oclack

Okay so this is what I've learned... Glue and trim pieces first. Then use groover. pass 1 needle through the leather at a time, NOT 2 at a time. use an overstitch wheel to make holes, followed by an awl to punch holes. NOT a chisel and maul. run the over stitch wheel over the stitches once complete. ditch the chisels Sounds simple enough. I'll give it all a try. Thanks for the help.

Okay, I've been poking around the site now for a while and have learned a ton, but I also have lots of questions. Like... Should I be using a stitching awl or stitching chisel? Until now, I've been using one of several chisels (6, 2 and 1 points) I got from Tandy on everything I do. I've been using my awl (I got from Tandy) just to widen holes as I stitch so I can pass two needles through at the same time. It pointed, but far from sharp like what I hear about Bob Douglas awls. What am I missing here? When should I be using an awl or the chisel. Getting Stitching Holes to Line Up? What's the trick here? I think I've experimented every which way and cant say I've found the "right" way yet. If I punch holes first, they're less likely to lineup perfectly. But If I glue first, then punch holes, I have to go back over it with the dye again. Using the groover make it even more complicated and difficult to get things lined up. Should I always use a groover? I understand the groovers are used to recess and protect stitching lines. I've been doing it on EVERYTHING regardless of how it will be used because I thought 'that's just how its done'. After reading through the forums, I'm not so sure. Should I stop using the groover? Why/when should I use an overstitch wheel? I've been using it to layout holes around corners and curves. Should I be using it for something else? If it helps... I primarily have been working with leather weights between 3oz and 9oz to make variety of large and small cases/bags, iPad sleeves, and wallets. I've been stitching everything hand using Tandy needles and what I think is 4oz waxed nylon thread. Any help and suggestions you can offer are appreciated. Thanks. - Odin

Can any of you help me find watch strap hardware - buckles, sprint pins and metal keepers (like on NATO straps)? I'm ready to start experimenting with crafting watch straps but can't find any of the needed hardware locally (Dallas area). Any online stores you'd recommend that don't require bulk orders?

I think I'll be using cooper rivets next time for sure. I'll be able to use fewer. I think I'll also change the side straps a bit to go complete through the bag and under to the other side. I think it will look better and offer more support. I not really in to the Stempunk thing, so I definitely want to steer away from that look. Thanks again for the feedback. It is appreciated.

I think its around 7oz. Next revision (i.e. when someone buys one from me) I'll try a 10oz. I like the rivets too, but next time I think I'll use copper rivets. Thanks! My wife is saying the same thing. Now if I can just start selling a few items.

I've been at it for about 5 weeks. After an impromptu stop at my local Tandy store, I thought I'd give it a go. So far I think I'm doing pretty good although I could take a bit more time to read. Still learning how to plan out my work before I get started. Though I'd take a moment to share and get some feedback from you season leather-crafters out there. Let me know what you think. Thanks. This is my Weekender Bag. Its the biggest project I've attempted so far. I'm fairly happy with the results though next time a round I'll do a lot different. Its all hand stitched. Didn't use any glue. Used quick rivets - next time I'll try copper. Here's and iPad sleeve i did... This is the very 1st peice I attempted the same night I stopped by the Tandy store. The form came out great, but the finish and tool not so good. This was my 3rd attempt at making some sort of brief type case. Its a lot better than the first, but a little narrow and too short to carry a laptop. A couple more iPad sleeves... etc.