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bushpilotmexico

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Posts posted by bushpilotmexico

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Recently bought a Vevor servo motor on Amazon to replace the clutch motor on my Pfaff 138  sewing machine. Straight forward installation but I guess my Cobra 4 had me spoiled. By that I mean after Googling on speed control seems like Dave at the Leather Factory modifies the servo before sale with a simple addition to the optical speed control this allows me to walk through (sew) an item a stitch at a time or speed up for a straight run.

    Not knowing that my Cobra was modified and assuming this was normal for a servo I was surprised to find out that the Vevor, even set for 100 stitches per minute wouldn't allow me to slow it down on start and sew one stitch at a time. I found a video on YouTube showing the modification that can be done to fool the optical sensor with a small piece of paper.

    Question is, and I haven't been able to contact Vevor, is their speed control optical or magnetic? I know someone will say that I should just open the control and look inside but I'm always leery to open something and have parts spring out all over. If it's magnetic then my only option would be a speed reducer attached to the servo. I have been watching the DIY'ers using pillow bearings and various size pullies but I don't have a shop for welding, fabricating etc.

    If the Vevor isn't optical and I can't use the "fool the sensor with paper trick" would anyone know where I can buy the two pully reducer and bearings ready to mount? I can't make a mount from steel but could make one out of wood to attach to the table.

     

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Does thread make a difference? 90% of my sewing with my Cobra 4 is using black or brown 277/207 bonded nylon. When I switch to white 277/207 that I bought from the Leather Factory the bobbin thread comes to the top. I can decrease top tension and increase bobbin tension but no luck. I can then replace white with brown 277/207 and it sews perfectly.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Just finished this small cross body bag. I got the pattern from http://www.leathercraftpattern.com/leather-downloadable-patterns/Leather-bag-patterns/leather-bag-pattern-vegetable-tanned-leather-bag-patterns-cross-body-bag-pattern-bag-sewing-pattern-PDF-instant-download-ACC-05

    for $6.99. It was downloadable and I printed it out on my Canon printer. As always being the first one it has the Persian flaw and was a learning lesson. I had to sew most of it by hand with the exception of the straps, the Cobra 4 made easy work of those.

     

    small bag5 (1 of 1).jpg

    small bag3 (1 of 1).jpg

    56fb4c96c201f_smallbag5(1of1).thumb.jpg.

    56fb4cb7f3f0c_smallbag3(1of1).thumb.jpg.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Really nice work! I like the bag style. Reminds me of a nice saddle bag. What does the interior look like? Is it lined?

    Tom

    Hi Tom,

    The bag is made of 7/8 oz leather except for the gusset which is 2/3 oz and all pieces including the gusset are lined with 2/3 oz leather.

    Lyman had his article in the Sept/Oct issue of the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal and said that he got the idea for the concealed carry bag from the 2015 May/June issue where Bob Klenda wrote about instructions for a "saddlebag style purse".

    Lyman modified the design to make it look more masculine and deepened it to accommodate his S&W model 686. Inside the purse sewn onto the back panel is a piece of 6-8 oz leather shaped to take the belt clip which he sews onto the back of the holster designed for his S&W.

    Living in Arizona he writes that he prefers to carry his pistol in the bag rather than concealed on his hip.. Personally I own a Glock Model 17 so I intend to make a holster to fit it.

    Cliff

  13. Posted · Report reply

    The late fall issue of the Leather Crafters Journal had an article written by Lyman Avery and an enclosed pattern for his concealed carry bag.

    Finished it up last night and generally pleased with the way it turned out. Every project is a learning experience. I intended to sew the complete bag with my Cobra 4 but as I started to piece it together realized that I would have to hand sew the gusset to the front and back panels.

    Not overly pleased with how the antiquing turned out but the general finish seemed to work out OK.

    concealed%20carry7%201%20of%201.jpg

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Shhoooot.. did I just get embarrassed? :blush: That's lookin' purdy good - but does that work okay with the bullets "backwards" ? Personal preference maybe --

    Still, these designs are MEANT to be customized to suit you, so have at 'er ;)

    Thanks for bringing that to my attention guess I fliped the pattern backwards when I drew up the double pouch design.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I've never had any real problem with wrinkles in my lined holsters.

