soccerdad

Uwe, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I'm familiar with the Cash song, and I used to play Cotten's Freight Train (but with thumb, three fingers and guitar right-side-up). But it had been a few replies since the company in question was mentioned, so I didn't put two and two together on Wiz's remark. I'll pay closer attention next time now that I know the drill. Speaking of NickOSewing, I'm not sure I've seen them advertising on this site. If that sounds right to others, why do you think?

You lost me, Wiz.

It's great to get your ideas, JamesR. I didn't think you were claiming too much at all. This is just a place to talk about how we do things. Thanks for the idea and the photos. Much appreciated. Dale

Sorry if I'm being dense, but I'm not yet familiar what you mean by "pinned at the top..." I'm not seeing anything different ....

Would love to read the thread. Where can I find it?

For most of the cross body bags and small accessories I make, I use 1/8". I have gone in a little further -- maybe 3/16" -- for a full-sized bag using thick leather. I don't have Valerie Michael's "Leatherworking Handbook" in front of me, but I think that's more or less what she specifies. That book and Stohlman's works are my go-to references.

If you cut the wings off the inside flap, do you see light?

JamesR, that's interesting. What are your reasons for doing it this way? Pros? Cons? What is the construction process? Thanks! Dale

I am a hand-stitcher shopping for a first machine, and the marking issue is big for me, too. In response to phone and forum queries, representatives of Artisan and Techsew have said machines can be set up so as not to mark. I have not spoken to Cobra. Some on this forum say marking is inevitable but can be minimized. Others recommend using leathers that do not mark easily. Still others like the marks. I offer this tangle of gathered feedback not to judge anyone else and not as an expert (obviously!) but as one more person trying to figure this out. It must be possible. How does Frank Clegg do it, for instance?

I'm sure the VBs are good, too. A thought for the future. D

Thanks, Glenn!

I ordered 12-prong and 2-prong irons from Amy Roke. After I got their email address, ordering was easy. The delivery took a few weeks, partly in production, partly in transit. Simply put, I think they are fantastic. The irons punch all the way through. I'd get more without hesitation. I think Peter Nitz uses these now, and that's a strong recommendation as well.

Quite right 25b. My apologies to Nigel. The "Ian" was my mistake (yes, probably an unconscious Atkinson reference). The "E" in Ermitage was an auto-correct glitch. In any case, check out Armitage Leather on YouTube for the series. Great guy who offers lots of useful information.

If you have not done so already, I highly recommend watching the series of videos on pricking irons by Armitage Leather on Youtube. The craftsman, Ian Ermitage, offers a free, downloadable summary of the several irons he evaluated. This includes some inexpensive ones that work quite well. Armitage offers the best evaluation of irons that I've seen. Perhaps others can offer more ideas. Good luck.

Glenn, Thanks for the rundown on the hockey goalie sewing work and needles. Very interesting and helpful. Do you have a rule of thumb for when to change out titanium vs. non-titanium needles? Thanks again, Dale

My pleasure ... would love to know about your dealings with NickOSewing. I'm thinking of dealing with them here in Missouri. They've got an outlet in St. Louis now. Best of luck to you, Dale

Could it be: Nick-O Sewing Machine Co., Inc. 7745 Hwy 76 Stanton, TN 38069 Phone 1-800-526-4256 or (731)-779-9963 Fax (731)-779-9965

Darren, I stand uncorrected. I think you were going for YHL. : ) Eglideride, we hope to see what you come up with on the 3200.

Congrats on the 3200 and especially on MHW.

Sean, Thanks for a really interesting post. Really helpful to see all this side-by-side. Speaking of Blanchard ... I wonder who else has tried Amy Roke irons, which look to have teeth of similar shape as Blanchard but with a couple of key differences. They are made to punch all the way though the leather, and they are less expensive than Blanchard irons. I bought a 12-tooth and 2-tooth (size #8) in October and have found them to be absolutely terrific in use (they look cool, too). Other sizes and numbers of teeth are available. The holes are clean and maintain consistent size as you drive them though leather. I saw first them on the web somewhere -- possibly on the Peter Nitz Instagram account (http://www.instagram24.com/atelierpeternitz/p/1100197022223202417_239190925?page=1102144427680234455_239190925). I paid $236, inclusive of shipping from China, for the two irons, which arrived about three weeks after ordering. Some photos of the irons: http://world.taobao.com/item/525594177341.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.jzA2AB#detail I saw first them on the web -- possibly on the Peter Nitz Instagram account: http://www.instagram24.com/atelierpeternitz/p/1100197022223202417_239190925?page=1102144427680234455_239190925 I ordered via email: Atelier Amy Roke <atelieramyroke@hotmail.com>

Glenn, Could you talk about the qualities of the best needles when it comes to the factory work? What sort of sewing is this? And why does titanium seem to improve the needles? I'm reading up in advance of my first machine and I'm curious about what makes a good needle. Other replies welcome, too, of course. Thanks, Dale

Thanks to everyone who contributed an response to my query here. There's a good chance I'll get a machine this winter. Will let you know how it goes sewing finished veg tan now and then.

Dwight, Apologies if my note was unclear. I apply glue, then stitch when the glue has cured. I work hard to make strong and attractive edges. If the piece is lined, I glue all of both surfaces. Best, Dale

I am a hand-stitcher. After trying three or four types of contact cement, I now use Ever Tack, a white glue I get at Springfield Leather. You might ring them; I got some advice from Kevin on glue once.The best advice I’ve gotten on this is to use as thin a layer of glue as possible at the edges, as long as its enough that the pieces will bond properly. This may be easier to do if you thin the glue or contact cement a little. I use far less glue now than when I started — typically two very thin coats, depending on the leather. Once the glue is on the edges, you can hit it with a fan of some sort, including a hair dryer, to speed the drying to the point that you will join the edges. After the edges are joined, I don’t know of anything to make the curing go faster, though the thinner layer of glue goes faster, I think. Perhaps others will have tricks for this. The main thing I’ve learned in dealing with this problem is to plan projects so I have other things to do while the glue cures, as Tinker also mentioned. It's the same issue for finishes. I’d be curious to know from others if machine sewing differs on any of these points.

Alex, It turns out the iron is 13 spi with in-line (not slanted) teeth. I find no maker's mark, I'm afraid. The tool looks to be quite old, and I picked it up inexpensively, hoping it might serve. Sorry that's not more helpful. Dale