cleanview

I talked to the customer and he decided to do a sewn fold over instead. He just wanted a "holster like the pic" without seeing the back. I drew it out last night and cut leather. and a quick google of hunter holster brings it right up.......google works best if one knows the right word. Thanks

Wish my 2nd one looked that good. Wondering if the mag release button is covered? It is best if it is exposed. I like the way the belt tunnel is done for the cross draw aspect

If i Line a holster there are portions that are just glued. One time I ruined a holster while building it and then tried to pull it apart just to see, and the leather ripped before the cement. those portions have not been stitched since. I just build it as if it was one piece of leather.

very good thanks for the info......I think I will ask which way he wants me to go with it and let him decide. JLS ....thank you for the patterns you have provided.....I recently used the mag carrier and really like it.

Then I assume the flap is not sewn on like most and "free floating" ? and then the hole contraption is fed through the belt and then the bottom snap "snapped" to hold it on?

A customer asked me to make a holster like the one in the pic. The back has some mystery. I would think it could have a "flap" or sewn on "tunnel" for the connecting point for the belt. BUT the real question is what the lower snap is for?? Wondering If anyone has seen or made one of these and has some insight.

Very nice in deed. I am getting a few requests for shoulder rigs and have decline so far. They just seem intimidating to me. I have told some that this winter I will have time to figure on it.

Thanks for the pic....it does give a good example. I would think that the double stitch is more cosmetic, yet it would give added strength as well......seems to me the cosmetic is more my people ask for it.

The looking at the back is exactly what I wanted to see (no pun intended). Makes sense. Thanks I sat and studied the two stitch lines and seems like you would have to over travel the first one to lock it and then sew across the lines? Was not sure if that was normal? Thanks again

Me and the machine (cowboy 3200) are finally getting along. First..... I was doing my first double stitched holster and was wondering how you do it? I started and stopped for each separate line, but was wondering if there was a way to do it continuously? Second..... How do you know when the needle needs changing? I have changed it during trouble shooting problems, but have not the foggiest as to how to tell if it is due for changing. Thanks

I just sanded, beveled, dyed, burnished. It felt a little different when I beveled, could be I was a little "skiddish" and not taken enough off. Edges are dyed the same as the belt loop on the back.

A day lat but here are the pics

The other day I bought an embossed leather side. Looks like caiman. Thought it would be good for overlays. Making one for a gun of mine to experience it. Will post pics this evening. Wondering about thought on using this stuff. My own observation is that it does bevel pretty well and take a burnish as well. But I did notice that when I shoved the dowel in for the sight channel that it cracked a little. That made me think that it might not form or bone very well. I ASSUME that it is sealed like any other leather?? Put some resolene on a small scrap and it SEEMS to be ok but not sure. I have looked at and called a poor mans gator, but wondered if it was anything others on here used or had good or bad to say about it??

I bone in by hand as well

Lobo and JLS I have only been in "business" a few months. I made some changes just from what both of you said. and you need to know that what you took time to write is relly appreciated.

Mine have been 40-50 I readily make known that I will charge more in the future. blog entry with my explaining my pricing http://bambamholsters.blogspot.com/2015/01/price-points-whats-on-bench.html

I consider myself new as well.....so listen to others over me. A quick look at the website.......biggest thing.....no prices.....me personally, I always leave when no prices are visible. It leaves me with the impression that a strong salesman awaits a contact.......just my opinion

but, to be clear........is it a correct statement, that anything other that the acrylic has to be maintained?

On this note......How does tan kote compare to the acrylic resolene as far as wearing off.

very nice

I wondered about that.. I am relatively new and am surprised that as much as they cost they are not exact. I am assuming you blue tape them until a micromiter says they are the same? Does it stay on, or do you have to replace it after a while?

I recently made two holsters for gen 4 guns to only have them to be too tight I measure my blue guns and they measure differently than the actual gen 4 (gen 3 blue gun) Every thing I read says that they are the exact same...... Am I missing something or are they not different enough whe it comes to molding holsters?

I have checked that number fo times I loop the tensioner. I Did just change a needle......but really unclear as to how often to change one......I just watch them to see if they have any changes and change it when in doubt thanks

glock pancake pattern. I emailed you a pic of one I did from it. As I have experimented with different threads, I have seen that there is a BIG difference in some them. Thanks for the reply

I have had 23 and 24 and being tight and thread breaking ......... sometimes use 24 but just fear threads breaking ....what a head ache that is ....always a long belt or something I have occasionally had the thread get caught on a lever from hanging too loose... hanging up before the first place you thread it......usually feel the machine "pulling" and look up and the thread is hung up ......is that the scenario you described? Love your pattern by the way....using it for a LEO as we speak