cleanview

he texted me yesterday that this machine is sold

thank you

dwight on another thread you mentioned waiting 24 hrs. Is that time frame applicable here as well and do you wait 24 hrs in between coats? the other thread was in reference to stitching white thread so might be different.

I pretty much do the application like dwight described. I have always buffed with an attachment on a drill and thought it had done a good job. I will be sealing one tonight and will buff to high heaven and see how she goes. thanks

I did a little sig p229 (?) and that was the first time i really thought about it. Thanks so much

Should I be able to soak a white t shirt from sweating and see no mark from holster

The holster wont typically rub off on my white under shirts but I sweat profusely and that changes things. Should my acrylic resolene stop this? I mix it 50/50 with water with two coats. Thanks

I have just noticed on a lot of the kydex holsters that the channel is relatively short and with the sight channel going all the way up, that is the dowel rod being in there when forming, there is only about 1/8 - 3/16 inc to catch. The way you describe it in relation to the trigger guard really makes sense. Thank you

I I have been using a dowel rod with a grove for the sight itself and the channel the sight would go through on the way out. But I am really curious if the channel should be the entire distance to the mouth of the holster? Sometimes it seems like that sight channel affect the fit, as in the leather not touching the slide.

I am still learning. When I first started certain aspects fascinated me. Now one of the most impressive parts of the process is the over all flow of the finished project. These posted are so awesome! People look at me funny when I show them a paper pattern and claim that the pattern is the hardest part.

Very good comments, thank you. The biggest measurement is 5/16 between the two stitch lines. Every thing I have read says measure the way I described above to get pattern. Except one youtube video where the guy says half the trigger guard on that side, which makes sense. I have had some holsters so tight that I had to force the gun in with out any thing (dowel rod) for a sight channel. stretch on it some and then start over again with dowel rod over sight. Thinking this is never going to work! and makes the best fitting holster when done.

Thanks for the comments. Very helpful. You might notice the added in stitch line which seems to be a common occurrence with me. I take the width of the slide divided in half plus the thickness of the leather. It almost never comes out correct. Is my formula wrong? Or some other common mistake I am making? I make changes to the pattern afterwards but should be able to get it correct the first time.

Is it a safe assumption that to much distance between the edge of the gun and the belt loop can cause holster to lean out? (avenge and pancake) Out of habit I don't tighten my belt very much (hurts the old tummy). A recent avenger I made my self seems to ride very nice and I had made minimal the distance between stitch line and belt loop. Just curious if my assumption is correct. Thanks

thanks for the replies. Yes I have my measurements down pretty good. The pattern had been used before and then i gave some more wiggle room when I transferred the stitch line (1/8 in) because it was a thicker leather. Seems like I make major advancement in some areas and then there are always areas that need work. Over all it is getting better with each one. Thanks again. Any critiques on the holster itself?

I had thought about doing the stitching after molding, actually I had one that was to loose so I added a stitch line after molding. My question is about the drawbacks. I assume it would have to be cemented and set up to form and then I wonder if I would wid up with cement inside the holster and would the cement hold to a good fit without coming apart?

Well, I have not posted in a while but have been reading regular. Since my last post, I started stitching with an awl and the difference is amazing. working on several different areas and learning (the hard way) with each holster. Started using a round knife as well and that takes some getting used to as well. Any pointers or opinions are welcome. Something I have experience twice now is the gun not seeming to fit inside the holster when I go to forming it. I actually hurt my back getting one in and thought this will never work. Seems to be the ones that seem to tight wind up being better once formed. but it sure can be frustrating thinking that it wont fit. I dont know which is better, to loose just does not seem to have good end results. Well and pointers are welcome and thanks

Thank you very much. I worked on sharpening it today and stitched a little project and well it turned out good but there certainly is some learning to go yet. The stitch line on the front was straight but the line on the back had a few wobbles. Takes some practice to keep it straight i guess. I also notice the cement from gluing the two pieces together gets on the awl and becomes problematic. I really see the value of keeping it sharp and I polished it when experimenting and that makes a big difference as well. Thanks again

