BHPshooter

It must be an aesthetic preference. I doubt there is any functional advantage to curved belt slots.

I remember watching that video quite a while ago. I always wondered what kind of sewing machine that was... I was curious about how he keeps the wood tools from burnishing the leather, also. I occasionally use the handle of an edger when molding, but I have to be careful to use a rolling motion. If I drag it across the leather, it will burnish, and then I end up cussing a lot when I try to get it to take dye.

I'm not sure what you mean by a "second mold piece." I assume you mean that there is an outer mold that is pressed against the outside of the holster, but that isn't the case. The concept is pretty simple, it just takes a lot of practice. The gun mold (or actual firearm) is inserted into the wet holster, and then the holster can be molded using a vacuum bag, hydraulic press, or by hand (or a combination thereof). Once you can see the shape of the gun, you outline the basic details of the firearm with a variety of tools. Here is one right out of the hydraulic press: And here it is after some additional hand molding and detail boning: Everyone does it differently, and there is a great deal of variation in how much detail people emphasize. My best advice is to try different things until you settle on your own style. Wes

Thanks, fellas! I think I'm going to order both and experiment a bit.

I believe Gum Traganth is what's usually used.

Has anyone ever used these? I know virtually nothing about them, and the descriptions on the Fiebing's website are a lot of marketing BS instead of useful information about the difference between the two. I should point out that I'm very happy with Resolene as my main finish, but there are some things I don't want to use Resolene on. For example, I don't use it on the concealment panel of my pocket holsters. Currently I give the concealment panel a couple of moderate applications of neatsfoot oil... But no matter how I try, I can't convince myself that neatsfoot oil is a "finish." Preservative, sure... but not finish. Would Tan-Kote or Bag-Kote work for something like this? I've never used either product. I would like something that provides a little bit more protection, but that won't make the leather stiff (and potentially squeaky) like Resolene does. And, to broaden the question, are there any other holster-related uses for Tan-Kote or Bag-Kote? I'm a total newbie when it comes to these, so feel free to educate me.

That is beautiful work. I love the color!

I had someone request that very thing. I declined.

Keep in mind, that's a guess based on dividing hours worked by holsters shipped. Now that I think of it, the number would be lower than that -- time working also includes updating my website, replying to customer emails, and talking to customers on the phone. Still work, but not actual holster construction.

I have used 5/6 and 6/7, and I think I prefer the 6/7.

I apologize, I've been trying to get some time to respond to this for a few days now. I've ordered several tools that should speed things up, including a couple of burnishers. You've got some really good points. I think I'm going to increase prices a bit in the near future. As far as what I want out of this, I want it to be a solid commercial enterprise for myself. I don't really envision (or want) any more than that. Not to get all Lifetime Movie Network on you guys, but I started doing this because it was a way to earn income that included the flexibility to work around my medical issues (migraine and cluster headaches). With the kind of hours I'm working, the flexibility has diminished somewhat, but even given that, it's still more flexible than any "real" job I've had. That sounds about right, I suppose. I haven't been keeping track of how much time I invest per piece, mainly because I don't work on one thing at a time, so it's difficult to track. I'm usually working on 2 to 4 holsters at a time. That way, while the glue is drying on one, I'm burnishing edges on the next one, and so on. I'm working with very limited space right now, so keeping batches that small keeps things from bottle-necking at any one stage.

I haven't found a mold yet... but I need one.

Last week, I finished 8 holsters, and I'm on track to finish 10 this week. Keep in mind, I have no clicker press or dies, so I'm cutting everything out by hand, and I'm also doing all of my edge slicking/burnishing by hand. I can tell you all about tendonitis. I'm looking into ways to speed up the edge work specifically -- I think that's my biggest time investment. I'm not sure I can afford one!

You're right, it is a great problem to have. I don't want to sound like I'm complaining about it, it's just an adjustment. I'll learn to adapt. I'd prefer not to have to hire employees, if possible. I've noticed a lot of guys have their wives help them out with things... I guess I need to look into getting a wife.

For those of you who are doing this as a business, how many hours are you working a week? I'm asking because I've been averaging 80 hours a week since the start of the year*, and it's beginning to take a toll. All that time bent over a workbench is starting to have negative effects on my neck and back. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy to be busy, and I'm thrilled that people seem to like my work, but it's getting difficult to maintain this pace. I extended my wait time a bit recently (I didn't want to do it, but something's got to give), so I'm hoping that will help make things a little more manageable. * I've only been tracking my exact hours for about 2 months, but my daily schedule hasn't changed since late December/early January.

The only thing I would add (that hasn't been mentioned already) is that your stitches are awfully close together. I don't know what size thread you're using, but I usually shoot for 5 stitches per inch. It would be worthwhile to invest in an edge groover, an overstitch wheel, and a good awl with a diamond-shaped blade. You'd be surprised how good those can make your stitching look.

I know it's been done -- I believe Milt Sparks used to offer a holster with a neoprene layer sewn on or between the back layers... In either case, those machines should do it, I would think.

That is well put: "Through the heartache of experience."

I understand the sentiment, but I've found that eventually the settings work themselves loose, and you have to adjust them some more anyway. I marked my tension knobs with a sharpie, which is how I have been able to see the tension knobs walking from time to time. However, the marks help me keep track of where the knobs should be. Nice work, too!

VERY nice work. Thanks for sharing!

I've got no real complaints with S point needles -- they give a nice, clean stitch -- I just really miss that zig-zag pattern that I used to get with a diamond-blade awl when hand stitching. I'd really like to give either LR or VR point needles a try. It's purely a question of aesthetics and personal whimsy. Thanks -- I'd love to know if you can find out.

JLS, can I ask where you've found needles with different points? I've been looking for LR point needles online with no luck... All I can find are S points.

Maybe that's the thing -- I'm using Nylon. I'll have to try Poly. My understanding (flawed though it may be) is that both knobs affect thread tension. I know that had to fiddle with both dials to get things right -- the top knob alone didn't do it. I also marked them with magic marker so that I can make sure exactly how much to change it when switching thread colors. I've noticed that the top knob tends to walk, so it needs to be watched fairly closely.

Tension could also be an issue. If it happened on a gradual curve and not a sharper angle, I kinda wonder if it isn't a tension issue. There is very little in the paperwork about all of that, and I had a hell of a time getting it adjusted until I ready a thread in the sewing machine section about recalibrating the tension. Another complication was the fact that I use both white and black thread, and both require different tension settings. You'll get it figured out, it will just take time. If I can do it, anybody can!

Cleanview, I have the same machine, and have dealt with some of the same issues, like having trouble getting the stitching on the back of the holster to look good when I'd back-stitch, and missing stitches on turns. I can't say I've completely solved the backstitching issue to my satisfaction, but I have figured out a work-around (which others have mentioned here). When a stitch ends where it began, I just sew over the first 2 or 3 stitches to lock the stitch. I've since changed thread and needle sizes, and I really should try get the reverse function figured out. You're right, though -- it was frustrating. For corners, I watch to make sure that the shuttle hook has caught the top thread before making the turn. I leave the bobbin cover off so that it's easier to see in there. Once you learn how high the needle rises before the shuttle hook catches the top thread, you won't have to stop an look so often... You'll just know.