches farther and then again in your groove . When you arrive at the first point (8 stitches away from the end) you will see if you have to help your machine (holding back the work or pulling a little bit ) . By the time you arrive at the second point (4 stitches away from the end) you should be OK to arrive correctly at the end) . The smaller the stitch the easier. If your crossing a strap , adjust your stitch lenght to make it easy to cross with a certain # of points .
Claro ?
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Good morning ,
If you want a really good machine , get an adler 269-373 or a clone there of . Where as your 335 the feed dog doesn't rise up the 269 does making better traction and the bobbin is twice the size of your 335 .
And as Wiz said you can easily arrange all your machines to take the same needles but unfortunately not the feet .
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Hello everybody ---- I'm having a hard time understanding what you guys mean by servo motor and especially about changing the speed on the motor .
Aren't the speeds to be found in the position of your foot pedal ( the farther you push it the faster the speed ) ? And also , don't these motors have a synchroniser on the fly wheel that you can adjust for the needle positioning system . When I push on the pedal and immediately release it the needle goes in to the preferred down position .
When I push with my heel the needle goes to the up position and all the speeds are to be found in the foot pedal . That box you see in the photo is in fact a computer the you can program all sorts of different parameters .
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I just received and installed a drop down roller fabric guide for Cowboy 4500 from Bob Kovar. Thank you Bob for great advise and speedy shipment.
I am not sure i did it perfectly but it works great and it is surprisingly rigid.
I have attached it with 6mm bolts for which holes were drilled and tapped.
It is installed as low as possible so that I did not have to change the angle of the manual presser foot lift handle.
There are two modifications to existing parts however.
1. The ball handle of the manual presser foot lift is grinded by about 1/4" so it would not hit the roller guide mechanism.
2. Roller guide altitude limiting bolt is shortened and the nut that secures it is put on the other side of that back fixture. That too was done to avoid it being an obstacle.
Nice job man ,
I think Bob is gonna be selling a lot of guides . In my opinion these guides should be standard equipment on those machines !
You should now make yourself a straight guide ( without roller ) which will ride better on top of the leather as in your picture .
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Morning
Try http://www.magicsfea.it or abbeysaddlery.co.uk
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Hello man ,
I guess your talking about www. abbeysaddlery.uk ? Don't they still have those brass corners ? Try www.mmcolombo.it they have a lot of brass locks .
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Greetings everyone ,
All these knives are made from high speed steel saw blades . The smaller knives from HSS hacksaw blades ( NO bimetal as only the teeth are hardened ) . The hardness and toughness of this steel is hard to beat . Some of the blades are hollow ground and some flat ground . Some on one side and some on both sides . The hollow ground are more flexible at the tip , which is good for some work , and their easier to sharpen . Another advantage is when sharpening HSS it won't lose it's temper even when heated red.
The small knives I use to cut around patterns and they are beveled only on one side and as hacksaw blades are thin , they sharpen in a jiffy .
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Hello Don,
When you bought your laser did it come with the software on a disc , which you then downloaded into your computer and is there storage capacity in the machine itself ?
I suppose that one would have then to learn how to use the drawing program ? Would you recommend such a machine for the faint hearted ? Sounds like you are somewhat of a computer geek in addition to being a leather worker . Can you please describe in a little more detail your procedure the modus operendi ?
Thanks
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The belt looks nice, but I've never seen or noticed that little single stitch off the sides. Could you explain why you do this?
So far, I've been finishing of by hand because my upholstery machine is just not made for the thickness of leather that I'm asking it to sew. I have a Cobra on order now and will see how it does with using the reverse. If I still need to finish by hand to get the best finish, then that's definitely what I'll do.
I'm glad to see differing opinions on here. I think the conversation is a healthy way for us noobies to learn and try to see what works for us. I'm looking forward to getting my new machine.
Hi Bobby,
That point off to the side is called in French , " pointe à cheval " and translates to stitch on horseback . It is often used in bridle making and things horsey . Try sewing a buckle with a strap using that stitch and you'll see why it adds to the strengh (and of course it's pretty ). And bravo for a noobie to have noticed !
I'll tell you I got plenty machines and even though I'm 64, and lazy, I'll always finish by hand and do lots of small things also by hand . Never burn your threads or use super glue
this is only for people who ain't seen the difference . Try to find ingenious was to hide the thread ends . I did and so can you .
Write me any time and I'll try to find some more pics for you .
