tibee

I know this is super old but any updates on the pre-neutralized vinegaroon experiment?

To anybody reading this with the same issue, here is the same topic a few years back with great infos which I will give a shot before I decide to take a sledge hammer to my machine.

Thanks for giving it a shot Jimi So it seems like it's going similarly to mine where you have to tighten the tension nearly all the way to get a proper stitch on 5mm+ leather so I suppose that's a bit reassuring but you're not getting little loops like I am so that's a problem with my machine. I appreciate you doing the tests btw. Is that normal though? I've been told that when you pull by hand the top/bottom tensions should be similar or a little tighter on top but in order to get an okay stitch on 5mm+ I have to tighten all the way and when I pull, it's really tight to the point where the needle will bend. anyways my issue now is just the stupid little loops here and there. I did a test with #thinner thread and 110 needle but not much has changed. I'll try messing with the check spring but I wish I could find a manual for this exact machine because it might be a little different from a classic 335. I might end up buying a new hook+ bobbin case out of desperation with the hopes that this is causing the irregular stitch

You guys might be on to something. I didn't have a 140 but I tried 150 and it's just too tight of a fit in the slot in the picture ( don't know the name), so I figure 140 would be pretty close to the same and the 130 I'm already using is probably already a pretty narrow fit so maybe that's what is causing it. #69 thread in the bottom didn't change anything though. I'm going to try #69 top and bottom with a 110 needle and see what happens. I appreciate the help guys. thank you, I'll keep you guys posted

the antibacklash spring raises it quite a bit but I don't feel like it creates significantly more tension when I put it in the machine. I Beleive the G stand for great capacity bobbin which could explain why it seems to stick out so much. it rolls smoothly when I pull =( The picture below are lines of stitches with no change in tension or anything whatsoever, so it seems that the bottom material affect the stitch heavily. 3mm veg tanned with resined flesh side, + thick canvas. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top piece: 2 layers of 3 mm veg tanned ( 6mm total) Bottom piece: 3mm veg tanned + 2mm oil tanned. (5mm total) so thinner leather gives better results and the ones with fabric or soft leather on the bottom give better results although there are still some loops here and there but maybe that will give someone an idea as to wth is going on. I live in a very isolated part of the country in France so finding someone to take a look is difficult so any idea is appreciated. Thanks for the help

You're right, according to this https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1088170/Pfaff-335.html?page=25#manual , although that didn't change my problem unfortunately =(. I am also threading the bobbin according to that same manual. it seems good ( do I have to change that every time I change thickness? ) I'm trying to understand the mechanism, is this right?: the hook catches the top thread, pulls it over the bobbin ( at this point, that thread is super taught ) and then at 3/4 around it'll jump out of that hook and get under the o pposing hook and is released from there as it passes under the foot. here is a pic of my bobbin, it comes out quite a bit because it is pushed up by the little springs at the bottom of the bobbin case, but it does stick out either way. the other pictures I took wile sewing without the motor by hand, and I noticed my bottom thread jumps out gets to where it is instead of in the track. I didn't seem like that's what was causing my loops, but it could be a symptom of the same problem.

I'm not sure what you mean by little finger, do you mean bobbin tension spring? Maybe there is something catching the bottom thread occasionally and creating extra tension but I have no idea what it could be because its not like it travels that much right?

Thanks Kgg backlash spring still has spring so I guess that means it's good? Could it have anything to do with the check spring, that's the only thing I haven't messed with..or could it be something about how the bobbin is wound? It seems like the random loops are less frequent on thinner and softer leather if that helps I have a 100 year old 29k that gives me a good stitch in 1- 6 mm leather without any adjustments whatsoever but this beast of a german engineering is giving me so much trouble its almost comical.

Thanks Kgg , I'll try that. Any idea for the the random bottom loop? Also here is the top thread path.

Hello, I bought a vintage pfaff 335G-h3 and I'm having issues getting a proper bottom stitch, especially on thick veg tanned. I Reckon this machine was made for medium thickness chrome tanned leather but bought it because I though't id be able to handle anything from 1-6 mm veg tanned It's threaded properly and I've dismantled and cleaned all where the threads travel. in the picture ( its the bottom stitch) I'm using #92 on Nm130/21 LR needle on 3 mm veg + fabric. ( tried Nm 120/19 and results are the same) Also, as I go up in thickness of leather (5mm and above), I have to crank my top tension nearly to the max. I don't know much about sewing machines but it seems weird and I don't understand why I have to do that so if anyone could elucidate me on that I would much appreciate it. Also I have to change a bunch of screws which are completely mangled, does anyone know if I get regular 335 parts it will fit? I appreciate any help because I've been struggling for the past week, Thanks! Tib

Hello, Didn't find a thread section so here I am. I'm making heavy duty leather/canvas backpacks and I need heavy duty thread but it needs to be biodegradable. I am looking for size 92/tex 90 and 138/135 so linen, cotton or whatever else exists. Any tips?

