srbonner

That is really good looking strap. I like the way you did your oak leaves and basketstamp. If you don't mind me asking, whose basketstamp are you using and what did you use for a background tool. Thanks.

Thanks guys. Just didnt want to get it done and say oops. I just knew the big stamp and border were gonna look real cluttered. Thanks again for the help.

The project I'm working on has some large panels that I used a x510 with a d439 for the border. I have another part that has some small corner pieces that I want to stamp also. The larger basket stamp and border seem like they are gonna be to big for the small area. Design wise, will it be OK to use a smaller basket and border instead of the larger ones? Just didn't know if it is OK to mix sizes. Thank you.

No unfortunalty I'm not Jr. Bonner's dad, but I have watched that movie hundreds of times. Used to pretend I was Jr. When I startet rodeoing. But to your belt, I think it looks awesome. To me your tooling looks very professional. I would wear it.

My daughter wanted a portfolio of her very own. I tried to inlay some gator for the first time. Still got some improving to do, but it got me a hug and a "I Love You", which is better than money!!

OK with help from the good folks here, I have found where to buy them, but now I would like to know where I could find instructions or a tutorial on how to get started using one. Thanks for your help.

Could someone tell me where I can buy a tri-weave stamp. Thank you very much-

I know your pain. I live out in western Oklahoma and would love to find a guild or some classes close by too attend. Cant find any within driving distance so for now its just videos, books and practice pieces. I have tried to copy some of the stuff in Bob Parks Gallery but all it shows me is that I have a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong way to go.

OK guys and gals, I need some more advice. I am making a small portfolio for my daughter. On the back I have cut a small cross (about 4"x5"). What is the best method for finishing the edges in the tight places. I'm gonna get two for one. I got my BK Push Beader in the mail and I was so excited to use it. I thought I had it figured out, but apparently not. I can't seem to get the round over I'm looking for. I think maybe I'm using it on too light of leather (about 4 oz.). Any advice would be appreciated.

I borrowed this pic from Double U's gallery because it showes the detail that I would like to figure out how to do. Its probably something really easy and simple but I still new at this and just trying to incorporate new things. There is a bead around the binder and on the scrolls that looks like it about 1/4" wide. I would like to learn how to round over the edges of that bead. I understand and have figured out everything about it bout how to round it off and take away the sharp edges. Anybody have any advice? Ok I forgot the one other thing about this detail i would like to learn to do is dyeing the bead a different color. Is this done by resisting everything but the bead then dyeing? Thank you

This is project number two and three. I know there are issues that I need to fix and improve on. Just gonna keep trying and practicing.

Where can a guy go to find patterns to make a hand bag(briefcase) or attache case other than the ones offered in the Tandy book? Thank you.

Ok I have checked out Barry King's website. I want to order his beader blade like yall advise on this thread, but would you explain the difference between the beader blade and the border blade. I know most of you will think Im stupid for not knowing but I dont so Im gonna ask.

I have made a couple of large portfolio covers for some friends as gifts. Now i have some people that want to order some. Im having a hard time figuring out what to charge for them. I have seen them on the internet somewhere between $65 - $125. My work is not top end stuff yet so I dont know what something like that should be worth. Any advice would really help.

Electrathon that is exactly what Im looking for. Bruce ...thats kind of what I thought. Thanks guys for the help!!

I need some ideas. Im working on a portfolio and on the back side I plan on tooling a cross in the center. What I need help with is incorporating the cross with the basketweave. Could a guy bevel the edges of the cross and the use a backgrounder to fade into the basketweave. Thanks for the help.

I took all the advice i gotnfrom yall on finishing leather. Im trying different finishes on some scrap pieces so I can get it down before I finish my project. When Im using olive oil I cant seem to get much color, even after three coats. What do I need to do different. Does it matter that Im using extra virgin olive oil? Thats what my wife had in the cabinet!!!!!!! Thanks again.

Ok I am 2 for 2 on getting the help and advice i need so Im gonna throw out another one. Im am working on a large tooling. The person is wanting a cross in a piece of leather. They gave me a pic of and example they wanted. Basically it is a large cross about 16"x20" and looks as if it has just been tooled with a backgrounder. The original is not a large as the 16"x20" that they are wanting. My question to all you professionals is what is the best way to background a large area? Do I need to just take off and do it with a regular backgrounder or is there another method. Thank you.

Ok heres another question froma new guy. I have cut some 91/2" x 121/2" pieces out of some 7-8 oz. double shoulder. The pieces are turning up on the corners. What can I do to make these pieces stay flat. Especially while tooling. Thank you for your advice.

Thank you all for your advice. I now know what im doing wrong. @ particle ----- that pic of your middle holster is the exact colors im wanting.

Im am really new to leather work and am already tired of messing up projects with poor finishes. I could use any advice or a list of steps that could make my finishing better. I mainly build bible covers, portfolios, cases, and items like that. I want to get like a light saddle tan color. I dont want anything too brown or dark. I bought some of the antiquing from Tandy but it always seems to end up too dark even after applying two coats of their sheen for a resist. Any advice you care to offer would be welcomed. You can even laugh if you want to cause i probably deserve it. Thank You.