So I mostly make holsters. Each one I try to refine a process since starting this last year. I am finally around to stitching with an awl. I have been drilling holes and then pulling each pass with a pair of pliers because I thought it looked much easier and faster than with an awl. Just did my first few stches with an awl and it amazing how much easier it is and I am sure it is probably faster as well not to mention how much better it looks. A few questions... 1. I am assuming that the hole closes up as opposed to the hole from a drill (the drill removes soem leather)? 2. Most of the threads will not fit through my needles that are suppposed to be more for this purpose. I ordered from springfield leather the needle and thread below. This thread fits but things I have from past orders dont fit well at all. Is there a better defining quality to the best thread for stitching with an awl. Needle,Harness,"0"Sm,5pk Round and blunt for harness repair, sewing up knife sheaths and other heavy duty craft projects that have pre-punched holes and where you need a needle that won’t break very easily. Our harness needles are original John James Brand. Item #130119705. Thread,Wax,Linen,Brown,50yd Excellent thread for hand sewing. This and the Nyltex are the best buys for the money! 50 yds. Item #45-120702. 3. I saw a video of a guy putting a cork on the receiving end of the awl and that seems like a good idea but any comments would be appreciated. 4. And i read some where that the awl comes new being in need of sharpening? It seems to work great but maybey it is supposed to be even better. Does soem one have a good link on how to sharpen an awl? Just a few questions to this new step in my refining process I am going through, I sure appreciate any comments.

I will try that. I am just about to give up and redo it and learn to be more cautious with the cement from here on out. I am sure it is just one of the newbie mistakes I have made and sadly it will not be the last

thanks for the comment. Loose as a goose just means compared to a conceal carry rig. It will not fall out when running moving. Maybey I should have worded that differnetly. The gun fit in perfectly, then I put a thin peice of kydex on each side of the slide and they gave me what I was lookng for. The next one will be lowered as I mentioned.

1911 avenger Pretty happy with this one. The tighter stitch line was added after the beginning of the forming. That line is the hardest part of the pattern for me. I adjusted my pattern and plan on making another one of these. I want to bring the gun down on the belt and no cant. A work holster for my bersa bp9cc. Yes it has a serious cant. It is made for the purpose work wear. I wear a work belt and this is an experiment to accomodate carry while working. Over all I was pleased with this one. I put the extra rivet thinking that would be an extra stress point. I put the hole thinking of a smaller rivet, so the rivet hangs over and probably was not even needed, One learning note about forming. That sucker was TIGHT to get in there! But the fit is the best I have had for retention (the avenger above is loose as a goose for action shooting sports) . Also learned alot when boning. I forgot to do any boning for about 2 hours on the avenger above and it woked alot better. Very interesting figuring that process out. It seems like carving as simply forming it to the metal Well my friends all say wow! But they dont usually know what to look for. This group does. So any pointers are welcome.

I just finished making a single mag holger and when I glued the edges under the seems I got some on the inside of the holder. Other than that, it turned out well. I thought it might just dry and the problem would go away. I guess that aint going to fix itself. Any suggestion as to how to resolve the contact cement problem.

I sure like that

Thought about putting a few of my projects that i am redoing or modifing on ebay to re-invest in leather. Thought about putting a few of my projects that i am redoing or modifing on ebay to re-invest in leather.

Thamks again. That is a good explanation of what is. Needed. The first one was a little to tight which resulted in the trigger not being covered as much as desired and then. Natualy. I over compensated and made it a little to loose. I do understand what you are saying in regards to the impotance of the stitch line placement. The more i look at the picture the more i see the ear should be a little smaller as well (even though it is much aller than the first one. Believe it or not i am thinking about making a third one just to try to get it just right. After all pracice makes perfect. Thanks again Brent