Hello, I am parting with my techsew 2750 because I am moving to France. what type of machine can do the same job or maybe a bit less because 2750 is a little bit overkill for what I do. I have been looking at the pfaff 335, does anyone know how thick veg tanned it can sew? how thick thread it can take? I like to use 92 size thread. Thank you!

Thanks for the quick responses Just to clarify. No matter how well i burnish using hidepounders technique, or add super sheen, it well always get fuzzy eventually right ?? If so I might end up stitching 2 straps flesh to flesh , stitch and edge paint... ALOT more work but I feel bad selling a bag that gets fuzzy edges after a few weeks. Thank you Tib

Hello, So here is my dilemma. I love burnishing, the rounded look of it, the feel and process, but I have noticed the fibers get loose fairly quickly ( especially a burnished edge of a bag strap ) and then its just ugly. My process is: edging , fieblings paint, gum trag, dremel burnisher, resolene, bees wax, dremel burnisher... in that order The second option is edge painting. It does take more time but I am getting smooth results with fenice edge paint but I'm afraid that using edge paint on a bridle leather strap will eventually make the paint crack since veg tanned stretches quite a bit. Cracked edge paint is even uglier than a half fuzzy burnished edge. so my questions are: Will edge paint hold on a veg tanned leather strap that will probably experience some stretch and alot of contact. Is my burnishing technique wrong that it makes edges go fuzzy after some weeks of use. And on a somewhat unrelated topic, I'm using W&C black bridle leather with pasted flesh side for the straps. The flesh side ( which is directly against the shoulder) frays... the fibers get loose and since its not struck through, its beige fibers that pop up and its pretty ugly. I was thinking that maybe getting non pasted flesh side Black bridle could solve that but it could also be that the one skin I have been using for these straps was a bit dry as i bought it in Toronto during winter, from a place that doesn't have humidity control, and who knows how long it stayed there. THANKS!

O hey thanks Jonasbo, that's what Im looking for.

I already buy from wickett and craig but they have only have brownish colours... so far only Buttero and pergamena leather has colourful veg tanned... I mean blues, greens yellows, reds

So I've been trying to find sources for colourful veg tanned leather... So far I have found buttero leather which i think is entirely veg tanned and Pergamena in New York has nice colours too but their leather is made for bookbinding and is not stiff enough for what i want to make. Does anyone have any other sources?

Hey, Thanks so much for all the input guys... I'm looking for 135x16 LR in small quantities though (10/20 needles).. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk has what I'm looking for and it turns out campbell randall will have some in about 10 days so I might just wait for that depending on shipping price and all that. While were on the topic, I also recently got a hold of a pfaff 491 and I dont know the needle system it uses. Anyone know? Thanks!

Hi, I have a techsew 2750 and Im looking to get some 135x16 LR to fit it in size #19, 20 , 21 . Does anyone have a source for those.. preferably in North America, Ideally in Toronto. Thanks!

sooo, did anyone ever find these? solid brass strap loops

Hello all, Does anyone know of any tanneries left in Canada? I'm specifically looking for veg tanned, but it would be interesting to know even if chrome tanned only. Side quest: I'm also looking for a weaving mills in Canada that make canvas. it seems like there is absolutely no industries left in canada except petrol, wood, stones and wheat.

can a glossy acrylic resolene finish be flexible? can I dye a piece a piece of leather black, apply numerous layers acrylic resolene for a very high gloss finish and still have that piece of leather not "crimple" when it bends?

sounds good.. thank you!

Thank you gump, it sounds cutlery rivets are a no then... Chicago screws would work if I could find a way for them to be permanent... I have made a backpack with cutlery rivets and they would slowly unscrew and eventually fall out. Maybe I could put some kind of glue in them before screwing in which case, yes that could work for me. I will do some research to see if a permanent chicago screws method has been discussed already. thank you both

Hello, I have been using solid brass rivets ( 2 part with washer kind) but the 12# and 9# are super hard to cut and peen and my wrist is suffering.. Can anyone tell me how reliable are solid brass cutlery rivets such as these http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40386&cat=3,41306,41327 I know they wont be as tough as solid rivets but could they hold the straps on a back pack or bag? or are they not meant for that kind of strain. Thank you! Tb