    I lay down both pieces on a flat surface, . . . cover both with a coat of Weldwood contact cement, . . . put em together, . . . roll em with the rolling pin or something similar, . . . fold as needed, . . . cement the edges, . . . sand, edge, sew.

    I use a Tippmann Boss machine.

    I then wet form the holster to the weapon, . . . voila, . . . when it's dry, . . . it's done.

    May God bless,

    Dwight

    Hi Dwight,

    I am lining with 2/3 oz and I basically use the same technique as you by cementing then when flat using a roller. I guess the wrinkles are because when I fold, sew and then open the holster the inside radius is less than the outer and the excess lining leather has to go somewhere because it's being compressed on the short radius and voila when I look inside I see wrinkles.

    Now to be honest I'm using 8/9 oz for the holster body and the last two I made I was able to open them up without wet forming, just by squeezing.

    The one I am making now I will wet form to see if that solves the wrinkle problem. Using Jim Simmons technique you won't see a wrinkle because as you cement on the curve starting at the toe of the holster all the excess lining material is moved to the outside and is trimmed later.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Jim Simmons, who is a great guy, told me that he only wet formed the very first holster he made. Jim's technique is to fasten the 2/3 oz liner by sections. First he fastens the liner to the holster just cemented down the center line which is around a 1' width. Then he rolls the leather of the holster body and fastens the liner against the curve, first one side and then the other. This gives the holster it's form and also prevents wrinkling when the holster is sewed.

    This doesn't present a problem when hand sewing but it's a horse of a different color when machine sewing because of the curves involved..

    The last holster i made I just cemented the liner to the holster body and went ahead and machine sewed, luckily I didn't have to wet form but yes the wrinkles appeared in the liner.

    Would anyone have any suggestions I'm definitely getting the hang of my Cobra 4 and with my arthritic fingers don't want to have to go back to hand sewing.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Real nice,

    Can i ask,

    What presser foot and plate are you using? I recently got a 4 and only had the cash for the standard package, so now trying to figure out what accessories i will need.

    Merry Christmas

    I did buy the Premium package but am only using the right or left presser foot and the plate that came with the machine. To be honest as a newbie I haven't used any of the other plates. I don't know if the slotted plate is the one that came with the machine?

    • Holster Plate $156*
    • Stirrup Plate $156*
    • Slotted Plate $85*
    • Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150*

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Well, antique paste is acrylic, about the same as Resolene or Tan-Kote. Now you are putting Resolene on top of that, being the same, acrylic dissolves acrylic so you have to let the first coat dry completely. Also in an acrylic on acrylic application, thin coats are an absolute necessity. After the antique does it's job, a little judicious brushing might be in order before spraying a light coat of Resolene, or apply a thin coat with a rag. Thin coats.

    Test before you invest.

    Art

    Thanks Art

    Cliff

  25. Posted · Report reply

    So, the only way to really know is to do a practice piece. That being said when mixing coats, the "hotter" one has to be on the bottom and dry before applying the "less hotter" one. Read hotter as more volatile. If you put acrylic on the bottom, the lacquer will dissolve it somewhat. If you put lacquer on the bottom and let it dry, the acrylic should not dissolve it. THIS IS IN THEORY, because there are so many formulations and green formulations that you can't know without testing it.

    Art

    Thanks Art, I did try a test piece and it seemed to work but I guess was kind of wondering about how it would last long term, if there would be a reaction. That test piece had some Fiebings antique paste over some basket weave stamping. I guess I didn't wait long enough for the paste to dry. When I applied the Resolene it must have dissolved some of the paste as I could see it turning a little British Tan.

    How long would you recommend that I should allow the paste to dry before top coating it, I'm kind of thinking now about 24 hours?

    Thx

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