colbyj

Leatherrookie, I totally agree. I stay a mile away from black dye! I hate it, so I stick to dark brown and chocolate.

Very nice work! You can never go wrong with clean,simple patterns. Its your attention to detail that makes all the difference. Good job!

Bob- I definitely understand what youre saying. I think what I am trying to say is that everything is remaining constant on my end. Same casing process, same tools, same everything. So my question to everyone, was if they changed there casing process or anything like that with the W&C. I know the W&C is a good product, so by no means am I trying to say the leather isn't good leather. I was just wanting some more experienced opinions about the leather. On another note, since I am primarily making small products like belts and wallets, what cuts would be best for my needs? I am thinking double shoulders would be the best way to go. Colby

Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input from everyone. Except the last comment. If you dont have any advice, why say anything?

Brent, I am using the carving/tooling leather with oak color. The majority of my work is on the lighter side, like belts, wallets, etc. So I am using the 8/10 oz range typically. I think I am going to go back to order the belt bend/double shoulders from Springfield. Their is hardly any waste and it tools great. I just wanted to try out the W&C because I heard good things about it.

Thanks guys, Im having trouble with my swivel knife gliding through the leather. Sounds like I just need to get the casing right. But I have tried every different dampness! Im confused because the leather takes the beveler great. Anybody else have this problem with WC? Colby

Hello Everyone, I just got my first sides of WC today and it seems like there is something different about the casing process than the HO. I cant seem to get the WC leather cased right to carve and tool. Am I missing something? Does anyone else have any experience when switching from HO to WC? Thanks so much in advance. Colby

Can someone please tell me what they use to buckstitch..... what type of needle, punch, etc. I'm wanting to buckstitch belts so Im just wanting to know where to get these things as well. Thanks so much for the help in advance colby

Thanks so much Bob. I resolved my last problem. Im having problems with the tension on it now. The top stitch looks great, however the bottom stitch goes from looking like a bird nest to decent sometimes. Ive been playing with the tension on the top string and I havent made any progress. Does anybody have any experience with adlers that could point me in the right direction? Thanks, Colby

Im not really threading the bobbin, but trying to get the bobbin thread to come up with the needle

Im having a problem with a machine I just bought. Its an adler 69-372. Im trying to thread the bobbin. I have the bobbin in the case and when I bring the needle down to pick up the bobbin thread its hitting the piece that the bobbin case sits in, so the needle cant go all the way down. I think I am just overlooking something because it worked fine at the place where I got it. Does anybody know what I am doing wrong. Thanks so much in advance.

Hey clay, I live close to Temple. Do you know any body in the area that would sew some belts that Ive made? Id definitely pay. Thanks Colby

Hey, is the machine still for sale?

Hey, is the machine still for sale?

Terry, Ive heard good things about the quik slick. Im eventually going to order some when i run out of gum trag. Im using metallic leather for the background of my belts, so its a filigree. What do you use for punching the background areas out of the belt?

Yes sir, i think it is. Almost every belt I make now is either dark brown or black with the tooling antiqued! Almost every belt I have made lately has a metallic background. I think the contrast of colors looks really sharp.

Terry, We are on the same page as far as what the buffing is for. What we are talking about doing is dyeing everything EXCEPT the flowers and vines. So basically you have a two tone apperance. I was asking how everyone buffs there dye without getting it on the flowers and vines. Bruce puts a resist on his flower work before buffing so that it will be easier to remove any smudging from the dye on the flowers. Hope this helps! Thanks for the replies! Colby

Thanks for the replies! Bruce, you're right. I was thinking of doing the resist on tooled areas first! So thank you for confirming that!

Hey Guys, I'm trying to accomplish that two tone look on my belts. For instance, the background and edges on my belt are to be black or dark brown while the tooled areas will just be antiqued. Is it difficult to buff your dye without getting the dye on the tooled area? Should I lacquer my tooled area before buffing the dyed areas? What would your process be for this type of belt? Thanks in advance for the help! Colby "Around here we say Merry Christmas, not Happy Holidays."