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Guys (Trox, Shoepatcher and Wiz), Thank you so much for the info. I think I'm going to call Henderson Sewing in Alabama and see if I can track down a standard, narrow, smooth presser foot set and a standard single row feed dog and throat plate. I can get the servo motor here locally. It sounds like the Elka Variostop motor would be valuable to some, but for my needs a modern Servo would be better along with a second pedal to lift the presser feet together. Especially given that I don't have a control box to adjust it with. Hopefully Henderson will also have details on finding a guide system for this model too. I'm also going to make plans to rig up some sort of flatbed extension for it. I think doing wallets on the cylinder may be awkward. With all that done, I hope I have a machine that serves my needs well without having to break the bank.

So... I'm trying to wrap my head around this new machine I picked up two weeks ago. It's a Pfaff 335-H3 (I'm not sure what the "H3" designation represents). The Motor is a Efka Variostop. I'm not sure of the year on either, but it all looks to be original. So far with very little fuss I have it stitching nicely with a 22 Needle and 138 thread. My intent is to use it for wallets, totes, case, etc. So here are my questions... Efka Variospeed - Is this a positive or just a pain in the rear for a newbie? It's not too difficult to get it to run slow, but still I wonder if it would be better to just go ahead and get a new servo motor? I read in a desperate post that the variostop motor adds to the value significantly. Is that correct? Air Compressor - There's a weird air compressor type deal attached to the motor. I believe it controls the position of the pressed feet, but I don’t see how to adjust it (see next question). It even looks like I can hook up my larger compressor to it, but I’m not sure that’s a good idea. So... Is nematic hookup a positive thing or just more trouble for me to deal with?Only one Pedal - Pressing back on the pedal raises the raises the center presser foot and needle, but the outter feet remain down. I have to use the left handle to raise both feet and release the materials. Is this correct? Is there a way to adjust this function? Accessories… Roller Guide to be Specific - I understood there to be lots of different accessories for these machines, but I’m at a loss with finding them. Anyone know where I can get a roller guide for this model? Since I’m VERY new to using a sewing machine, the guide will help tremendously. New Pressor Feet - These presser feet have teeth, and it marks the oil tanned leather I've run through it so far. Should/can I buy new smooth feet or is it just easier to file them down? If I file the teeth down, is there anything I should be aware of? Value - I hoping you all can make me feel better about my purchase… What would you estimate the value of this machine to be as is with the Variostop motor? I think I got a great deal on it, but think it could really be a stunning machine with a little attention. The local industrial machine shop quoted me about $250 to have a new servo motor installed, and the machine tuned. Is it worth the cash? Pictures of the machine are below. As always… Thanks for the help and feedback! This is a great resource.

I'm trying to source true made in the U.S.A. brass hardware for a series of bags I'm making. - swivel snaps - magnetic snap (i.e. buttons) - strap buckles - conway buckles - dee-rings - square loops Any idea where I can find these items from a US manufacture?

Thanks Ron! I really appreciate the help and the interest in my work.

Andrew, Thanks a lot. Those explanations were very help. It makes sense once you have an example. I think I will get a left-toe press or foot. About the Pfaff 335... Would you mind sharing a pic of your flat top? What's the smallest thread size for that machine? How's it handle light weight leathers (3-4oz) and canvas? Any perceived issues? Thanks again.

I have a SewPro Mini 441 machine that I'm still trying to get up to speed on. I do a variety of work - passport covers, wallets, belts and straps, journal covers, medium and heavy bags. I'm also looking into getting a Pfaff 345 and and/or a flatbed walking foot machine or a Single 30-15 machine. The second or third machine would be for wallets, totes, various cases and linings/interiors. You can see my work here http://www.instagram.com/odinleather. I definitely welcome your feedback on choice of machines for these purposes. Would a that Pfaff 345 with some sort of flat top attachement work for wallets and totes or should I stick with a true flatbed like a 30-15. I like using 138 and 207 thread weights. Regarding pressor feet and plates... I don't quite understand yet the pros and cons that the different pressor feet and plate combinations for the 441 machine offer. My 441 machine came with a center-toe pressor foot that is closed (the thread passes through it). It seems some center-toes are open - is this a benefit? Outer pressor foot has a double toe (left and right side). Whats the benefit of changing these pressor feet? Does using a left or right toe offer benefits that I don't understand? Also... How does one choose the right plate for a project? What unique benefits does a holster plate, or stirrup plate offer that a regular plate does not. As always ALL your feedback is welcome and appreciated.

I'm definitely interested but not local. If you don't find a local buyer let me know and we could possibly work out the shipping issues. Thanks. odinleather@gmail.com

You can just call me a gluten for punishment… I’m still trying to figure out the 441 machine I purchased a couple of week ago and I already looking at grabbing anther machine. The 441 was purchased with the intent of doing satchels, belts and thicker cases. For smaller items - wallets, passport covers, journal and note pad covers - given what I read here I think a different machine would be best. I have some ideas for a few canvas and leather items I’d like to try out. Would the 31-15 machine be ideal? I’m thinking thread weight would be 138 or smaller? Leather thickness probably not over 4-5 oz. I’ve come across a Singer 31-15 recently services, with table and new digital servo motor for $750. Is this a reasonable price? Do I need a speed reducer, or will the servo motor be sufficient? What do you think - money well spent? or keep looking? - Odin

Wizcraft, I knew you'd have the answer. That said, I'm a bit more remedial... Can you tell me how to adjust those two variables? I'm lacking a manual to go along with my specific machine, so I'm just figuring things out as I go with a lot of help from you guys. I also noticed that pressor feet were not perfectly aligned. I'm not sure if this is an issue, so I took a picture (see below). Can they or should they be aligned better? Could this be the issue? It seems that with with every stitch the material shifts to the left a few millimeters.

