BHPshooter

I like to have some leather wrap around the muzzle, so that probably won't work... but (and correct me if I'm wrong) isn't there a difference in the length of the frame dust cover between the 5" and the Commander, anyway? EDIT: Sorry, Dwight, I didn't see your post. I suppose modifying a mold is an option, if all else fails.

I am trying to find a mold for a 4" 1911. I can find a Colt Commander mold, but it's a 4-1/4" barrel, not a 4". Can anybody help?

Hybrids have never been my personal taste, but wow -- those are the best-looking hybrid holsters I've ever laid eyes upon.

From what I've read, weight of leather seems to vary depending on use and preferences of the builder. For the IWB holster, 6-7 seems about right. I can see myself trying 7-8 or 8-9 for OWB holsters, though. I'm not at all unhappy with 6-7 for OWBs, but I'm going to be experimenting in the days ahead. I do use a press for the initial forming, but it really seems to do little for the detail that shows on the exterior of the holster. Rather, it seems that this part really seems to form the inside of the holster to the lines of the gun. It's a 12 ton shop press from Harbor Freight. I put the mold (or the actual gun) in the holster, then squeeze it between two 12"x12"x1" sheets of 40 durometer rubber. I don't sqeeze the life out of it, just moderate pressure. Only some of the basic details of the gun will show through. After that, I make sure my hands are clean, and then I begin to use finger pressure to mold the general details. This is what really helps me find the lines of the gun. Then I start using the molding tools. I've found that the tools I use most are the handle of my leather edger (sanded very smooth), my Tandy wooden edge slicker (also with ends sanded smooth), and a bone folder/creaser that I use for smoothing places like slide flats and for making the actual boning lines. Also, casing leather properly beforehand really makes a difference -- and I mention this because it took me a long time to really get it. When you get the leather wet to insert the mold, it takes some time before the leather will really hold the details. I've seen lots of descriptions on here about recognizing when the leather is ready, but for me, it's this: When leather is really wet, it seems to take on the look (to my mind) of that gray/brown clay from Ceramics class. I usually let it sit for a while until the leather takes on more of a golden brown color, and doesn't seem to "squish" like wet shoes when you touch it. It's totally possible to get some good boning detail around a Glock, but their lines are unique. It takes some experimenting. I just made one recently for a High School buddy's G21, but like an idiot, I didn't take a picture of it. I'll see if he can send me a pic. BTW, I saw your thread, and I have to say, you're a lot farther along at your 7th holster than I was! Keep it up! Wes

I got a couple of 6-7 ounce shoulders. This piece, if my measurements are correct, is right at 7oz. Thanks for the kind comments. If you try it out, I'd be very interested to hear what you think. I'm fairly certain I can't be the only one to have experienced it.

I got it at SLC. I'm not really at a place where I can order several hides at a time directly from HO, but maybe someday. I'd still like to try Wickett & Craig also, but I don't know if anybody sells it in smaller quantities.

Hey folks, long-time lurker here. After reading so much about it, I recently bought some Hermann Oak leather to play with. The difference is amazing, especially after dealing with various import hides. Working with this stuff doesn't feel like work. I wish I would have tried it a long time ago. I've attached a picture of my first two projects made with it. To any others that haven't tried better leather due to cost, let me add my voice to the chorus: just do it. You'll thank yourself.

Thanks, guys! I really appreciate all of the help.

I hadn't thought of that. I don't actually own a hefty handle yet, but it's nice to have another option. Thanks! The outside of the socket area doesn't seem to be boogered up too badly. I don't know what he did with it to break it, but it appears to be made out of pot metal, so you never know.

My friend has a custom logo stamp that he wants me to use on a project, but the back plate (I have no idea if that is the correct terminology) is broken. I have learned from bitter experience not to attempt to use a broken tool, so I want to try to repair it, if possible. The back plate serves as a socket for a stamp handle, and appears to just be glued with epoxy to the actual stamp. I assume it is replaceable, but after several searches of the interwebs, I haven't been able to find any answers. The piece is marked "Craftool 8510," but that only brings up results for a discontinued stamp. Can anybody lead me in the right direction?