samcolt45

Thanks Chiefjason. I appreciate the advice. Bob

Thanks Dwight and JLA A modified Avenger-style is the holster I was describing earlier. The problem I'm trying to figure out is how to emulate such a design with a 25-degree, butt-forward can't, a low-cut front and a sweat guard---preferably so only the gun is angled and the pistol is angled. Bob

Though I’ve been a forum member for a while the demands of my job, a professional gunwriter for the NRA, keeps me from leatherworking as much as I’d like. The interest to make holsters was instilled on me be an uncle, and when he passed away I inherited most of his leatherworking tools. Another reason I’d like to get back into making holster is because being wheelchair bound I’ve noticed that strong-side holsters with a standard FBI cant is insignificant for someone who’s constantly seated. Unfortunately, while I’ve made a few holsters by using Al Stohlman’s “How to Make Holsters” as a guide, the designs are somewhat dated, and the section of the book where he covers cant angle, holster ride and how to plot out your stitch lines extremely vague. Using a goniometer, I think a 25-degree forward angle is my sweet spot for me. So, now the question becomes how to factor it into my holster design. (I have no interest in trying crossdraw designs at this time.) Whereas most would suggest stitching the belt channel to allow the holster to hang from the belt at the appropriate angle, why not set the pistol at the appropriate angle prior to tracing it out? It seems to me that the end look much better because only the pistol would hang be oriented at an angle on the belt and not the holster. I saw an instructional video where a guy designed a pancake-style holster by first drawing two horizontal lines across the paper, indicating his belt loops. Then he traced the pistol and proceeded to fill in the lines accordingly. For my purposes, I’d prefer to steer clear of the two-piece pancake design for the moment (primarily due to the enormous amount of space they take up on the belt) and to concentrate on those designs that utilize either a single or double thickness of folded leather. Style wise, I’m leaning toward something resembling a Bruce Nelson Professional #1 a 1911 Commander (rear loop/hidden front loop, etc), but adding a few twists: namely a ample sweat guard and adding low-cut in the front a la’ the classic Bianchi speed scabbard. Some time back, I managed to make a holster similar to what I’m describing, but screwed up when I plotted my stitching lines because I tried doing it after the holster had been dyed and glued. Maybe it’s just me, but Al Stohlman’s ¾-inch border strikes for the stitch line strikes me as too much for the design I have in mind. Any guidance/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bob Boyd

Ok, so I came across this thread a little late. I'm making a holster for my father and coated the interior with GT and foloowed up with a glass burnisher prior to making the fold, gluing and stitching. Can this be corrected with a sanding the interior, or applying the soap via a homemade canvas-erapped drum chucked up in my Foredom? Samcolt45

Thanks Mike, Yeah, I've followed the instructions in Stohman's book and have made a lot of patterns sine we conversed last. For some reason though, these angles are giving me a fit. Bob

Hi josh, As a matter of fact I'm familiar with that book and I do have a copy. Following that method, I'be made several patterns, but the angles have me quite stumped. Bob

Hi all, I have an S.D. Myres model 38 holster I'm attempting to duplicate for my father as a Christmas gift. The rear of the holster has a unique, stepped-down or wavy spine that spans from the rearward-most portion of the trigger guard to the end of the tip of the ejector rod. I've attached photos of other holsters to serve as examples, though if necessary I can photograph mine. I'd like to know how replicate this delineation on my own. For me, the solution involved making color Xerox copies the front of my Myres holster and enlarging them to I had something I could cut out and imcorporate into my pattern. But, I know there's got to be a better, more practical way to do it. Bob Boyd AKA Samcolt45

I've been following this awesome and informative thread for quite a while. My burnished edges are noticeably better. I primarily use Hidepounder's method with a Foredom Moro tool and wood burnishers. Some members reference using a rub stick. Is this before, during or after burnishing? Samcolt45

Excellent work. I'm currently working on a holster based on a Myres pattern, tool. Thanks for sharing. Bob

My thoughts as well. Thanks Denster.

A while back, upon leaning I was taking up holster making again,a friend of mine who makes holsters as a hobby suggested I case my leather overnight before cutting out my pattern. While I understand the significance of casing leather that's destined to be tooled. But, when it comes to making a regulat non-tooled holster, I can't help but wonder if it's really necessary. As such, I'd welcome your thoughts on the matter. Thanks in advance. Samcolt45

I've been studying this thread off and on for a few weeks now. Thanks to eveyone who offered their insight. Refamiliarimg myself with the craft after more than 20 years hasn't been easy, and it would be significantly more so without such guidance. One question I have refers to the reference to those who use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and parafin. How do you mix, prepare and apply it? It it best to heat it, or when applied separately to the holster? Bob I've been studying this thread off and on for a few weeks now. Thanks to eveyone who offered their insight. Refamiliarimg myself with the craft after more than 20 years hasn't been easy, and it would be significantly more so without such guidance. One question I have refers to the reference to those who use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and parafin. How do you mix, prepare and apply it? It it best to heat it, or when applied separately to the holster? Bob

My homemade slide for my 2-inch, custom Colt Fitz Special chambered in .45 Colt. Even in my wheelchair, the 25-degree forward rake works provides easy and quick access. Samcolt45

SJ, I was beginning to think I was the only per here interest in precise cant angles. Although my interest centers around being wheelchair bound. For me, a strong side holster with a 15-degree FBI cant isn't enough. I'm still experimenting to find my magic number. So far, I can say with certainty the sweet spot for me is between 20 and 25 degrees. However, although I'm merely telling you what has worked for me, the optimum carry angle involves many factors, such as what type of pistol the holster is for: make, model, barrel length, how and wher you wish to position it on your belt, your build and weight, whether you are constantly standing or seated throughout your daily routine. It might sound foolish, but, just like buying shoes, the best carry angle is the one that not only feels right but meets your needs, too. Samcolt45

When making a holster that you don't intend on finishing, is it advisable/necessary to apply a cleal-coat sealant, such as Resolene? Bob Boyd Samcolt45