WolfteverGunleather

If you are interested, please make an offer. I’m negotiable.

Like new Scharffix bench-top paring/skiving machine. Excellent condition, very lightly used. Located in southeast Tennessee. Pickup or will ship at customer expense. $250

Well done! It looks very nice. Do you have pictures of the inside you can share?

I received the set I ordered for my Cowboy cb3200, and installed it this morning. The fit is precise, and the finish is well done. I keep this machine set up with 138 thread for lighter work on softer and thinner leather than I do on my Cobra 4, and I’ve had trouble with the edges of my work getting sucked through the slot of my standard plate on this machine. I just ran a test with some soft chrome tanned leather, and it went very well. I believe this is going to solve my problem. I’m very pleased.

Beautifully done!

Very nice!

Hello Kwaaked, and welcome! Fellow Tennessean from the Chattanooga area here. My wife has family in St. Joe, Loretto, and Lawrenceburg, so I’m familiar with the area. Welcome aboard!

Very nicely done. I enjoy working with the Sully. It’s beautiful leather, and your design and workmanship are spot on.

Very nice!

Beautifully done!

I have 14 genuine American alligator skins for sale. All of these skins were professionally tanned by and purchased from American Tanning and Leather in Griffin, GA, and they have the CITES tags attached. I will be happy to send closeup pictures and/or detailed condition information to anyone interested in any particular skins. These are available for shipment to US addresses only in states where trade in alligator skins is legal. Buyer pays the shipping for any purchase under $600. I will pay the shipping for any skin or combination of skins totaling $600 or more. I’m located in southeast Tennessee, and would be happy to arrange a personal inspection or pickup. Here is a listing of the skins. Size Grade Color/finish Price 73cm 4/5 Peanut glazed $350 24cm 4/5 Peanut glazed $100 57cm 2/3 Chocolate matte $500 54cm 3/4 Beltrami brown matte $400 52cm 3/4 Chocolate matte $400 47cm 2/3 Chocolate millennium $450 54cm 2/3 Beltrami brown matte $500 48cm 2/3 Kralle brown matte $475 62cm 4/5 Peanut glazed $325 48cm 4/5 Jamocha glazed $300 49cm 4/5 Sport rust glazed $300 54cm 2/3 Beltrami brown matte $500 51cm 3/4 Chocolate matte $400 33cm 1/2 Black millennium $250

@chiefjason Thank you very much! I’ll contact them.

Anyone know where I can find a blue gun or other molding prop for a classic model 29 S & W 44 magnum with a 4” barrel? I’ve tried my regular sources, with no luck. I would appreciate any help. Phil

Very nice! Well done.

@JayEhl Thanks

@DustinSmith Thank you.

@DustinSmith Very nice! What secrets can you share about how you keep your basketweave lined up so beautifully?

The reason for lining with veg tan is that the chromium salts in chrome tanned leather are harmful to the finish of the firearm over time, so my personal standard is that I never line a holster with anything except veg tan. But I realize there are different opinions on the issue and many holsters exist that are lined with non veg tan leather. I don’t know where you are located, but do you know if there are other leather workers in your vicinity that might be able to share a small piece of thin veg tan?

@JayEhl @YinTx @fredk @chuck123wapati @Alaisiagae Thank you for your comments.

@YinTx This one was part of the Bible.

Made this bible cover for my granddaughter. Frame is Horween Essex in natural 5/5.5 ounce, inlay is kidskin in robin's egg blue, lined with veg tan horse front. Hand stitched using .8 Tiger thread. She loves it. There appears to be a difference in color between the front and back, but there's not. I took the front picture, then got interrupted by one of my dogs. When I came back a few minutes later and took a picture of the back, apparently the sunlight was different. I didn't notice it till later on after I had already given her the cover.

I decided to make myself a new strop for my round knives. Something to work very well and produce a razor edge, but also something to look nice and be proud of. Two pieces of black walnut glued up into a block 2” x 3 1/2” x 16”, with a piece of hard jacked horse butt glued to the top. These pictures are before applying any honing compound.

@judgebc They are called russet horsehide strips. You can contact The Tannery Row on their online store and order them.

I bought my Cobra 4 from Leather Machine Company, and I was very pleased with the setup and service. When I ordered it, they asked me what size thread I intended to use primarily. They installed the correct size needle, set up the tension for the preferred thread, sewed a sample piece, and included it in my shipment. Once I got the machine, I had a couple of questions, so I picked up the phone and called them and they were very helpful. I had the machine up and running well very quickly thanks to their service. When I was shopping for machines, I had lots of questions. I posted them on this site, and Wiz jumped in with some very helpful advice which helped me make what I consider to be a good decision. Being a newbie on heavy stitching machines at the time, I was very appreciative of the advice I got from Wiz and the excellent service I got from Steve at LMC. I would not have wanted to make an expensive mistake by trying to import a machine directly. If I were highly experienced in that area, I might be willing to explore direct importing, but I certainly don't consider Wizcrafts' advice to be rubbish, and I greatly appreciate the value that a reputable dealer like LMC adds to this process.

@caressofsteel I don't claim to be an expert, but I'll share my opinion based on my experience having made many holsters and other products, and having worked at a vegetable tannery for several years many years ago. I normally buy backs only since the bellies are worthless to me. When I receive a back, I'll measure 60" from the butt toward the head and make a cut across the back from backbone to belly edge, dividing the back into a bend and a shoulder. Then I make a perfectly straight cut along the backbone of the bend, giving me a straight edge for stripping out belts. The bend area is preferred for belts due to being denser and less stretchy than the shoulder. Then I'll use the shoulder area first for holsters and sheaths. The bend area works fine for holsters and sheaths, but I prefer to save it for belts and large pieces if I'm doing a project that requires it. If I do use the bend area for something other than belts, I'll cut lower (closer to the belly edge) to preserve my straight edge at the backbone for belts. That approach works for me. I'm sure there are plenty of other opinions out there. Best of luck on your holster making!