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Actually your are going to have to sharpen that edger you now use too at some point. The techniques should be pretty much the same. As far as ordering a #2 and #3 and having to machine them to that size, it should have nothing to do with the size. The size designates the width, and every maker is a bit different with the same number sizes. One contemporary and a couple of old line makers are way different on their sizing number compared to others. Your #2 shoud cut a narrower edge than the #3. They should both be sharpened exactly the same way. Properly sharpened those Dixon tools will outlive your other one by years or generations. If you don't want to got through it, I'll buy them both as is without sharpening.
On a side note, what is the Ebay seller you bought them from telling you? Are they reselling new tools with an Ebay store without adding any value over ordering from Abbey or Dixon straight up or was this a one time deal for them?
Hello Bruce,
I've got at least 15 different edge shaves and plenty of dixon's I had to sharpen every one .
I've seen some edge shaves on the Osborne web site and I wrote to them but received no answer . Do they still make those types that have holes (bisonett ) and who stocks these tools for sale ?
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Hello Boys,
I've been sewing for 30 years on all types of machines and I must agree with LES NO6 . If you want your project to be top quality and beautiful & strong , bite the bullet and back sew by hand . After sewing try to hide the threads to the inside of the project or between the seams .
Or , try back stitching manually (not using reverse ) and look to where you place the needle in the previously stitched holes . This only takes slightly more time and you will never mess up your project . So you ask why have reverse ?
The photo is of some work sewn by machine and finished by hand . When you get used to this finishing it goes quick and you won't have to be ashamed by doing shoddy work or undoing your stitching .
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Do you have more photos of the roller guide on your machine? I like the style that swings down a whole lot more than the ones that bolt on next to the needle plate, but I've never seen one on a 441 before.
Cheers.
Hello Man,
Sorry for the delay in sending the pics but my PC was funky after I tried to install software for a printer and I'm just now back up . When I ordered the machine I asked the guy to make sure it had a swing up guide and alas it was so delivered . I'll be doing a blog soon with Luke Hattley about what I think are some definet musts for a sewing guide.
Good luck in finding one .
By the way I also ordered 3 extra sets of what you guys call blanket feet and made my own left and right and double. I also ground off the teeth on the big one . Now two years later I see them feet can be ordered but I don't like a small foot with a hole in it , can't see where the needle is going to hit
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I've read quite a few threads on Adler 205-370s and figure they're the ne plus ultra of machines in their class, but I'm curious about the clones. Most manufacturers seem to have gone with 441 clones except for Cowboy/Hightex who make both 441 and 205 clones. is there a particular reason for that?
The only difference I can spot on spec is that the 441s will do a couple more mm than the 205s and the 205s are a bit more finnicky to time and set the hook than the 441s. Either will probably be an excellent machine for what I want to do but I'd be interested in whether there's much in the way of practical difference between a 441 clone and a 205 clone. For me, the extra couple of mm of capacity isn't a major thing since I have a No.6 for the really big stuff.
Thanks.
Good morning,
I bought a techsew 5100 some years ago and it's supposed to be a copy of a 441. The 205 is similar in function as the 441 . You know triple entrainment . But the main difference is the lenght of the arm. You could drive a truck through the opening. Anyway all those machines are made in china these days. I changed the type of needle on mine (put in a shorter one cause the shorter the needle the less flexible and better regularity in the stitch lenght when using finer needles)
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Hello man ,Welcome aboard !
Do you have your own laser ? I've done some work with lasers and water jet cutters but I still like a good sharp knive for cutting . I don't like the burned edges but it's fun.
Also , hello to brother Luke. I'll be writing to you soon.
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Hello boys,
I'm sorry that Blanchard is not making the same quality as before. I bought mine 35 years ago and I saw in their shop in Paris a collection of tools they made for the Paris exhibition circa 1900 . They were to die for. But , I see that osborne are not really the same stuff as before either. It's amazing that so many people are into leatherwork in the states. Nobody wants to touch it here.
By the way Bruce , I saw on your website some really beautiful draw knives .If you could send me your bank details I can send the money by transfer . If your ok with that I'll pick one out from your site. Do you have a model with the hand hold offset ?
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Looking for a good solid Brass Roller Buckle.
Try in England www. abbeysaddlery.uk . They also sell dixon tools. You can also find brass belt buckles of all sizes and good for you the sizes are in inches
Breathtaking Prices On Pfaff Parts And Accessories.
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Hi again Trox , I got a feed dog and the swing away guide to mount the binder . & of course you can have them if U want Send me the part numbers from the other stuff & I'll ask Callot for clone prices I also got a binder and it's for leather . It's included in the price 000,00€
Let me know .
Ralph