vonkas

Dear Trox, with the help of hints from this forum and your service manual I have become sufficiently capable adjusting my 345. There are a few items still being slightly mysterious. One is about the check spring. The manual says '7mm' stroke. It would be good if I understood what exactly this spring influences. The other thing that slightly mystifies me is that occasionally the bobbin thread tension appears to be too loose even though tension screw is all the way in (trying to fix it). I keep adjusting various parameters and eventually it comes right but I don't understand what's going on. Note: currently my work is repairing motorcycle leather gear and making vinyl seat covers.

because it's flatbed it will be of limited use for your purpose. Pfaff 345 is the one you need.

Assuming that everything is adjusted by the book, then either your needle is the wrong type (right side thread grove instead of left, wrong length or position of scarf or not moved home in clamp due to gunk) or the thread isn't matched to the needle or it;s simply mounted incorrectly. This is of course assuming that all other parts of the machine are the correct ones for the model and machine tolerances are to spec (not worn). Sometimes a spec of rust can introduce enough friction to throw things out. All this information is in the "Factory Adjustment Manual" without which you have only a slim chance to get it right. For example, many machines have adjustable timing, the relation between the needle stroke and the hook position. This can go out of sync if the machine stalls through overload. Usually the correct positions of components are not marked and are observed visually during the adjustment process. Again the manual will tell you how to check and adjust the timing. An experienced sewing machine repair parson can do this without book, as all machines work by similar principles. I would like to help more but I do not have the books for your machine. Just like me with my first machine, you might "cut your teeth" with your Singer. If you get it right you will have learned a great deal and you'll be able to judge the condition when you buy your next machine. So don't give up unless you learn that someone has stuffed your machine up with non factory parts that you cannot replace.

To start with, your machine needs to be adjusted to factory specs. With most of these kind of problems people miss this important point. Buying a used machine, which potentially is maladjusted and without printed instructions (factory adjustment manual), is the same as a machine with missing parts. After my first expensive lesson, I subsequently have bought machines cheap because people have given up working with them, but I knew that I could get a manual. Adjusting is not trivial even with instructions. It is utterly hopeless without. Period. By the way, I have had great cooperation from Pfaff for example in obtaining manuals. Of course there are plenty of sources to be found online as well.

In your case I would advise to mail order some good needles and threads and experiment (don't need lubed thread for thin leathers but likely a cutting point needle). If you look at the Schmetz site <http://www.schmetzneedles.com/industrial-needles/> you can obtain ideas about what will fit your purpose. Research (Google) anything you desire. I started from scratch and educated myself to the point where I could put zips into motorbike jackets and even reconditioned my own machines (Pfaff 335 & 345 bought cheap). Jim V

best budget machine - old and slightly tired Pfaff 345 or 335. You can recondition these with cheap chinese clone parts. I sold a good 335, bought a heap, spent a hundred bucks on bits and came out $1000 ahead with a very good machine and some knowledge about it's workings.

"a good horse has no color" - applies here. Age matters not, state of service and features should determine your decision.