cleanview

A very good learning experience from all the posts here. I really apprecite it. I just sewed the below pic which in all honesty is the first one that I have been happy with. Let me know if you see any thing wrong in it?

Ok. out of this embarrassing learning mistake .........I learned more of what happens when the presser foot is raised. learning as we go but sometimes embarrassing myself in the process yes wizcraft is does. Thanks again

OOPS....don't forget that I am knew to machines. I just realized the presser foot was raised and that releases the pressure on the disc. oober mistake on my part.

Here are some more pics......sorry I wont have time to work on this and make replies till this evening. Thanks

Appreciate it. I will work on this this afternoon. This is only one of a few things I have figures out were set up WRONG when I ordered it. Major frustrations that I should not have had to figure out.

upon investigating this morning I find that part no. 1 has zero affect on the thread. in these pictures is there a reason visible? I can tighten all the way down and there is no resistance at all. I dont think this is normal but I dont know. The only things I have "played with are the nuts to adjustments, nothing else.

Finally, I get it. As a teacher, I have seen no greater joy than the look on a face when I know that they got it for the first time. You can't see that look on my face, from this forum interaction, but it's there. Thank you for the time it took to explain that

Lots of testing and I think I know but am sure could be enlightened as well. I assume the following parts do this. 1. Adjusts the tension on the top thread 2. Affects the knot and when it is. This one is confusing. I read and hear different things about what i does. 3. Bobbin thread tension. I had to pull some stitches the other day and observed the bobbin thread had actually made some cuts in the leather. Is this normal? or, does it automatically mean that bobbin thread is to tight? I am making a lot of progress with the machine, but to me it just makes things easier if I understand the machine better. And my understanding started at 0.

3 things. 1. it does not seem to be "kinky" or "twisty" thread. 2. I may try to extend the bar. 3. I know get the juki illustration. Is is common as the take up lever moves up and down for there to be enough slack so that the thread can reach the bar.

I have been taking profits back into supplies and there are no ends to blue gun needs. So I am getting some off the more popular. Two that makes one is better than one that makes one.

I will try and see if the thread is twisty or kinky as described Thanks for your comments

The distance measure 1/4 inch....... I am really unclear as to what that particular nut adjusts. I have been told one thing and read another. From tests, it seem to affect the knot position, but still confused about that. I have done LOTS of adjusting to observe the changes that it makes in the sewing. the diagram does not ,make any sense to me since my machine is the only one I have seen

yes on the 1 1/2 times and I do make sure the take up arm is at top

It has done this since the day I got it. But I can not figure it out for the life of me. As the "arm" comes down, there is slack in the line and it will wrap around the bar after the disk (as pictured). It will usually just act like tension is super tight and I look up and the thread will have wrapped around as pictured here. BUT When I use the little 138 thread it has started getting double wrapped around the pigtail between the bar and the arm and that actually locks it down (one time the needle got pulled out or it breaks thread) Obviously. I am new with a sewing machine, trying to refrain from typing "thingy" but hope I have described the problem. It just seems like that slack should not be there when the arm is on the down swing......but I just don't know. Oh! this picture was staged and not one of the actual mishaps. I guess that could be important.

very nice thanks

Fixing to order two blue guns ..... one of which is the xds Looking and a little research and it seems like the xds 9 is what I would wand and then I could mold a 45 off of it. Yes or no Thanks

thanks.....way to much time on this one......its like all of them, I know How to get the 2nd one much better.

Well here it is ....first one never turns out as good as I know the second one will. Was not really happy with the way the velcro turned out and really stupid mistake was hand stitching in the velcro hastily thinking thet would be covered.

That velcro might be the ticket

I see alot of metal eyelets with the lace running through it. Seems like that would scratch the wood. I wonder if that 3 ounce leather would hold up to lace through just holes?

thanks Dwight and I will post pics.....and the tip in skiving the adges is priceless as well

Well....that that is a wide spectrum of answerer..................I swear the more I learn the more I realize that I don't know. I think I have my answer and plan of approach and now a few more curiosities to ponder. Thanks

Having molded some 3 ounce leather per the helpful instructions you gave me........what thickness of leather would you recommend for the panels? The sling is 8-9 ounce but that looks a little thick to sew on as panels? Was thinking 6-7 ounce?

I have mostly done holsters and am thinking slings might be different but I just don't know. Seems to me that holsters are rigid but slings, not so much. Prep - should there be any oiling and if so at what stage - very beginning or after stamping? Finish - Until now I have only finished with acrylic resolene 50/50. I have other finish products but am at a loss as to when to use them. I have leather balm with atom wax, and carnuba cream but have never used them. Of course I can get other products but until now Resolene has been the best for holsters. As always thanks for your time and effort