soccerdad

Picked up an old pricking iron that I think is about 12 spi in anticipation of making gloves someday. I practiced on some 2-3 oz. veg (too thick, but the thinnest I had) just to see what a seam would look like. I sewed it inside-out, and it looked terrific when I turned it around to the show side. But I've not made a full project using this iron. Does the VB tool pierce thin leather, or just mark? What are you working on?

I"ve practiced on it and used it on a couple of veg-tan bags. It works well in this relatively limited experiencel. The only issue has been that dragging veg-tan through it sometimes marks the show side. I fixed this by covering the roller with a thin suede. Perhaps it would not mark all leathers??

I got tired of waiting around and bought mine new from the following website (http://www.bookbindersworkshop.com/product_p/sch001.htm). The current price is $375.00. The owner, Mr. Mechling, I think, was great to deal with. He answered questions, gave me measurements, etc. Gross and fine adjustments for thickness and angle are very easy on the SF. It appears to be a far more refined tool than the one on the other thread people have been talking about, FWIW.

How much did you pay, including shipping?

Uwe, Another great post. Thank you. I raised the machine-marks question in a recent post on this site. The upshot of what I've learned so far is that some manufacturer-sellers say machines don't have to mark (specifically Artisan and Techsew), even on finished veg tan. Other respondents seemed to think some degree of marking is inevitable or nearly so. I look at machine-sewn leather items in stores and do not see machine marks, though most all that material is likely chromium tanned. I'm just trying to sort this out ... what's your take on the inevitability of machine marks? I'd love to hear more from others, as well. Thanks, Dale

That's terrific. Thanks for posting. Helps this newbie understand what's happening inside a machine.

Jeff, what details can you tell us about the machine? Photos? Thanks.

Sorry ... it's new enough, I think, that they are just checking it out, and I suppose that's why it's not on the site. If you email them, perhaps they'd send a sample. Apologies if I led you down a dead end on that one. However, I've got another idea I meant to mention before. Campbell-Randall and some other places are selling Fenice, or I think C-R calls it Italian Edge Paint. It's great stuff, and the people at C-R are happy to talk you through best ways to use it over the phone. Great service from them. I get the "plus" version, which is thickest. You also need the brass-tipped roller tool to apply it. You put on thick coats, especially the first couple, and sand between coats. That puts a substantial amount of material on the edge in a hurry. It's a high-quality product, in my opinion. FYI, these are not dyes. They are, I suppose, edge paints. I think the Italian stuff is latex-based. Not sure about the RML paint,

Please advise this hand-stitcher who is contemplating his first machine for sewing roughly from 4 oz up to 3/8" (give or take) while making wallets, crossbody bags, briefcases, etc. I've talked to Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew and Artisan, and I gather from my reading on this site that those makers (and others) likely offer machines of similar quality and capacities. I'm looking for a compound-feed, walking-foot, cylinder-arm machine with servo motor, reverse, and speed reducer. FYI, Artisan says their current servo does not require a reducer. Beyond all that, a couple of issues are important to me: I don't want the machine to leave marks. Only one maker promised their product would not mark dyed and finished vegetable tanned leather. That was Jerry at Artisan, who mentioned smooth feet and feed dog, plus another thing he was coy about. All the manufacturers seemed to think the problem would be much reduced using many chromed-tanned leathers. Does this ring true for everyone? What machines mark least or not at all? What characteristics do I need to look for? Adjustments? Also, I need a machine that, possibly using a stirrup plate, can sew 1/8" from the edge on squared gussets of the sort you might find on old-school veg tan briefcases and the like. I'm talking about firm leather that could bend some without leaving "stretch marks" but could not bend a lot. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I recently got a sample of beautiful chocolate-brown edge paint from Rocky Mountain Leather. It's something new they've been trying out. I like it a lot. If you have heating tools, you can get it to flow a bit and cover small flaws. I like it. Good luck.

Good luck. Let us know what you find out.

I'm not an expert on this topic, but I'll pass along my experience: I think Fenice is a good product, especially when applied as thickly as possible using one of the brass roller tools made for this purpose, then sanded between coats to shape the edge and remove flaws. In my experience, only low temperatures and numerous fairly quick strokes of the glazing tool heat Fenice so it flows enough to correct small flaws. Higher temperatures blister the finish. In both scenarios, it has changed color. Sometimes it has been a small change that looks OK after a coat of wax. In general, however, I've been happiest with the color of Fenice without heat. At times, I've shaped the edge finish with a glazing tool, sanded lightly and reapplied a final coat that dried without flaws. Campbell-Randall sells this stuff, and they are very helpful on the phone. You might ring them to talk it over. I'm also experimenting with a different edge finish from RML. It's has a waxy feel and seems to flow easier than Fenice to correct flaws. The chocolate brown color (beautiful!) I've tried also changes color with heat, but adding wax (I've tried beeswax and parrafin) seems to help. In a few experiments, I like this one best without heat after the final coat, as with Fenice. If there's somebody out there who is an expert at using the fileteuse manuelle and glazing edges, please enlighten us! Maybe somebody at RML and Fine Leatherworking would be able and willing to produce and post tutorials. Hope so. I, for one, would patronize a business that helps customers learn these things.

BigMatt, If you are out there, I could use a hand. I picked up the F2 tip and plugged it into Wall Lenk voltage regulator (probably not the right term) and fried the wire -- same as I think you did early on. Would you be willing to repair it for me? I'm happy to pay, of course. Dale

BigMatt, I'm giving the Janik-filetuse setup a shot. Thanks for the ideas. And thanks to all other contributors, as well. D

That's most helpful, Fanninator. Nice stitching, too. What's the thread? Tor, I just ordered the samples of Giardini.

Thanks, Tor, for the Giardini suggestion. I will follow-up on that for sure. Anything that could hasten a high-quality finish is worth a look. Like Thefanninator, I use Fenice with and without heat, depending on circumstances. It's a big step up from the Edge Kote I started with. I like the possibility of using a crease and so will try one or two filetuse tips, as long as Big Matt's affordable heat source pans out, and I'm sure it will. Thanks to all contributors for this excellent thread. Fanninator, what is your take on the best tip for my stitch line at 3mm from the edge? I see people using the F2. What is your setup? Do you stitch just beyond the crease? Thanks, Dale

Hey Big Matt, Thanks very much for pioneering this method of heating filet use tips. I've been wanting to get into this for ages, but the combination of high cost and zero instructions held me back. What's the latest on your work with this? I'm wondering which tip to get first. I typically mark a stitch line 1/8" (or about 3mm) from the edge. Is that the right distance for the F2, which I read lays down a crease 1.5mm from the edge. Then it looks like the stitch line sits just inside? Deos this sound right? Any help along this line would be appreciated. D

Hiho, is the creaser still for sale? If so, could we chat by phone?

Hi Geneva, Yes, I'd like to buy the tool from you. How shall I pay you? Thanks! Dale

Hi Geneva, This the plough still for sale? Thanks, Dale

Bro Tim, the dia looks like about 1.5 mm.

Thanks to responders for all the good ideas. It looks like competition is stiffer than I would have guessed, hence the secrecy. LeeValley sells a small chuck that might work. It's probably bigger than ideal, but at least the shank is small enough to fit into a palm awl haft easily. Thanks again, everyone.

Can anyone point me toward manufacturers of awl chucks? I'd like to turn my own hafts, but I cannot find any of the kinds I see on retail awls. Thanks.

I'd like to turn my own awl hafts but cannot find chucks of the kind I see on manufactured awls. Can anyone point me to a chuck supplier? Thanks.