I can't seem to get my 441 to feed material straight. the material is making a clockwise rotation. While practicing on a belt strip, I had to really fight to keep it stitching straight. I lost the battle a few times. I also noticed that the stitches were so tight, that it put a sever curve int he belt - no way I could send that to a customer. Could this be a tension issue? How should I adjust it?

Thanks Wizcraft! I will check the bobbin and the winder again.

Guys, Things were working well, until I had to change out the bobbin, now I'm noticing that the material is not moving straight forward, but instead is turning slightly clockwise. I have to fight to keep the stitch line straight. I also hear a little click noise. Not sure if they're related.

Thanks Wizcrafts! I got, thought it doesn't seem it winding fully or evenly.

Any sewing machine pros out there in the Dallas area that would be willing to come by and help me out with my new 441 - I'm in Grapevine area. I'm having a hard time figuring things out. I can offer gas money, lunch and a big thank you.

Thanks you for the help. I'll watch each of the videos. I think I'll also stop back by Bogle-Greenwell for a little one on one. Now… If I can just figure out how to wind this bobbin.

I just picked up my very first sewing machine. I've been hand stitching everything (satchels, bags, wallets, belts, cases, etc.) for the last 2 years and decided it was time to step up. I bought from a local dealer - Bogle-Greenwell. I was able to do some test runs with it on some belt scraps. Its stitching well, but I have noticed a couple of things... 1) The feed dogs (on bottom) are leaving teeth marks on the rear of my material 2) The presser feet (on top) are also leaving marks (smoother than whats's happening on the bottom, but marks none the less) 3) The stitching on the bottom side is clean - there are no loops, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the top. I apologize if the vocabulary is a little off - I'm not yet up to speed on all the sewing maching terminology yet... But I'll get there. If any of your pros could point me in a good direction to fixing these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you can refer me to any good reference materials - books, videos, etc. - on how to use this machine that would help too. Honestly, while I figured out how to thread the needle, I don't even understand how to wind the bobbin or replace it yet. So... Your help is definitely needed. Thanks.

Very nice!

So, can you provide any info on pricing and turn around times?

Friends, Like many others I'm working toward picking up my first leather sewing machine. I was fortunate to learn about Bogle-Greenwell Machine Company in Grand Prairie, Texas. All they sell is machinery for the leather industry. Each machine (including used ones) come with a warrantee. He (Mr Bogle) claims they're equivalent in every way to the COBRA machines. They've been in business for 60+ years and are close by (about 20 minutes away) which should make getting help and/or service convenient. There are three machines types of machines: - industrial flatbed - industial cylinder arm - harness machine w/ cylinder arm I'll see if I can ascertain the exact model numbers. Each is on a nice table. All have reverse and they'll install a slow-speed servo motor on either on them for a few bucks more. My concerns/question: - Has anyone used Bogle-Greenwell (BGMC) before? - Can I get too much machine? For example, can a stitch a small wallet on a heavy leather harness machine? - For the most flexibility, should I go with a cylinder arm machine over a flatbed? - what's the difference, between a harness machine versus a walking-foot machine? Why choose one over the other? My projects require a range of leather weights from 2-10oz and include its like: - small goods: iphone covers, journal covers, wallets, ipad cases, pouches, etc - wearables: belts, guitar straps, etc. - bags: portfolios, totes, satchels and briefcases So, what do you think? What if I decided to just go with a Cobra machine? Which model works best for me? I'm sure this has all be covered somewhere before, but some times it can be difficult to find an answer by piecing together all the various comments and advise from all the posts. Your help is appreciated? You can see my work here if youj'd like to see what I'm talking about - http://instagram.com/odinleather

It seems that Tiger/Ritza thread made by the Julius Koch company is widely regarded as some of the best material for hand stitching. I have to agree so far given the small samples I've been able to find and use - really like it. That Tandy thread I was using pales in comparison. All that said... Does any know where to buy this from in the United States? In small or large quantities? I can't find one source, let alone a reliable source, for Tiger/Ritza thread here. I've only been able to order it as small samples from the UK and shipping cost make that not a sustainable option. If not for those small samples, I'd think the stuff was mythical - since its about as hard to find as a unicorn. I'd even be willing to buy larger or industrial spools if that's all I can find. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated.

Nice! I like it. I just have a simple question... What's the piece mounted on? Looks like a piece of place film. Its that to keep it from stretching too much? I've tried tape (box tape and blue painters tape) and while it helps keep the leather from stretching while I'm tooling, its a pain to remove and ruins the finish on the flesh side. Any suggestions?

Thanks [Dwight] and [Particle] for the suggestions. I wasn't cutting it at all. I'll try the 50/50 solution and a second coat.

I'm having a problem with applying a resolene finish to some of my pieces. I keep getting streaks in the finish regardless of how I apply it - dauber, towel, etc. I don't have a spray gun so that not an option. Do any of you use this product? How do you apply it and prevent streaking? Also, is it possible to buff out the streaks? How would you do that? I'd hate to scrap what would otherwise be a nice piece.

Well that all makes me feel a bit better.... I've been using a 6 prong chisel to punch all my work. I do think I'll have to invest in a good awl. Even though I apply wax tot my chisels, Its a pain to get it out of anything more than a 1/4 inch of thicker leather - maybe not so bad with 4 prongs though. Seems a good awl would be a better tool for this.