WolfteverGunleather

Beautiful rig!

Red bear and car guy, thanks for the positive feedback. My edge finishing largely follows the Bob Parks (hide pounder) method. Even the edges with a Dremel tool (220 grit) Bevel the edges Hand sand with 400 grit Hand sand with 600 grit Stitch Wet mold While still wet from molding, burnish with glycerin saddle soap and denim When almost dry, burnish with more saddle soap and wooden slicker When dry, dye edges Touch up spots with 600 and 800 grit Touch up dye Reburnish touched up spots Wax with parrafin and wooden slicker

JLS and Capt, thanks for the positive comments. I ordered the drum dyed black 8/10 oz utility grade Tooling/Holster/Carving directly from Wickett and Craig. It's currently listed on their website at $7.74 per ft. which is what I paid for it. (plus shipping). I was a little concerned about ordering the utility grade, but that's all they had on hand at the time. Dave McCracken is who I talked to, and he took good care of me. I'm very pleased.

This is the first holster I've made using Wickett and Craig leather after using Hermann Oak exclusively for a number of years. I'm very impressed with the Wickett and Craig! It cut smoothly, molded nicely, has a great finish, and the edges burnished beautifully. The picture quality is not that great, but I just snapped these with my phone. I will definitely be trying more sides of W & C.

Thanks Rick.

Thanks Dwight and Madmax. I appreciate the leads.

Hey Bodean. Thanks for the input. I've actually bought loops for the last two bags and took the leather off like you suggested. But at $4.79 each I'd rather not keep doing that.

Thanks Thornton and Dwight for your replies. I've looked all over the Internet with no success. Interesting idea about the bender. Not sure about flattening and drilling, but still worth looking into. Thanks.

Does anyone know where I can buy just the steel portion of a steel hammer loop for a carpenter's tool belt and pouches? I've started getting some requests for tool belts and pouches, and the only sources I've found (retail or wholesale) for the steel hammer loops include the leather backing as well as the steel. I'd like to buy just the steel portion and rivet it to my own belt loop or pouch.

Hi. I just stumbled across your post. Since it's an old post, you may not have any of this anymore, but was curious if you still have the creasing rollers.

Kwalk, Looks like I'll be passing on the Campbell machine, but thanks for the info. Phil

Wiz, Thanks so much for the thorough response and great advice! I really appreciate you taking the time and sharing your knowledge. Phil

After many years of hand stitching with some use of a Tippmann Boss, I'm preparing to buy a powered sewing machine. I've spent many weeks, possibly months, researching my options and narrowing my choices, and would welcome some answers to some specific questions I have. First, some context: My focus is on holsters and belts, primarily concealment and sporting holsters and heavy dress/casual belts for carry. I'm not looking for one machine to do everything (garments, wallets, cases, holsters, bags, belts). I realize any machine has its "sweet spot" and I'm wanting to focus on what I do the most of. The range would be two layers of 6/7 oz. veg tan on the low end to 4 layers of 9/10 oz. veg tan on the high end. At this point I'm looking primarily at a Cobra class 4, a Cowboy CB 4500, or a Campbell lockstitch. (1) In the opinion of those of you on with the appropriate experience, is the Campbell worth over twice as much $ in terms of stitch appearance, stitch quality, machine durability, changeover/setup difficulty, or any other factor? (2) Is the learning curve on a Campbell machine too steep for a novice sewing machine operator? (3) Is there a significant difference in changeover/setup complexity or difficulty for a one machine shop between the Campbell vs. the Cobra/Cowboy? (4) How big an issue is it that the Campbell machine does not reverse to lock a seam? Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge and experience!